CULINARY
Tastes of Saudi: Eastern Province
Boasting one of the most diverse culinary cultures in the whole of Saudi, the Eastern Province's eclectic combination of ingredients, tastes and flavours make it an unmissable destination for those who travel to eat.
By Naomi Chadderton
Perhaps nowhere in the Kingdom is the cuisine more varied, rich and cosmopolitan than the Eastern Province which, as the largest in the country, shares its border with several different countries including Iraq, Kuwait, Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE and Oman. For centuries, Arabs in Saudi have traded with these countries, as well as India, Africa and Central Asia, resulting in a smorgasbord of both regionally and internationally inspired dishes. A side-effect of the area’s long-standing trade with Iran, India, Pakistan and Afghanistan, spices including saffron, cumin, turmeric and cardamom reign supreme in the Eastern Province, and you’ll be hard pushed to find dishes without a kick.
Similarly, thanks to its pearl diving history and close proximity to the ocean, locals have long relied on the bounty of the sea, favouring fresh seafood dishes including grouper, mackerel, red snapper and the more exotic parrotfish, often caught and cooked that very same day. Visitors to the Eastern Province can also expect to fill up on plenty of rice, with its markets and restaurants home to some of the most exciting varieties in the world. Whether cooked plain as an everyday dish or flavoured with rose water or saffron and garnished with raisins, onions, limes and spices, it’s likely to be the most perfectly-executed carbohydrate you’ve ever tasted.
Grown in the vast oasis of Al Ahsa, the largest governorate in Saudi’s Eastern Province, Hassawi rice is widely known as one of the most expensive rice varieties in the world (it is widely sold for a whopping 30 Saudi riyals (£6.50) per kilo).
Reddish brown in colour and grown only in unusually high temperatures, farmers even say its high nutritional value can help alleviate the pain of those suffering from arthritis and broken bones. In other words, it really is something special.
Tastiest when cooked with spices, enjoy it alongside grilled or fried fish and washed down with a refreshing glass of mango juice, just like the Saudis do.
Originally hailing from Bahrain – and one of the country’s most famous dishes – Muhammar is a combination of sweet rice seasoned with local spices and date molasses. Another speciality usually eaten with grilled or fried fish (most commonly local catch including Safi, Chanad, Rabeeb and Yanam), caramelised sugar syrup commonly gives the rice its colour and sweetness, but you can also come across variations crafted from date syrup or honey and rose water too.
As to be expected, an eclectic mix of spices including coriander, ginger, turmeric, red chilli, fenugreek, onion, garlic, clove and black pepper are added for taste before being served with a refreshing squeeze of lemon. Bon appétit.
It’s safe to say that no trip to the Eastern Province of Saudi would be complete without sampling some kabsa. A dish of Yemini origin, this mixed rice meal is commonly regarded as a national dish in all the countries of the Arabian Peninsula.
Taking it one step further, shrimp kabsa, if you haven’t already guessed, is a tasty twist on the traditional favourite (it can also be made with chicken, lamb or fish depending on the chef and the region), flavoured with stewed tomatoes, onion, garlic, cumin powder, chilli powder and dried lime for a taste sensation you won’t forget anytime soon.
One of the most popular desserts in the Eastern Province (so much so that it is even served at breakfast), Sago is a sugary dish otherwise known as Emirati tapioca pearl pudding. Originating from the United Arab Emirates, sago or tapioca pearls are delicately flavoured with saffron, rose water and cardamom, best washed down with a piping hot cup of Saudi coffee.
If you’re eating it first thing, opt for a bowl with fresh fruits like mango and berries to add a much-needed dose of nutrients to start your day. Interestingly, the majority of sago is produced in southeast Asia – Indonesia and Malaysia in particular.
While we might baulk at noodle-based breakfasts and desserts in the west, no big breakfast feast in Saudi’s Eastern Province is complete without a bowl of Balaleet (or five). And trust us, they are definitely onto something. A sweet-meets-savoury dish that can be eaten either hot or cold, it was first made popular in the UAE before making its way into the Kingdom’s culinary culture.
Prepared with vermicelli and sweetened with cardamom, saffron and rose water, the popular dish comes topped with a thin egg omelette for a much-needed protein hit. Fun fact: while the combination of sweets accompanied by eggs has been popular since the early Bedouins, the addition of vermicelli only really came with the traders who introduced pasta to the Middle East during the Middle Ages.
Practical information
Visas
It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).
Getting there & around
Local customs
To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.
Weather
You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit Riyadh is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime and rarely exceed 30°C. Summer months in Riyadh can get extremely hot, with temperatures often above 40°C between June and September.
Is English spoken in Saudi?
Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.
What is the currency of Saudi?
The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.
What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?
We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.
What’s the time difference in Saudi?
Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.
