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PRACTICAL GUIDE

What to wear in Saudi

A comprehensive guide to how to dress for every situation and season in Saudi, from city exploration and religious sites, to a desert adventure.

Words by Emma Thomson | Images by William Gray

As part of Saudi’s Vision 2030 – an ambitious program to embrace tourism and reduce the country’s economic reliance on oil – a series of reforms have been rolled out over the last few years to embrace a more moderate form of Islamic Law.

This is evident in the changing attitudes towards clothing, particularly in forward-thinking cities, such as Jeddah, and perhaps less so in countryside towns which remain quietly more conservative. Saudi thrives on its traditions and takes great pride in them and both men and women continue to choose to dress modestly – covering their shoulders and knees. Adhering to this is appreciated and valued and will maximise your enjoyment of the country.

The day to day

Saudi is a nation in flux and attitudes towards clothing and its enforcement have been evolving rapidly in recent years. Strictness of the dress code varies by region and some Saudis still choose to dress conservatively, but this is a personal choice and is no longer enforced by law.

Women

Traditionally, women, whether Muslim or not, were obliged to wear an abaya – a loose, robe-like dress – with a hijab (headscarf), or the more conservative, niqab, a headscarf, usually black, revealing only the eyes. The hijab and abaya are no longer mandatory and some young women, especially in cities, have welcomed the change. Others have made the personal choice to continue to wear one, especially at their place of work. The majority of Saudi women also continue to wear an abaya but be assured this is a personal choice and not compulsory, and their design more frequently reflects personal taste. Many expats wear brightly coloured versions in an open fashion, more like a cooling wrap or gown. It’s easy to put on top of a short-sleeve T-shirt when out and about and can then be removed quickly when not in public. Clothes that are tight-fitting or see-through are still prohibited, but alternatives to the abaya, such as long cardigans or cotton kimonos, are being embraced and an excellent option for female travellers when worn over blousy T-shirts or loose-fitting shirts. For the bottom half, we suggest baggy trousers or ankle-length skirts; jeans tend to be too clingy and hot. Ensure tops have a high neckline to avoid exposing any cleavage.

Men

Dress codes are generally the same for men and women, with emphasis on smart dress depending on the establishment. Modesty is expected for all genders in and around religious sites. Saudi men can be seen in the traditional thobe, or thawb, a loose-fitting robe, which is usually white in summer, when it’s hot, while darker colours are worn in winter. Some may also wear the ghutra, a chequered white-and-red headdress kept in place with a double braid of black cord known as an agal. Casual wear is embraced in shopping centres and public spaces in general. A hat in summer is essential for everyone.

At religious sites

Home to the holy cities of Makkah (Mecca) and Madinah – the world’s most important Islamic sites – Saudi welcomes around two million Muslims during the annual Hajj pilgrimage. Mecca is closed to non-Muslims, but travellers wishing to visit Madinah and the other 94,000 mosques across Saudi, some of which are more than a thousand years old and also serve as community and education centres, are asked to dress conservatively. Travellers are not required to dress the same as locals; long-sleeved tops paired with trousers or long skirts that cover the ankles, is fine. In some mosques, the imam is also fine with foreign women not covering their hair, but it’s rare, and the gesture of wearing a headscarf is appreciated. Some establishments may have spares you can borrow, but it’s always best to carry one in your bag just in case.

Be aware that most mosques have separate entrances for men and women, and you need to remove your shoes, which can be stored on shelves provided outside the door, before entering. There may be a common gathering room where both sexes mingle, but usually men and women pray separately in different rooms or divided by a screen or curtain.

On an adventure

Even when you’re out in the wilds, such as exploring one of Saudi’s five deserts, you’ll still be expected to dress modestly – but wearing long layers helps to avoid sunburn. Choose clothing made from cotton, linen, or other light breathable materials for during the day, but also pack a warmer layer for after sunset, when the temperature can get decidedly chilly. Away from the crowds, it’s usually ok to wear T-shirts that come down to your elbow. A hat and sunscreen are essential.

