In conversation with Bush Girl Medicine: The healing power of the Cayman Islands’ plants
What inspired you to start your blog, Bush Girl Medicine?
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I really learned about the islands’ plants from my mum. She was a big inspiration for me. I have always been interested in local plants, particularly native and endemic species. I started to get especially interested in the cultural uses of plants that would have sustained my own ancestors and previous generations of Caymanians. I also wanted to introduce people to flora they wouldn’t normally see in their everyday life, as some of our species are incredibly rare and unassuming.
How would you define bush medicine?
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Part of the isolation and the remoteness of Cayman in the early days meant if something went wrong, you had to be able to fix it yourself, and that included your health. Bush medicine is about being able to utilise specific plants, herbs, fruits and flowers to heal ailments, and in those early days in Cayman, this was an important part of maintaining health.
Caymaninan culture developed in close relationship with the natural environment because early Caymanians didn’t have access to many imported goods. There had to be a relationship with the land and sea in order to survive. When looking at plants and bush medicine, it’s interesting to consider the common names, rather than the scientific ones. These common names can change from district to district in Cayman and often contain important cultural information about what those plants were used for. We have a plant called headache bush that was used to treat headaches, and another called fever grass that was used for fevers; worry vine was used to calm anxiety and heart bush was used to fix heart issues. What would have happened around a traditional Cayman cottage is there would have been fruit trees in the yard, some beautiful flowers for aesthetic purposes and also a medicinal part of the garden, so the remedies were close by if you needed them.
How can visitors learn more about these traditional botanics for themselves?
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The Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park has a heritage garden with a traditional Cayman cottage showing the typical layout of a Caymanian home, including a medicinal garden section. Over at the Farmers’ Market on Grand Cayman, you will find vendors selling medicinal herbs as well as fresh local produce. Also, the Teatime in Cayman company, brews teas with blends inspired by local botanicals. Pedro St James is a historic site where you can learn about how early Caymanians lived.
How do you think Cayman will surprise visitors?
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A lot of people see those glossy images of Seven Mile Beach, but once you go off the beaten track it’s a completely different place. In the interior of Grand Cayman, Little Cayman and Cayman Brac, you’re faced with a terrain of tangled, thick undergrowth and canopies where you will hear parrots flying overhead and see land crabs in the undergrowth.
Where can visitors see Cayman’s more natural side for themselves?
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The botanic park is one of the more accessible options for getting a glimpse of that wild Cayman. Its Woodland Trail leads you through a variety of terrains but is very flat and easy to walk. Another accessible option here is the Orchid Boardwalk. In May and June, the orchids are out in full force and you can see the Cayman national flower, the endemic wild banana orchid.
The National Trust has the Mastic Trail in Grand Cayman, an historic walking path originally used to connect the northern side of the island with the southern side of the island before the roads were built. It’s an incredible option for its variety of landscapes, from mangrove wetlands to rocky, dry forests and everything in between.
Little Cayman also has a nature trail maintained by the National Trust, with a boardwalk displaying the coastal shrubland environment where rock iguanas nest. Cayman Brac is just a nature lover’s paradise with wellmaintained trails, a parrot reserve and lots of caves and sinkholes.
How can visitors immerse themselves in the Cayman Islands’ culture?
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The Cayman Collection Centre is a newly opened facility displaying our tangible cultural history. There’s lots of cultural artefacts there that haven’t been displayed before. I would also really encourage people to check out the National Gallery. It’s a visual art museum, but it’s so much more than that; it has poetry slam nights, immersive exhibits and lots of work done within the local community. It also hosts travelling exhibits on the sister islands and is a great place to experience the artistic expression of the Cayman’s cultural identity.
As well as writing your blog, you also work in the Ministry of Sustainability and Climate Resiliency. How can visitors ensure their trip is sustainable?
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Anyone travelling to Cayman automatically supports our natural environment by paying a fee which goes straight into our Environment Protection Fund, a key resource for preserving land in Cayman.
