White water rafting on the Zambezi River
Fancy braving crocs, rapids, and supernatural wrath on a white water rafting trip down the Zambezi? Then read on…
Down the plughole
Plunging & portaging
On day three we shot into the great foaming waves of the Chamamba rapid. It’s one of the few that has an African name: many of the Zambezi’s rapids were named by the non-native pioneer rafters who made the first descent – hence the eccentric and largely terrifying English names: The Muncher, Oblivion, Gnashing Jaws of Death.
But there was no time to consider etymology now. Koryn lined the raft up, and then down the green tongue we went. We were going well when a great curve of water seemed to go through us rather than over us. I felt myself going, felt my grip loosening.
Somehow I clung on, but those behind me had less to hold on to. The next thing I knew, fellow rafters Andrew and Helen were popping up out of the foam like eager seals, their jackets keeping them afloat in the raging torrent. Koryn spun the raft and Andrew and Helen kept pace alongside until we reached the quieter water. We pulled them aboard with much grunting and straining, but it was encouraging to know that it was possible to survive falling in.
It wasn’t all such high-energy action. There were stretches of cruising along on more placid waters, taking in the sounds and smells of the African bush. There were no villages on the river, just a few empty huts and waving fishermen. But despite this seemingly uninhabited territory, porters would magically appear at times to help us portage around any particularly violent rapids. Portaging – carrying your boat and belongings along the bank – in a lightweight birchbark canoe is easy.
But two rafts and all the gear for ten people would have taken all day to shift without our helpers. For $7 each they carried everything.
From ghosts to crocodiles
But is there ever a good point? If you survived the crocs, you’d then face the hippos. A bloat of the grey-pink beasts wallowed in the river, chuckling to each other and watching us. We watched them, too – hippos can be extremely aggressive if they take a dislike to you. When we saw seven of them on a submerged rock Koryn sheered off towards the bank, taking no chances.
Then, quite suddenly, after crossing a few minor ripples, we arrived at the Matetsi River where a chopper, buzzing like something out of a ’Nam movie, was waiting on the gravel beach to swoop us back up the 120km we’d just paddled. It was an awesome sight, following the fissure of Batoka Gorge from a falcon’s perspective.
I thought back to the first rule of rafting – that the rapids always look smaller from above than when you’re in them – and realised, partly with horror, partly with the smug satisfaction of a homecoming hero, that they looked pretty enormous from up here too.
Plan your trip…
When to go
The main rafting period on the Zambezi is August to October. At this time the water levels are dropping – the more they drop, the wilder the rapids, so expect more ferocious currents later in the season. Only experts and madmen attempt rafting trips in November and December.
Make it happen
Zambezi rafting features on many adventurous group trip itineraries, so there’s plenty of choice. Abercrombie & Kent’s Family Adventure to Zambia can be tailored to suit all ages, and includes adrenalin-pumping rafting as well as more sedate canoe safaris. If you’ve got 43 days to get to grips with Africa, try Absolute Africa’s Rivers of Africa trip: you’ll raft on the Zambezi, as part of a whopping six-country tour. Oasis Overland’s Victoria Falls to Cape Town is perfect for budget-wary travellers: £545 will buy you an action-packed 21-day trip, including white water rafting on the Zambezi.
What to take
You need items that you can strap to yourself – river rapids are no respecter of property. Therefore you’ll need strap-on sandals or trainers to raft in, and a band to keep your sunglasses on your head. Also useful are a karabiner for fastening your water bottle to the boat, a cap (worn under your helmet) to keep the sun off and waterproof sunscreen.
Health & safety
While chucking yourself into churning waters in an inflatable sounds dangerous, it really isn’t as long as you travel with trained professionals. You don’t even need to be able to swim – your buoyancy jacket will keep you afloat. You do need to like water, however – you’re going to get very wet. You also need to be fit enough to hop in and out of a raft. Make sure you’re up to date with your vaccinations and ask your GP or a travel clinic about malaria prophylaxis.
