Words by Eddi Fiegel
Aponiente
Lauded for the freshness of its vibrant, colourful, healthy produce – from Mediterranean fruit and vegetables to world-class olive oil, outstanding seafood and jamón (dry-cured ham) – Spain’s culinary traditions have also played a key part in the explosion of its restaurant scene. The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for 2023 featured no fewer than six Spanish entries, with three in the top five: Barcelona’s Disfrutar, Madrid’s DiverXO and Asador Etxebarri in Basque Country. Spain boasts 271 Michelin-starred establishments, including 15 with three Michelin stars. And many of these top chefs are leading the way in using seasonal local produce.
A deep love of the land and of quality produce is nothing new here. For the Spanish, the idea of savouring exceptional food during leisurely lunches and festive dinners is an essential part of social, family and business life. Good food is not an optional extra but is key to Spanish culture. If you know where to look, you’ll find superb food in cafes and restaurants at all levels, from the humblest tapas bar or beachside chiringuito to Michelin-starred temples of fine dining.
Coque
Spanish food wears its history on its sleeve. Look at a list of key ingredients, and you’ll see links to major episodes in Spain’s past. Almonds, saffron and dried fruit were brought to the Iberian Peninsula by the Moors, while conquistadores introduced tomatoes, peppers and potatoes from the New World. Wave after wave of invaders and settlers have left their marks on Spain’s culinary culture, from Greeks and Romans to Phoenicians and Jews. Even the rice used in arguably Spain’s most famous dish, paella, was introduced by the Moors. As with any of the world’s great food cultures, though, Spain’s culinary traditions are inextricably connected to its own land.
With both Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines, and a diverse array of landscapes – from the dramatic peaks and valleys of the Pyrenees and the dry plains of Castile-La Mancha to the lush orange groves of Andalusia – Spain’s climate and topography yields produce as varied as its scenery, creating a rich tapestry of regional dishes. Hearty stews were created to warm the bones in winter, while refreshing gazpacho (chilled tomato-based soup) wards off the heat in summer. Jamón serrano is dry-cured in mountain regions, while fish- and seafood-based cuisine evolved in coastal areas. In short, each place makes the most of what’s available locally.
AMA Restaurant
This buzz phrase of sustainable green cuisine has grabbed global attention in recent years. Yet the concept of using organically and sustainably produced ingredients that have travelled under 100km from farm to fork is as old as the Cantabrian hills.
Wherever you travel in Spain, from the Costas of Catalonia to the Sierras of Andalusia, you need head only a little way off the beaten track in order to find small villages in which residents shop at the community’s food market and prepare traditional dishes using ingredients from local farmers and producers.
That idea has now been recognised as key to sustainability – and Spain’s restaurants are leading the way, with top chefs across the country drawing on their own regional traditions and ingredients, as well as embracing initiatives such as waste recycling and green energy. No fewer than 49 restaurants across Spain have now been awarded a Michelin Green star recognising sustainable practices. Look out for that designation, and you can be sure you’ll enjoy food that is not only healthy and tasty, but also kinder to our planet.
Azurmendi
Coque
Set high on a hillside about 10km east of Bilbao, with floor-to-ceiling glass windows looking out over the countryside, the stylish Azurmendi could almost be a state-of-the-art greenhouse. In fact, this restaurant has won not only three Michelin stars for its seasonal local food, but also a Michelin Green star. Having been named Sustainable Restaurant of the Year in 2018, chef and founder Eneko Atxa advocates “using cooking to achieve a more sustainable, healthy and just society”. Related to that concept, his restaurant is constructed from local and recycled materials, and is powered sustainably. Atxa has also created the largest seed bank in Basque Country in an effort to secure local floral biodiversity.
Spain’s position at centre stage on the world restaurant scene owes more than a little to the longstanding global reputation of Ferran Adrià and his groundbreaking El Bulli restaurant in Catalonia, which five times secured top spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Although El Bulli closed in 2011, Adrià’s legacy endures – notably at Disfrutar, opened in 2014 by ex-El Bulli chefs Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas. Taking second place in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023, and boasting three Michelin stars, Disfrutar creates dishes combining culinary invention and innovation with a deep respect for ingredients. It also uses 100% renewable energy and adheres to the zero-kilometre philosophy.
Chefs Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas(Photo by Joan Valera)
Chef and owner Victor Arguinzoniz grew up with food cooked on open-flame charcoal grills. Now he has refined their use into a fine art – so much so, in fact, that his restaurant was awarded the number-four slot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2023. In a stylishly converted stone farmhouse in the tiny Basque mountain village of Axpe, Arguinzoniz uses his personally designed adjustable-heat grills to prepare and showcase local produce. Various types of wood coals are used to grill the diverse different ingredients, imbuing everything from homemade chorizo to buffalo cheese, salted anchovies and tender beef chops with a wonderfully subtle smokiness.
Coque
Aponiente
Dubbed the ‘chef of the sea’, Andalusian Ángel León focuses exclusively on ingredients sourced from the brine at his three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the small harbour town of El Puerto de Santa María, between Jerez and Cádiz. He is also considered a leader in the field of sustainable gastronomic practices, both at his restaurant and in creating new food sources and lobbying the EU to allow the human consumption of foods derived from marine microalgae. Aponiente was named Sustainable Restaurant of the Year in 2022, and has also been awarded a Michelin Green star.
Housed in a converted 14th-century mansion in a lush, tranquil valley between the Picos de Europa and Sierra del Sueve mountain ranges, sustainability is at the heart of this Michelin Green Starred hotel and restaurant. Sister-and-brother team Esther and Nacho Manzano champion seasonal cuisine, giving traditional Asturian dishes a contemporary twist. Many ingredients are sourced from the Manzanos’ extensive kitchen gardens, and they also work closely with local farmers and breeders.
Chefs Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas(Photo by Joan Valera)
At this restaurant, housed in a converted stone-built mill in the countryside near Pamplona, sustainability has been a central part of the philosophy since it opened in 2004, reflected in its Michelin Green star (it also has two Michelin stars). Chef and owner David Yárnoz is proud of the fact that 80% of the restaurant’s suppliers are local, and his menu showcases the wild mushrooms, fish, game and herbs of the surrounding region. The restaurant also takes a green approach to energy and water usage, recycling and waste disposal.
Spain has some of the finest food markets in Europe, offering exceptional fresh local produce year round. Few are more alluring than Valencia’s ornate Art Nouveau Central Market – the largest fresh produce market in Europe, and one of the most architecturally impressive. Beneath lofty domed ceilings adorned with brightly coloured stained glass and mosaics, almost 300 stalls are piled high with plump, ripe fruit, leafy lettuces and luscious vegetables, all grown in the swathe of fertile land around the city known as the Huerta.
Coque
The quality of being able to continue over a period of time, or the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance (Camrbdige Dictionary).
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