Whale watching in Western Australia

“We’ll see you in the pub later,” the crew called as we disembarked. We were staying in Bremer Bay, a small town with a population of 240, but hadn’t appreciated that Bremer Bay’s only hotel was also the social hub for the district.

Sure enough, at dinner that night, the restaurant and bar were full of familiar faces. The boat’s owner, Paul Cross, joined us for a while; he explained that he had originally worked in oil and gas but had wanted a change. In 2009 he and his wife bought Naturaliste Charters (“I’d never even been on a whale-watching tour!”). Now Paul offers whale-watching from mid-May to mid-December, and from two different locations in Western Australia. “We see mostly humpbacks and southern rights,” he told us. “In November we see blues.”

However, it is now the mystery of Bremer Canyon that is fascinating him. “We don’t make a profit from the trips as we only take 25 passengers on the boat – just enough to cover the costs so that we can put scientists on the vessels. We have had two researchers every day this season, but we need a multi-disciplinary team.”

Then Dave Riggs himself turned up. He told us that he believes the canyon is a giant fuel deposit and is leaking hydrocarbon gas, which fertilises the ocean and leads to the abundance of marine life. But if that is right, why are the apex species only congregating in February and March? Dave hasn’t got the answers yet, but he is determined to find them, and to protect this unique spot.

He also feels that there must be a link between the biodiversity of the canyon and the terrestrial biodiversity of the coast here. “There are two remarkable hotspots here – Bremer Canyon and the Fitzgerald, which is ancient and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. There has to be a correlation. It’s not a coincidence that they are both so unique.”

Getting there
Etihad Airways flies daily from London Heathrow to Perth via Abu Dhabi. Returns cost from £644 (Economy) and £2,891 (Business); journey time is from around 21 hours. Etihad also flies to Perth from Manchester and Edinburgh (from 8 June, 2015).

Getting around
To get from Perth to Albany you can fly (45mins) or get a bus (5-6hrs). Alternatively, hire a car from Perth or Albany. Self-drive is easy: driving is on the left and roads are fairly empty. The main hazards are kangaroos and other wild animals – watch out for them bouncing across the road, particularly in the early morning and evening, and after dark.

Accommodation
Bremer Bay Resort is set amid native bush and has views of the Bremer Estuary.
The quirky and friendly Quaalup Homestead Wilderness Retreat is within Fitzgerald National Park. Take your pick from rooms or camping. Cape Howe Cottages, between Albany and Denmark, offers self-catering accommodation.

Whales, walking and wine

Naturaliste Charters runs Bremer Canyon Killer Whale expeditions daily in February and March.

Inspiration Outdoors runs four-day treks along the Bibbulmun Track, including all meals, accommodation and a guide.

Wineries worth visiting include Singlefile Wines (relatively new but has won several awards), the small and friendly Ironwood Estate in the Porongurup Range, and the large but beautiful Lake House in Denmark.

Food & drink
Expect fresh, seasonal produce including local seafood and beef. Marron, a type of crayfish, is a rare delicacy. Good vegetarian dishes are widely available while the local wines are fabulous.

Seek out Pepper & Salt, set within Denmark’s Forest Hill Vineyard; here, chef-patron Silas Masih creates his own brand of gourmet fusion cuisine most lunchtimes (but just one evening a week). At Albany’s National Anzac Centre, Garrison takes food seriously, offering everything from Sunday roast with Yorkshire pudding to modern dishes using local produce. The Lake House in Denmark offers imaginative lunch platters in a lovely vineyard setting overlooking a private lake.

For more information, seewesternaustralia.com