Carinthia’s provincial capital of Klagenfurt was my starting point for exploring the Austrian region’s many treasures. I joined a guided walking tour of the Old Town, uncovering its rich history and culture, including the legend of the lindwurm, the mythical dragon defeated by the city’s residents and commemorated with an iconic fountain in Neuer Platz. The tour also explored the city’s striking Renaissance courtyards, architectural masterpieces that showcase Klagenfurt’s astounding prosperity during the 16th century.
The city has two main Christmas markets, including the central Christkindlmarkt with live entertainment and bars. These generally open at the very end of November and run until just before Christmas Day. The standout, however, was the enchanting Hafenknistern at the Lendhafen (landing port). Despite being a relatively new addition, this market’s magical location on the canal beneath Johannes Church makes it unique. I browsed local artisans selling handmade crafts and bars serving mulled wine and festive cocktails while a brass band pumped out traditional carols.
Next, I set out to explore Wörthersee, the largest lake in Carinthia and also one of its most beautiful. It is especially celebrated for its crystal-clear waters. Travelling by boat, I stopped at picturesque destinations such as the charming lakeside town of Velden am Wörthersee and the serene village of Maria Wörth, known for its iconic church perched on a peninsula. If you prefer to stay on land, the lakeside paths offer dreamy walks alongside the tranquil shores. On rare occasions, the lake freezes over, inviting locals and visitors alike to skate on its glittering surface.
For a festive experience high in the Austrian Alps, the Katschberg Advent Trail (late November–December) is a must-visit. This 2km out-and-back path is illuminated by lanterns, and it winds through a snowy wonderland with charming alpine huts offering warm drinks and festive cheer en route. Inside, you’ll find locals crafting wooden toys and storytellers sharing captivating tales. The only way to reach the trail is by taking a horse-drawn carriage – complete with cosy blankets – along a snow-covered path. The result was a truly unforgettable way to embrace the winter season.
Must-see
Soaring above the waters of Wörthersee, the striking Pyramidenkogel is a marvel of design and engineering. As the tallest wooden viewing tower in the world (at 100m high), it offers breathtaking 360-degree views of Carinthia, extending as far as Italy and Slovakia on clear days.
To reach this iconic landmark, I took a boat to the charming village of Maria Wörth, where a short bus ride up the hill brought me to the tower’s base. From there, you can either ride a transparent elevator or ascend more than 400 steps to the observation deck, where jaw-dropping panoramas await.
For the young at heart, there’s an exhilarating slide back down to ground level – a 20-second thrill ride at speeds of up to 25kph. After channelling my inner ten-year-old and shrieking throughout the rapid descent, I needed a moment to steady myself, only to spot an unflattering photo of me mid-slide proudly displayed in the gift shop for everyone to see!
At the base of the tower, a small seasonal market adds to the charm, offering alpaca-wool clothing, freshly baked pretzels and locally made cheeses. Don’t miss the chance to snap a selfie with the adorable alpacas.
Top tip
To enjoy grand views of Klagenfurt, make your way to the tower at St Egid’s Parish Church. After a steep climb – don’t forget to pause midway to catch your breath – you’ll be rewarded with sweeping vistas of the city and a glimpse of Wörthersee. If you prefer a more leisurely experience, head to the Sky Bar at Select Hotel Moser Verdino (ihg.com). Here you can soak in panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains while sipping on expertly crafted cocktails – a perfect pairing with the scenery.
Cautionary tale
The Badehaus at Millstätter See is an idyllic retreat (badehaus-millstaettersee.at) offering breathtaking views of the surrounding natural beauty, especially on a sunny winter’s day. Unwind with its soothing sauna sessions, indulgent massage treatments and serene infinity pool, all designed to rejuvenate body and mind. For the daring, there’s the ultimate winter thrill: taking a plunge in the freezing lake. But be warned: the ice-cold waters are not for the faint-hearted, and staying in for more than a few seconds is not recommended!
I wish I had known
A daytime boat trip on Wörthersee treats you to stunning views of the surrounding mountains and tranquil waters. But, in the evening, I missed out on the Magical Advent boat trip (woertherseeschifffahrt.at). This delightful journey offers a festive feast, complete with delicious cuisine and mulled wine, all aboard a beautifully illuminated vessel. The magic doesn’t end there: a stop at Velden am Wörthersee allows passengers to explore the charming Christmas market along the lakeshore before sailing back across the glistening water.
Anything else?
As a food enthusiast, I was eager to dive into Carinthia’s culinary scene, and it didn’t disappoint. My first stop was the Benediktiner Market in Klagenfurt, open Thursday to Saturday, where the wide variety of stalls offer plenty of local delicacies. Highlights include reindling, a cinnamon-spiced raisin cake, and Kärntner nudeln, the region’s signature pasta pockets.
The standout dish was the Kärntner kasnudeln (Carinthian cheese dumplings) at Bierhaus zum Augustin (gut-essen-trinken.at), perfectly paired with one of their house-brewed beers. Coming a close second was the delicious pumpkin soup followed by spinatknödel (spinach dumplings) at the Hotel Bacher am Katschberg’s restaurant (urlaub-katschberg.at). It’s the perfect way to warm up after a day on the slopes or exploring the Advent Trail.
The fine-dining experience at Das Kulinarium (daskulinarium.at) in Klagenfurt delivers sophisticated cuisine in an elegant setting. It’s a great way to taste some local specialities at a very reasonable price. For a taste of Carinthia’s beverages, the Schleppe Brewery (schleppe.at) on the outskirts of Klagenfurt is a must-visit. Here you can sample a variety of beers, whiskeys and schnapps, each reflecting the region’s unique Alpine and cultural heritage.
The author’s trip was supported by Visit Carinthia (visitcarinthia.at) and Visit Klagenfurt (visitklagenfurt.at).
