Modern wonders

Legend has it that when Katara Towers were completed in 2022, the flight routes to and from Hamad International Airport were altered so that passengers could enjoy bird’s-eye views of the landmark. So as your plane descends, look out for the gleaming crescent-shaped skyscraper, its form inspired by Qatar’s national emblem – two crossed scimitar swords. Rising 43 storeys above Lusail, the towers are also symbolic of Qatar itself: architecture that defies expectations, that embraces the future with energy and ambition.

Doha boasts an extraordinary skyline, from West Bay’s skyscraper forest – whose towers are shaped like tornados, ships’ sails and more – to the modernist Museum of Islamic Art, conceived by “starchitect” I. M. Pei. At the age of 91, he travelled the Middle East for six months in his quest to find the perfect design for the museum, alighting on a fusion of geometry, art and Islamic symbolism.

Near the Corniche, the National Museum of Qatar was created by French architect Jean Nouvel, its oblique curves inspired by natural desert rose crystals. Throughout the day, the moving sun seems to alter its form, eventually bathing it in a rich golden glow. It’s not the only striking design to be influenced by the natural world: the branch-like structures of Qatar National Convention Centre pay homage to the nation’s beloved sidra tree, and Doha’s state-of-the-art Metro stations capture its ever-present sunlight.

Meanwhile in Education City, Qatar National Library is reminiscent of a vast folded page, its interior harbouring almost one million books and artworks: all free to enjoy, and bathed in natural light. Close by, the district’s futuristic mosque is inspired by traditional calligraphy, its mighty minarets swooping ever-skywards.

Historic treasures

No trip to Doha is complete without haggling for dates, spices and incense in Souq Waqif, which has been the heart of the city since records began. Its oldest parts hark back to the 19th century, and its houses, shops and wind towers have been rejuvenated while honouring their Old Arabia charm. Indeed, Qataris enjoy shopping here just as much as visitors do, piling bags of groceries and rice into wheelbarrows, just as they have done for generations.

On the outer edge of the souq, Al Koot Fort was designed to protect the traders from thieves: “koot” means “fort” in Arabic. It was built in 1880, and its imposing battlements have been restored to their original glory – though now they feature a heritage museum, accessible by prior appointment. 15km to the west of Doha, Al Wajbah Fort defended the city against the Ottoman army in 1893; though it is now closed to visitors, you can still see the turret-topped lookouts and peep holes where the guards readied their weapons.

Fast-forward to the 1920s, when Radwani House was built in Msheireb, central Doha. This was a family home, with a wide shaded terrace, large majlis (living room) and courtyard garden – and it is now home to the Radwani House museum, decorated in its original humble-yet-homely style. It is like stepping into a timewarp, a glimpse of life in Qatar through the decades.

Amazing outdoor art

Doha doesn’t just enjoy art – it’s a living gallery, its streets enlivened with works by some of the world’s top creatives. As you wander the historic sikkas (alleyways) of Souq Waqif, you can’t miss César Baldaccini’s giant golden Pouce – that’s “thumb” in Arabic – while in Katara Cultural Village, Subodh Gupta’s Gandhi’s Three Monkeys grabs the attention of every passer-by. The award-winning Indian artist has adapted Gandhi’s "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil" motto into a trio of soldiers, their commando gear made from plates, spoons and other everyday home items – a message of peace and tolerance over conflict.

On the Corniche, the Pearl Monument celebrates Qatar’s pearl-diving history, its oyster shell opened wide to reveal a giant pearl, against the glittering backdrop of West Bay’s skyline and marina. It’s a view that perfectly encapsulates the nation’s appreciation of art, history and architecture. While you’re here, stroll for 25 minutes along the waterfront to MIA Park, home of Richard Serra’s 7. Reaching 24 metres tall, its seven steel plates symbolise the number’s importance in Islamic culture – and Qatar’s soaring ambition.

If you plan to visit the excellent Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, ask your taxi driver to call at Damien Hirst’s The Miraculous Journey on the way: this series of 14 huge bronze sculptures depicts the gestation of a human foetus in remarkable detail. When you landed at Hamad International Airport, you might have missed Urs Fischer’s Lamp Bear in your rush to start your holiday. But as you leave the city, it’s a local tradition to take a selfie beside this giant bronze-sculpted teddy – a symbol of playfulness, fond memories and home.