Exploring Shekhawati, India’s largest open-air art gallery

Long before Mumbai staked its place as India’s financial capital, and Gurgaon sprouted its mirrored towers and tech parks, a quiet semi-desert region in northern Rajasthan had already laid the foundations for one of the most powerful mercantile communities
in the subcontinent’s history: Shekhawati.

The region’s name literally translates as ‘the garden of the Shekha clan’, and it was named after its 15th-century founder, Rao Shekha, a Rajput chieftain of Jaipur’s Kachhawaha dynasty. This arid land became the crucible of the Marwari merchant class – families whose entrepreneurial instincts carried them from desert towns to the commercial heartlands of Kolkata, Mumbai and beyond.

Set in the triangle between Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner, Shekhawati – comprising the districts of Sikar, Jhunjhunu and Churu – thrived from the mid-18th century as a key trading corridor on the caravan routes that connected inland India to the western ports in Gujarat on the Arabian Sea. Salt, opium, spices and cotton passed through its bustling market towns – Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, Ramgarh – each growing in stature as their merchant families amassed wealth. Unlike neighbouring princely states that levied heavy taxes, Shekhawati’s rulers imposed lighter duties, making it an attractive base for Marwari traders to expand their reach across India and beyond. Prosperity followed – and so did architectural grandeur.

Merchants channelled their riches into building ever-grander havelis (mansions), each with at least two courtyards – the outer for business dealings, the inner strictly for family. Intricately carved wooden doorways, flamboyant mirror work and strikingly vivid frescoes adorned every surface, ensuring no one could mistake their owners’ largesse.

While artists from Jaipur were initially commissioned to paint the murals, local potters soon picked up the skills too, leading to a burst of unique styles across the region. Early frescoes featured mineral- and vegetable-based pigments – intense reds, maroons, indigos and copper blues. These were mixed into lime plaster, a technique that has helped many murals retain their colour for centuries.

By the mid-19th century, as British influence grew, the fresco style evolved. Oil-based murals (inspired by oleography) allowed artists to paint on dry plaster, and imported chemical pigments from England and Germany gradually replaced natural dyes. By the late 19th century, frescoes began to reflect the changing world. Alongside Hindu epics, images of floral motifs and Rajput royalty appeared alongside steam engines, gramophones, motor cars and colonial figures, echoing what the region’s well-travelled merchants experienced. The result was a unique blend of Mughal, Rajput and European elements – a vernacular art form found nowhere else.

But Shekhawati’s fortunes shifted when the British diverted trade to their new ports and encouraged relocation to Kolkata, Mumbai and Chennai. Many merchants left their ancestral homes, returning only for major celebrations, while others entrusted them to caretakers or abandoned them altogether. Over time, neglect and exposure to the elements have taken a toll – frescoes have faded, walls have crumbled and many havelis now stand in advanced stages of decay.

But there’s hope. In recent years, NGOs, hotel owners and the Rajasthan government have stepped in, putting in place heritage zoning, restoration grants and legal protection against demolition.

Shekhawati is often dubbed ‘India’s largest open-air art gallery’, and the region lives up to its title. Over 2,000 fresco-laden havelis lie scattered across its towns, comprising a forgotten treasure in the heart of the desert.

A wander through the painted towns

Mandawa is the most accessible town in the region. Its 18th-century Mandawa Fort – converted into a heritage hotel – dominates the skyline, but the real treasures lie in the painted havelis tucked away in its narrow lanes, which are best explored on foot.

Begin with the 166-year-old Jhunjhunwala Haveli, known for its Golden Room, where frescoes – mostly depicting Lord Krishna and other Hindu deities – are rendered in gold leaf. Other murals follow the Ragamala tradition, a lyrical style that translates the moods of Indian ragas into miniature paintings, blending music, poetry and art.

At Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli – also now a hotel – the subjects of frescoes range from steam trains and colonial troops to elephants (symbolising luck), camels (love) and horses (power). One panel even depicts the 1857 uprising against the British, with a scene showing soldiers being blasted from cannons. Another shows a rare portrayal of childbirth.

Nearby, the 1930s Murmuria Haveli offers a striking East-meets-West contrast: pastel-toned frescoes of Indian freedom fighters such as Mahatma Gandhi, Nehru and Bal Gangadhar Tilak appear alongside those of King George V and British troops. Scenes from Venice rub shoulders with tales of Lord Krishna, all framed within weather-worn arches and courtyards.

Regarded as the artistic heart of Shekhawati, Nawalgarh boasts nearly 200 fresco-adorned havelis – among the highest in the region. One standout is the early 20th-century Dr Ramnath A Podar Haveli, now transformed into a museum with 19 thematic galleries.
The building is a beautiful blend of Mughal and Rajputana architecture, with arched gateways reminiscent of Mughal palaces, fitted with traditional Rajasthani torans (decorative door hangings), and upper-level corridors lined with European-style columns.

It has around 750 frescoes, vividly capturing both local and global themes. There’s a steam engine, vibrant processions with dancers and musicians, and scenes from Hindu epics such as the infamous game of chausar (an ancient dice game) in the Mahabharata, as well as other mythological moments. There are also European touches – a British couple painted on a wall, portraits of traders at work and images of ships.

The museum’s galleries showcase Rajasthani culture through traditional wedding attire, jewellery, marble crafts, musical instruments, miniature models of the state’s famous forts and festival scenes.