Comfortable trainers are best for hiking and desert exploration, as it’s cleaner and prevents bug bites. International hotels and private beaches vary in their pool accessibility, between mixed pools and men-only/women-only services, so it’s best to check before you book or travel.

Time of year

There are really only two seasons in Saudi: summer and winter. Mercury levels tend to range from a toasty 20°C in spring/winter (falling to 10°C in the mountains), to a roasting 40°C in summer, so covering up makes sense from both a practical and social point of view to protect your skin from the unrelenting sun. Even January, the coldest month, averages around nine hours of sunshine and a daily low of 18°C, depending on where you are. It can get down to freezing point in mountainous areas like Tabuk, where you can find snow. Small mosquitoes are prevalent after dark and during winter, particularly in the cities, so it’s worth putting repellent on exposed feet and hands or wearing closed shoes.

Do:

– Cover shoulders and knees

– Women should wear a headscarf when visiting mosques

– Clothing rules for children aren’t as strict: boys can wear shorts and prepubescent girls may wear sundresses

– Choose opaque materials, so underwear is not visible through your clothes

Don’t:

– Wear T-shirts with potentially offensive slogans or symbols

– Avoid wearing black in high temperatures

– Don’t expose cleavage or chest – ensure tops have high necklines

Practical information

Visas

It’s surprisingly simple and easy to get an e-Visa for Saudi and the process is very similar to applying for an ESTA for the USA. Over 50 nationalities are eligible to apply for an e-Visa, including people from the UK and USA, with it costing (at the time of writing) 535 Saudi riyals (about £115 or US$143). Applications are swift and nearly all applicants will receive a response within three working days – most within 24 hours. To apply for your Saudi e-Visa, visit the official Saudi Tourism Authority website. If you’re from the USA, UK or the Schengen Area, you can also apply for a visa on arrival into Saudi. It’s slightly cheaper than an e-Visa, too, at SAR480 (about £102 or US$128).

Getting there & around

With plenty of direct flight links from the UK to Saudi, it’s really easy to get to the country. Saudi’s national airline SAUDIA flies to Riyadh three times daily from London Heathrow, while British Airways also offers a regular service from Heathrow with daily flights to the capital. SAUDIA also operates twice daily flights to Jeddah from London Heathrow and daily flights from London Gatwick. If you’re travelling from the US, SAUDIA offers direct flights to Riyadh from both New York City and Washington, D.C., as well as direct flights to Jeddah from New York City, Washington, D.C. and Los Angeles.

Local customs

To really embrace Saudi life and pay respect towards its traditions, there are a few local customs you should abide when travelling around the country. Both men and women should wear clothing that covers their elbows and below their knees when out in public. If you’re heading to the coast, it’s still expected you dress modestly. When meeting and greeting locals, whether it’s a market stallholder or a private guide, say hello with ‘salam alaykum’, which means ‘peace be upon you’, as well as offering a handshake.

Weather

You might think it’s hot all year round in Saudi but it’s a little more nuanced than that. The best time to visit the country is between October and March, when temperatures can dip as low as 20°C during the daytime, depending on where in the country you are, and rarely exceed 30°C. The summer months between June and September can get extremely hot, with temperatures often north of 40°C. But, do as the locals do and head out after dusk when it’s much cooler!

FAQ

Is English spoken in Saudi?

Arabic is the official national language but English is widely spoken.

What is the currency of Saudi?

The currency of Saudi is the riyal, with the current rate (at the time of writing), around SAR4.76 to the UK£. You’ll need to pre-order money before you travel, as in the UK it’s not usually stocked in currency exchange booths.

What’s it like travelling in Saudi as a female?

We think you’d be surprised! To find out more, read our first-hand account on what it’s like to travel in Saudi.

What’s the time difference in Saudi?

Saudi follows Arabia Standard Time (GMT +3) all year round.