Nikko in all four seasons on the Tobu Rail

A pilgrimage site since the 17th century, Nikko sits in the forest-swept mountains of Tochigi Prefecture, a landscape that changes dramatically with the seasons. Whether in spring, summer, winter or autumn, the new Spacia X train offers a unique way to see it, sitting in the luxurious Cockpit Lounge, from which you can watch a world of rice paddies, rolling mountains and small towns drift by.

SPRING

A time of blossoms and heritage

Spring is a time when even Japan’s feudal warlords used to stop, reflect, drink sake and compose poetry under blooming cherry trees. Asakusa, Tokyo’s historic cultural district, sets the scene for your Nikko journey. Walk along the Sumida River and have your own hanami (flower-viewing) party. Watch delicate petals tumbling from the trees like confetti – a symbol of impermanence in Japanese culture – then stroll to Senso-ji, Tokyo’s oldest, most magnificent Buddhist temple, where devotees pay their respects to Kannon, the goddess of mercy.

Tobu Asakusa Station is a short walk away; board the Spacia X to Nikko here. Your first stop is the the famous vermilion Shinkyo Bridge and Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Join pilgrims on a blossom-filled route to the ornate shrine buildings, intricately carved and covered in gold leaf. Visit the nearby mausoleum, where Japan’s Great Unifier, Tokugawa Ieyasu, was laid to rest amid a forest of cedars.

Also pay your respects at the 8th-century Rinnoji Temple, with its 8.4-metre gold-plated depictions of Buddha, and Futarasan Shrine, dedicated to the old mountain gods of Nikko. Look for the bake-doro here, the ‘ghost lantern’ that supposedly shapeshifts at night and haunts the shrine grounds.

Try Nikko’s famous spring ichigo (strawberries) on a fruit-picking experience at Nikko Strawberry Park, around a 15-minute drive from the station. Grab a bottle of sake made with local spring water at the Tobu Nikko Station Store, before bedding down for the night at the historic Nikkō Kanaya Hotel.

SUMMER

Nature and celebration

The mercury climbs fast in the summer, but Nikko offers welcome relief from the summer heat. Enjoy a cool breeze on one of its trails. At 1,400m, the high-altitude marshland of the 11km Senjogahara Trail serves up a lush landscape bound by deciduous forests alive with birdsong. Go on a guided nature walk to appreciate the wonder – and vulnerability – of this volcanic ecosystem.

Another nature trail, along the Kinugawa River, winds through a fantastical gorge called Ryuokyo, the ‘Dragon King’, while the Mount Hangetsu hiking route offers epic views of Lake Chuzenji. Also formed by volcanic activity, Nikko’s Kegon, Ryuzu and Yutaki falls – all accessible by bus or walking trail – are at peak intensity following the June rainy season.

Alternatively, rent a bicycle and head for the Nikko City Road 1002, a paved woodland track on which only bikes and non-polluting vehicles are permitted, or make the tough ascent up Irohazaka Slope and be rewarded with a windswept view of Chuzenji. Having earned a rest, book a room at The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko, where you can recover with hot spring baths, spa treatments and an evening of craft cocktails.

AUTUMN

Colours and craftsmanship

Nikko is at its most resplendent in autumn, when its hillsides are ablaze in crimson, ochre and golden hues. Admire the changing colours from the deck of a Tobu Chuzenjiko Cruise ferry, drifting on the waters of the eponymous lake, then go for a gentle hike through Kanmangafuchi Abyss, a pretty gorge lined with around 70 Jizo bodhisattva statues, each carved from stone and regarding passersby from under a red knitted cap.

Discover the beauty of Japanese craftsmanship at the Nikko Mekke Local Heritage & Craft Centre, where artisans make deerskin products, indigo-dyed textiles and woodcrafts, including Nikko-bori. This Edo-period style of woodwork originated with the craftsmen who constructed Nikko Toshogu Shrine back in 1617. At Mekke, be sure to join a workshop and create your very own Nikko-bori hand mirror or nameplate.

Autumn is a delight on the palate as well as the eyes. Nikko locals typically dine on buttery wagyu beef, miso soup, and tsukemono pickles (paired with sake) as winter looms. Try some yuba (tofu skin), a local delicacy served in many Nikko restaurants. For accommodation, stay at Chuzenji Kanaya Hotel, a log cabin-style retreat that puts you among the autumnal foliage of the Mizunara oak trees on the shores of Lake Chuzenji.

WINTER

Serenity and snow

Snow feels quintessentially Japanese, returning the landscape to its most poetic, unmediated form. You’ll notice this transition from your seat on the Spacia X, with snowdrifts gradually building as you leave the Tokyo sprawl and climb northwards into the mountains of Oku-Nikko.

Yumoto Onsen Ski Resort offers a real winter wonderland, with its serene slopes surrounded by forest. The ski area also features hot springs, a warming place to soak your weary muscles after a day on the slopes. Finish your day with a hearty Nikko winter classic: yuba with soba noodles and hot sake.

MAKE IT HAPPEN

Buy tickets for the Spacia X online or in person at ticket machines in Tobu train stations. The Limited Express Spacia X from Tobu Asakusa Station to Tobu-nikko Station takes around 1 hour and 50 minutes.

Book tours and passes for Nikko attractions, including its UNESCO World Heritage shrines, at Tobu Top Tours. 

Discover Wanderlust’s recommended four-day itinerary for Nikko.