Be sure to visit places that are off the beaten path. The Cayman Islands National Attractions Authority has good information on these lesser-known spots. Make sure you visit the sister islands (Little Cayman and Cayman Brac); there is so much hidden history there waiting to be explored, as well as incredible diving, hiking and a very different pace of life.
And of course, bring your own water bottle – the water in Cayman is fine to drink – and bring a reusable shopping bag.
What is your favourite thing to do in Cayman?
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To walk nature trails such as the Mastic Trail, as well as the trails on the other islands, is a wonderful way to spend your time, because they really give an insight into a natural world we still know so little about. Collectively, the 14 UK Overseas Territories contain 90% of the UK’s biodiversity, and a recent study has predicted that there may be as many as 70,000 new species to be discovered. People think because these islands are so small, we must have seen everything, but just two years ago I was involved in the discovery of new plants in the Cayman Islands.
My advice is to walk those trails with a guide from the National Trust, or to have an expert guided tour at the botanic park and to seek out a different perspective on what you’re seeing. It may look like a bunch of green bush, but when you start to really look at what these individual plants are, then you get an understanding of the cultural connections between Caymanians and nature, and can delve into a completely different side of our beautiful islands.
Feeling inspired?
5 ways to escape into nature in the Cayman Islands
1: Visit the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park
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Covering 65 acres of land on Grand Cayman, the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park is alive with native and exotic flora and fauna. At the Flora Garden, you can drift from pinks to reds, oranges to yellows, and from whites to blues in this bountiful garden that’s organised by colour tones. The Blue Garden is the largest with blooms in varying shades of blue, purple and lavender. There are wooded areas with native trees and grassy zones too.
Stroll along the Orchid boardwalk to see some of the island’s exquisite wild orchids, including endemic species – go in May and June and you’ll see the Caymans’ national flower, the spectacular wild banana orchid, in bloom. The yellow and purple orchid is one of 26 native varieties in the archipelago.
Another walk worth trying here is the short but scenic Woodland Trail. Just less than a mile long, the path traverses swampy and dry areas with one of the rarest species to look out for being the cockspur tree along with bull thatch palms.
The park is also home to the Xerophytic Garden where you can admire the spiky, sculptural forms and tenacity of an array of xerophytic species including cactus, succulents and other drought tolerant plants that flourish in arid conditions. There are hardy ornamental grasses and flowering perennials too.
Don’t miss a chance to go back in time at the Heritage Garden. This charming garden is centred around a traditional turn-of-the-century cottage from the East End. Healing plants can be seen here along with tropical fruit trees and national tree, the silver thatch palm.
2: Go to Barker’s National Park
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For a quiet and wilder beach experience, make for Barker’s National Park. On the tip of the West Bay, this secluded area is accessed by a long and bumpy dirt road. Enjoy a peaceful wander around the shoreline’s mangroves followed by a solitary snorkel. Native sea grape trees grow along the shores, where you can also enjoy a picnic – there are no facilities here, but it’s all the more special for it.
3: Walk the Mastic Trail
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Go with a naturalist guide to get the most from this hiking trail that strikes a route north from near Bodden Town through the Mastic Reserve. This preserved patch is one of the last remaining examples of the Caribbean’s subtropical, semi-deciduous dry forest. At just over 3km, the trail is flat but surprisingly challenging. As you pass through dry forests and swampy mangroves, guides will point out various trees, including the rare mastic that once flourished here, flowers and many birds. Lizards, snakes, tree frogs and hermit crabs are also likely sightings.
4: Spot iguanas at Colliers Wilderness Reserve
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Head to Grand Cayman’s undeveloped East End to get a feel for traditional Caymanian life and see its rare endemic blue iguanas. Colliers Wilderness Reserve was established in the eastern region’s wild interior by The National Trust. The shrubland forest habitat is the ideal environment for the reptiles, who are released here as part of ongoing conservation efforts. An easy-going nature trail twists through the reserve where you may well spot iguanas as well as birds and butterflies.
