The visionary conservation of this wild region’s mountains, valleys, meadows, waterways and towns nurtures spectacular avian life – and avid birdwatchers
© Birding in Extremadura
In the leafy slopes of Extremadura’s high mountains, in its glacial valleys through which crystalline rivers flow, and across its golden dehesas (wooded meadows) rolling on to the distant horizon, silence prevails. Despite its rich natural and cultural heritage, this kaleidoscopic region, nestled between the cork oak groves and vineyards of Portugal and the windmills of La Mancha, goes largely unnoticed – by humans, that is.
Seen through a bird’s eyes, though, the diverse landscapes and well-preserved ecosystems of Cáceres and Badajoz – Spain’s two largest provinces, which comprise Extremadura – are highly desirable for the 385 avian species recorded here. Indeed, the region has become a sanctuary for species rarely seen in the Iberian Peninsula, such as the Spanish imperial eagle, cinereous vulture, black stork and black-tailed godwit.
© Extremadura Tourist Board
Almost 75% of its territory is classified as Important Bird Areas, including 71 Special Protection Areas for birds (SPAs) covering over 26% of the region. In addition, EU-financed nature conservation and management projects of the LIFE Programme have contributed to the recovery of various endangered bird species in the Iberian Peninsula by improving their habitats in Extremadura. For example, the LIFE Iberian Agrosteppes project succeeded in bringing together nature conservationists, livestock breeders and farmers to safeguard steppe birds.
More work is needed, though, particularly for species dependent on agricultural environments. In recent years, little bustard numbers have declined by over 60% in La Serena and Sierras Periféricas, Extremadura’s largest SPA.
Already, though, the region has led the way in protecting various bird habitats. Recognising that some species now prefer to nest in human constructions – cathedrals and churches, or spaces in other buildings – Extremadura became the first European region to designate as SPAs several of its urban centres hosting nesting colonies of lesser kestrel, one of Spain’s smallest breeding birds of prey.
Add the Villuercas-Ibores-Jara UNESCO Global Geopark, three Biosphere Reserves – Monfragüe, Tajo Internacional and La Siberia – and the Protected Landscapes of Monte Valcorchero and Castañar Gallego, and it’s clear why Extremadura is the birding paradise of southern Europe.
© Extremadura Tourist Board
© Extremadura Tourist Board
Venture into the dense chestnut and oak forests among the southern foothills of the imposing Sierra de Gredos, in Extremadura’s far north-east, and you’ll be serenaded by the murmur of water and the whisper of wind through the treetops mingling with the melodious songs of blackcaps, chiffchaffs and nuthatches.
Descend from those picturesque highlands into the valleys of La Vera, Jerte and Ambroz to hear the calls of bluethroats and golden orioles (so rarely seen in the UK), and to spot goshawks, European honey-buzzards, Thekla’s larks and great cormorants.
Around Plasencia, further to the south, you might spot vultures, buzzards and eagles flying over the area’s characteristic cork oaks and glittering granite formations. This is where I grew up, and I remember with nostalgia the croaking of the graceful white storks perched on their nests in the cathedral complex, and the swooping flight of lesser kestrels above the Plaza de San Vicente Ferrer.
The Tagus River snakes around the rocky outcrops of Monfragüe National Park, some 30km south of Plasencia. Standing at the lofty Salto del Gitano lookout in the far west of the park, you might spot Egyptian and griffon vultures, red kites and eagle owls soaring over the Peña Falcón crag. The sight of these majestic birds of prey circling above the 300m cliff, or perching to feed their chicks, is one of Extremadura’s most unforgettable images.
Just east of Monfragüe National Park stretches the Arrocampo reservoir, created in the late 1980s to provide cooling water. It now hosts numerous species that relish its warm waters and nest among its abundant bulrushes. It’s home to Extremadura’s largest populations of purple swamphen, black-crowned night heron and purple heron – indeed, eight species of heron nest here.
The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town of Cáceres makes a memorable base from which to head out birding in the surrounding plains, known as the Llanos de Cáceres, and across the wider province.
La Siberia Biosphere Reserve, in north-east Badajoz province, encompasses vast steppes, dehesas, mountains, Mediterranean forest and irrigated areas. It also features five reservoirs, including La Serena – Spain’s largest – and Orellana, a Ramsar site hosting a large colony of gull-billed tern and an estimated 65,000 wintering waterfowl each year. Despite gradual changes in Extremadura’s steppe systems, they remain refuges for pin-tailed and black-bellied sandgrouse, singing calandra larks, nightjars, stone-curlews and bombastic great bustards.
Mérida – another city boasting World Heritage-listed archaeological sites – is considered one of Spain’s finest settings for urban birding. From the Roman Bridge over the Guadiana River you can watch swallows, penduline tits, European bee-eaters, black- winged kites, and graceful Iberian magpies flying over the ninth-century Moorish Alcazaba.
The capital of Extremadura is also a fine base for exploring the ancient Roman reservoirs of Proserpina and Cornalvo or the rocky Sierra Grande de Hornachos mountains, and for birdwatching in Zafra and quaint villages among the vineyards and olive groves towards the Andalusian border.
© Extremadura Tourist Board
Cáceres, Plasencia, Mérida and Badajoz are all accessible by bus or train from Madrid. Buses also run direct from Lisbon to Badajoz, Mérida and Cáceres. Travelling by public transport from cities to villages can be challenging. Ask at bus stations or tourist offices for local timetables, or check the websites of regional transport companies such as Cevesa and Leda; another handy website providing information on multiple transport providers is movelia.es/en. Carry cash to pay for services.
© Extremadura Tourist Board
Visit in spring or summer to enjoy diverse local festivals celebrating the history, culture and exuberant nature of Extremadura.
The Cherry Blossom Festival, held in the villages of the Jerte Valley from late March to early April, marks the arrival of these delicate blooms with exhibitions, medieval markets, open-air celebrations and tasting sessions.
Martes Mayor, held in Plasencia on the first Tuesday in August, reputedly dates back to the 12th century. Celebrations begin on the Monday night with parades and music. Then, on the Tuesday, the walled centre is transformed into a boisterous medieval market showcasing the best of the area’s local produce, particularly vegetables and fruits, while locals dance to the music of the flute and the tambourine.
© Extremadura Tourist Board
The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).
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