Saxony’s Palaces, Castles and River Kingdoms
A Journey Through the Elbe Valley
Words by Julia Hammond
Authentic, culturally rich and rooted in tradition, Saxony is a captivating destination at any time of year. Lively cities like Dresden and Leipzig act as gateways to delightful rural villages where warm hospitality is a given. Travel sustainably as you explore the region’s breathtaking landscapes via an extensive public transport network.
Discover Dresden
Getting there and away couldn’t be easier. Well-connected Dresden is the ideal place to kick off your Saxony adventure. Catch the sleeper train from Brussels or Amsterdam; it runs three days a week and arrives in the German city in time for breakfast. Arm yourself with a Dresden Welcome Card for free transport on city trams and buses; day passes for the wider Upper Elbe region are also available, making train travel an affordable and convenient option. The region’s cable cars, funiculars and narrow-gauge railways require separate tickets.
In Dresden, get your bearings from the viewing deck of Frauenkirche, whose Baroque domes dominate the city skyline. Amble along Brühl´s Terrace, often referred to as the Balcony of Europe. Check out the Stallhof, located within Dresden Royal Palace in the heart of the Old Town. This long courtyard was initially laid out in the 16th century; during Advent, it hosts a fairytale Christmas market. Explore Dresden Zwinger, whose museums and art galleries help give this Saxon city its nickname: the Florence of the Elbe. It’s as much a work of art in itself as the myriad treasures that are housed within its walls. Round off your stay with tickets for a performance at Semperoper.
Where next?
Culture and Craftsmanship
In Saxony, artisanal culture and craftsmanship are lived, rather than staged for the benefit of tourists. Here, innovation and originality are ingrained. Artisanal crafts feature prominently in many of Saxony’s historic towns. For instance, the region’s music heritage spawns an artistic legacy; Vogtland – in particular Markneukirchen, Schöneck and Klingenthal – is home to skilled makers fashioning wooden and brass instruments by hand, perpetuating a tradition that can be traced back 350 years. Throughout the Ore Mountains, you’ll encounter woodturners and carvers practising their craft. Seiffen’s distinctive animals borne from simple wooden rings, angels with dotted wings and Christmassy Nutcracker figurines all make attractive souvenirs. Meanwhile, Glashütte has been a centre for watchmaking since 1878; call in to the German Clocks and Watches Museum to learn more about the patience and precision it requires to craft these timepieces.
In Plauen, the focus is on lace and embroidery; explore the history of the wider Vogtland textile industry at the Thread Factory. Most famous of all, trace Meissen’s relationship with fine china back to the early 18th century; then, Elector of Saxony Augustus the Strong pushed alchemist Johann Böttger to create hard-paste porcelain in Europe for the first time. You can appreciate its exceptional quality during a factory visit.
Architecture through time
Follow your own “palaces and castles” trail along the Elbe Valley.
Moritzburg Castle
Reachable by heritage steam train from Dresden, at Moritzburg, form your own opinion of Augustus the Strong’s ambitious transformation of a 16th century hunting lodge into a lavish moated castle surrounded by parkland. Guided tours unlock the secrets of Moritzburg and Little Pheasant Castle, including the fascinating story behind the Feather Room.
Wackerbarth Castle
This destination winery works hard to promote Saxon viticulture and share traditions that stretch back 800 years. Nose around the Baroque palace and the vineyards that surround it, sign up for a wine tasting or time your visit to coincide with one of the many events and festivals Schloss Wackerbarth hosts each year.
Pillnitz Palace
Immerse yourself in centuries-old scandal: Augustus the Strong gifted Pillnitz to his mistress before banishing her to a fortress prison. With her gone, he added the Bergpalais and Wasserpalais, a triumph of chinoiserie and extravagant design. The palace and its extensive parkland became a summer retreat for the Saxon court.
Weesenstein Castle
Weesenstein Castle perches on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Müglitztal. Grab an audio headset and learn about the history of the building and life at court. Inside the castle chapel, admire the angels and their instruments that decorate the organ. Check online listings for details of music festivals and concerts during your stay.
Fortress Königstein
A cluster of more than 50 buildings, above and below ground, makes a visit to this hilltop fortress a must-do. They span centuries of history, during which this place was variously a military barracks, POW camp and hospital. Peer 152.5m down to the bottom of a 16th century well, the deepest in Saxony.
Meissen Old Town
Two buildings dominate Meissen’s Old Town: a Gothic cathedral whose spires are blackened with age and the whitewashed walls of Albrechtsburg Castle. It’s best known, however, for the porcelain factory which was founded here in 1709. In the tangle of lanes and courtyards beneath, discover Meissen’s many cafés, wine bars and craft shops.