5: Get off the beaten track at the two sister islands
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Cayman Grand may hog the main images of the brochure, but its two sister islands are well worth visiting, especially if you are craving a more local, authentic island experience. At just ten miles long and one mile wide, Little Cayman boasts empty beaches where you can sit with a picnic and trick yourself into thinking you’re the only person on the planet, with just the sounds of the gently lapping waves for company. Divers will discover that it is busier under water here than it is on land, with the incredible Bloody Bay Wall dive site allowing you to glimpse native sharks, turtles and stingrays.
Cayman Brac is the perfect place for an off the beaten track hike where you can head into a thick tangle of forest that’s alive with plants and birds. Pit stops en route can include picnics on deserted white sand beaches or head into the tiny towns to find a local lunch and a well-deserved, ice cold Caybrew.
Feeling inspired?
15 stunningly beautiful shipwrecks you must visit
1. S.S. Yongala, Queensland, Australia
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Framed pink soft coral on the wreck of the S.S. Yongala (Shutterstock)
The Yongala sank off the coast of Queensland during a cyclone in 1911. 122 people lost their lives as did a racehorse called Moonshine and a red Lincolnshire bull named Big Blue.
Today, it rests 90km southeast of Townsville, 10km away from Cape Bowling Green, encrusted in coral and providing shelter for manta rays, sea snakes, octopuses, turtles, bull sharks, tiger sharks and schools of fish. Many divers claim it is the most beautiful wreck in the world.
2. H.M.S. Vixen, Bermuda
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Tourists approach the partially submerged H.M.S. Vixen (Shutterstock)
The HMS Vixen was an armoured gunboat that served with distinction, protecting the Royal Navy Dockyard in Bermuda.
After finishing her days as an accommodation hulk for dockyard workers, the Vixen was scuttled off Daniel’s Head in 1895, laying in a narrow gap in the coral reef, with the bow just above water.
3. U.S.A.T. Liberty, Bali, Indonesia
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Free diver exploring the U.S.A.T. Liberty shipwreck (Shutterstock)
Resting just 30 metres off a beautiful black sand beach in Tulamben, Bali, the Liberty sits encrusted in fantastically coloured anemone, alcyonacea and coral in just 9 metres of water.
Torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942, the wreck has broken up, but still divers can still see its guns, bunks, boilers and anchor chain.
4. MV Panagiotis, Zakynthos, Greece
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Navagio beach at sunset (Shutterstock)
The wreck of the Panagiotis lays on the white sand of an exposed cove on the coast of Zakynthos, one of the southern Ionian Islands.
It ran ashore in 1980 during stormy weather and was abandoned, creating a tourist attraction and giving the beach a new name at the same time – Navagio, Greek for shipwreck. Surrounded by rocky cliffs, it can only be reached by boat.
5. Blockships, Scapa Flow, Scotland
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Blockships protecting the harbour of Scapa Flow (Shutterstock)
The sheltered waters near South Ronaldsay in the Orkney Islands have used by ships since prehistory. Scapa Flow has played an important role in travel, trade and conflict throughout the centuries – especially during both World Wars – and protecting it was vital to allied success.
To this end, ‘blocking ships’ were deliberately sunk during both wars to prevent access Scapa Flow and can be still seen in the bay today. The Tabarka was one of the last to be sunk and is a popular attraction for divers from all over the world.
6. S.S. Thistlegorm, Red Sea, Egypt
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Coral encrusted motorcycle on the Thistlegorm (Shutterstock)
Sunk by a German air attack in 1941, the Thistlegorm sank in the Strait of Gobal, just north of Ras Mohammed near Sharm El-Sheikh. Its cargo was war supplies, including rifles, train carriages and trucks, all of which can be still seen today.
There were motorbikes too, and sitting on one, encrusted by coral and surrounded by colourful fish, is a prized photo opportunity for divers visiting the wreck.