Just a short walk away is the Morarka Haveli Museum, which was built in the early-1900s and has murals themed around Hindu mythology and local royal life. Another gem is the Bhagton Ki Choti Haveli, built in the 19th century by the Bhagat family. Its frescoes, painted in shades of golden-yellow, blue and green, offer a mix of Indian nymphs and cherubs, who share space with European ladies and a uniformed man with a pipe, a cane, and a tiny dog on his shoulder.

Just 8km from Nawalgarh is the town of Dundlod, a rewarding stop for heritage and horse-riding enthusiasts. At its centre stands Dundlod Fort, built in 1750 and still owned by the Shekhawati Rajputs. It now houses stables of native Marwari horses. From here, the Dundlod Royal Equestrian and Polo Centre runs multi-day safaris on horseback across the Thar scrubland.

Also worth a visit is the restored Seth Arjun Das Goenka Haveli, once home to the Goenkas, a prominent Indian business family, and now a well-maintained museum. Its 20 rooms offer a peek into 19th-century merchant life, including the original carved gateway leading to the mardana (men’s quarters), a reception room cooled by pulley-operated cloth fans and displays of everyday household artefacts from the era.

Though their mansions are not as well-maintained as those in other towns in the region, Fatehpur and Ramgarh still hold interest for those keen on Shekhawati’s painted heritage.

In Fatehpur – taken over by the Shekhawati Rajputs in the 18th century – you can check out the Nadine Le Prince Haveli. It has been restored by a French artist and now functions as a gallery, artist residency and boutique hotel. Guided tours (in English or French) are often led by visiting art students and delve into the building’s architectural legacy and the region’s mercantile history, plus there are several rooms available for overnight stays. The nearby Jagannath Singhania Haveli is also worth visiting for its frescoes of Radha and Krishna.

Ramgarh was once among Shekhawati’s wealthiest towns; as such, its temples are especially striking. Check out the 1840-built Khemka Shani Temple, which has a plain exterior but is filled with mirrorwork made from imported Belgian and Persian glass on the inside. Gold-lined murals of Hindu myths cover the walls near the inner sanctum.

Some lesser-known towns

In Mahansar, a quiet town in eastern Shekhawati, you’ll find a mid-19th-century shop known as Sone ki Dukaan (‘Shop of Gold’). Its low ceilings shimmer with gold leaf work, offering a glimpse into the opulence once common here. Just around the corner, the Tolaram Haveli still holds traces of its past: a dance hall strung with Belgian-made chandeliers, frescoes and latticed jharokhas (overhanging balconies) that once allowed women to watch performances without being seen.

The nearby town of Jhunjhunu is known for its Rani Sati Temple. Though linked to the now-banned practice of sati (in which a widow would immolate herself on her husband’s funeral pyre), it remains a site of deep cultural meaning. The Modi Haveli is also a major point of interest, with murals that shift from tales of Lord Krishna to portraits of British imperial figures and Indian royals.

To the north-west, Churu lies on the edge of the Thar Desert, its painted havelis baked by the sun and softened by the sand. Some of the most attractive are Kanhaiya Lal Bagla Haveli, Kothari Haveli and the grand Surana Double Haveli, known for its 1,100 windows. Do also check out the 150-year-old Jain temple dedicated to Bhagwan Shantinatha. Its plain outer appearance hides an interior covered in depictions of religious stories, portraits and scenes from everyday life.

Things to do and see

Magnetic Fields Festival

Since 2013, this three-day boutique festival has taken over the 17th-century Alsisar Mahal in Jhunjhunu, turning its courtyards and sand-strewn surroundings into a grand stage for cutting-edge electronic and experimental music. The line-up includes Indian and global artists, immersive light installations and occasional folk and fusion performances. magneticfields.in

Shekhawati Festival

Held each February in Nawalgarh, this festival spotlights the region’s rich heritage. Highlights include handicraft stalls, an organic food court, cultural acts and plenty of traditional games.

Vedaaranya Heritage and Healing Festival (VHAH)

This annual festival in Ramgarh brings together heritage walks (or rides with camel carts and tuk tuks), craft workshops, folk performances, cookery classes, wellness sessions and multi-genre music across a four-day event. This all falls under the sweeping banner of ‘heritage and healing’. vedaaranya.com

Where to stay in Shekhawati

This 18th-century, 80-room fort-turned-hotel is a feast for the eyes, with turreted towers, palanquin-style balconies and a mural-adorned dining room. A private cinema fitted with up-to-date equipment adds a surprisingly modern touch.

More information: castlemandawa.com

This restored 19th-century haveli has 33 suites and rooms, with the royal and luxury categories featuring frescoed walls, painted floors and grand baths. Modern additions include an Ayurvedic spa and swimming pool. In the evenings, local bards perform traditional folk songs.

More information: vivaana.com

Set just north of Nawalgarh’s main fort, this former royal retreat was expanded in 1928 with colonial-era flourishes and opened to guests in the early 1980s. Its stable of more than 50 Marwari horses offers riding excursions throughout the surrounding countryside.

More information: facebook.com/roopniwas

A full package of traditional experiences awaits at this 130-year-old haveli, ranging from guided desert safaris and rifle shooting to Rajasthani music and dance in the courtyard. Restored frescoes, in-house dining and leafy outdoor spaces round out the stay.

More information: kavassuheritagehaveli.com

A restored 1920s haveli with ornate stucco facades, Italian-influenced arches and original fresco murals. This family-run hotel offers camel and jeep safaris, folk-music performances and Indian-Rajasthani meals in its heritage dining space.

More information: maljikakamra.com