Pirna Old Town
Pirna’s Altstadt is centred on its well-preserved marketplace, painted by Canaletto) in the mid-18th century. It’s a pleasure to mooch around and admire the gables and oriel windows that characterise the town’s architecture; highlights include the Rathaus, St Marien’s Church and the Canaletto-Haus. The 15th century Sonnenstein Castle will appeal to those intrigued by dark tourism.
Out in nature
Saxon Switzerland National Park
In striking Saxon Switzerland National Park, seek out the table mountain that features on its logo: the Lilienstein. Set foot on the Bastei Brücke, flanked by sandstone pinnacles like fat fingers. Beyond these popular landmarks, discover craggy rock formations and steep-sided gorges; enjoy the birdsong that filters through sylvan copses. Ride the Kirnitzschtal railway through one of the area’s prettiest valleys to visit the Lichtenhain waterfall. Seeking an injection of culture? Grab tickets for a performance at the Felsenbühne Rathen Open Air Theatre.
Steamboats on the river
Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt’s nine heritage paddle steamers ply the River Elbe throughout the warmer months, covering the stretch of waterway between Seusslitz near Meissen and the spa town of Bad Schandau in Saxon Switzerland. The season kicks off in May with a waterborne parade. During Advent, seasonal sailings capitalise on views of wintry landscapes and Christmas lights. Alternatively, paddle a kayak or inflatable boat between Bad Schandau, Königstein and Pirna. Picnic in riverside meadows and spot abundant birdlife as you drink in the bucolic scene.
Hiking paths
Lace up your boots and immerse yourself in nature through the region’s hiking paths. In Saxon Switzerland, dip in to the Malerweg (Painters’ Way) which winds for 116 glorious kilometres in eight stages from the village of Liebethal to the border with Bohemia. Along the way, encounter moss-covered boulders, forgotten ruins, magnificent rock arches and panoramas of distant hills draped in mist. Equally captivating is the Vogtland Panorama Trail, a 225km loop that begins and ends at the spectacular Göltzschtal Viaduct; highlights include the Saxon spa towns of Bad Elster and Bad Brambach.
The cycling routes
Cover more ground on two wheels, especially if you hire an e-bike. Pedal part of the Elbe Cycle Route, a 1,200km long trail that connects Czechia to the North Sea; views of Saxony’s sandstone mountains won’t disappoint. Follow the Leipzig Neuseenland (New Lakeland) cycle paths through an area once blighted by lignite mining. Foodies will love the Obstland route which meanders through Saxony’s largest fruit-growing region, while the Musikantenradweg links several music-themed museums.
An authentic taste of Saxony
Oenophiles will find Saxony irresistible. This part of Germany has a small but significant winegrowing region, boasting a history of viticulture stretching back eight centuries. The result of this unique terroir is an interesting mix of whites such as Riesling, Müller-Thurgau and Traminer but also, surprisingly perhaps, a very palatable Pinot Noir. Yields in this northerly location are too small to make exports viable, but that’s all the more reason to drink on location. Hug the banks of the Elbe as you follow the 55km long Sächsischer Weinwanderweg (Saxon Wine Trail) from winery to winery between Pirna and Meissen as you pick a favourite. Time your visit for the last weekend in August when buses are laid on during the Open Days of Saxon Wineries event or for one of the September wine festivals that are hosted by winegrowers in places like Radebeul and Meissen.
Regional food specialities are just as enticing, as Saxony has a rich food heritage. Cold winters encourage the consumption of hearty and filling dishes such as tripe-heavy Sächsische Flecke, or Sauerbraten a German pot roast. The Saxon version sees meat marinated in dark beer, and gingerbread spice used for the sauce. When in Leipzig, try Allerei, a vegetable dish that can be served as a main or a side. Even pasta can be classed as local, as you’ll find out if you visit Riesa.
However it’s sweet treats that will probably make the biggest impression. While in Dresden, grab a slice of Eierschecke (a layered cake, cheesecake and custard confection); watch it being prepared in the city’s Taschenbergpalais. Don’t pass up the chance to get your hands on a Meissner Fummel at the Ziegler Bakery – the only place that makes them – though be careful how you handle this fragile pastry. In the 18th century, the pastries were used as an alcohol test for couriers transporting fragile Meissen porcelain: they carried a wafer-thin, air-filled pastry intact from Meissen to Dresden to prove their sobriety.
Salivate over Leipziger Lerchen, a combination of shortcrust pastry, marzipan and jam, or sample Quarkkäulchen (fried patties formed of mashed potato and soft cheese).