7. Sarah, Sandy Ground, Anguilla
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Approaching the wreck of the Sarah near Sandy Ground, Anguilla (Shutterstock)
The 232-foot-long Sarah sank close to Sandy Ground during Hurricane Klaus in 1984. It was floated and towed to its current position six months later, quickly becoming a popular tourist attraction and unlikely Instagram star.
8. Sweepstakes, Tobermory, Canada
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The wreck of Sweepstakes, near Tobermory (Shutterstock)
A perfectly preserved example of the kind of schooners that once plied the Great Lakes, Sweepstakes was damaged off Cove Island in August 1885 and towed to Big Tub Harbour, in Tobermory, Ontario, where it sank before it could be repaired.
Lying in clear waters at a maximum depth of twenty feet, it is one of the most picturesque wrecks in the world and a popular location for divers, snorkellersand sightseers in the Fathom Five National Marine Park.
9. U.S.S. Kittiwake, Cayman Islands
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The underwater wreck of the U.S.S. Kittiwake (Shutterstock)
Purposely sunk off Grand Cayman’s Seven Mile Beach in 2011, the U.S.S. Kittiwakeis ideal for first time wreck explorers.
The water is clear and warm, it has been stripped clean of all hazards, including doors and hatches, so there is always at least one exit point. It has a quickly become an artificial reef, attracting an abundance of colourful sea life.
10. Eduard Bohlen, Namibia
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The wreck of Eduard Bohlen on Namibia’s Skeleton Coast (Shutterstock)
Namibia’s Skeleton coast is an infamous ships’ graveyard, littered with the rusting skeletons of vessels brought undone by the treacherous conditions here.
One of the most unusual is the Eduard Bohlen.It ran aground in thick fog in 1909 and now sits 800 metres inland, left behind by the constantly shifting sands of a desert that is constantly encroaching on the sea.
11. M.V. Dimitrios, Peloponnese, Greece
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Aerial view of the Dimitrios near Gythio (Shutterstock)
Easily accessible from the sand beach at Valtaki in Greece’s Peloponnese, the small cargo ship, Dimitrios, washed ashore on 23 December 1981. How it got there remains a mystery.
It had been impounded and docked at nearby Gythio. Rumour has it that it had been used to smuggle cigarettes between Turkey and Italy and was torched to hide the evidence.
12. San Francisco Maru, Micronesia
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A diver investigating the bow deck gun on the wreck of the San Francisco Maru (Shutterstock)
Sunk in 1944 and rediscovered by Jacques Cousteau in 1969, the San Francisco Maru is known as the ‘million dollar wreck’, because of the amount a supplies it was carrying when it sank.
Lying at the bottom of the Chuuk (formerly Truk) Lagoon in Micronesia, divers can still see the tanks, trucks, mines and bombs she was carrying.
13. Omeo, Western Australia
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Aerial shot of snorkelers exploring the Omeo shipwreck near Fremantle (Shutterstock)
The Omeo is an old iron steamship that helped lay the telegram cable that linked Britain to Australia via Singapore. In 1905, it was driven ashore and wrecked at Coogee Beach near Fremantle.
It is Western Australia’s only shore based wrecked and is the star attraction of the Coogee Maritime Trail that also includes an underwater art gallery.
14. Aral Sea, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan
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Stranded boats on the sand in war was once the Aral Sea (Shutterstock)
The Aral Sea in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan is something of a graveyard for ships. After the Soviet Union diverted the rivers that flowed into the sea during the 1960s, it dried up, leaving dozens of ships stranded on the dry sea bed. Head to Muynak in Uzbekistan for the highest concentration of wrecks.
15. SS Maheno, Fraser Island, Australia
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The Maheno shipwreck at sunrise (Shutterstock)
Fraser Island, off the coast of southern Queensland, has more than its fair share of shipwrecks – 23 in total. The most famous is the SS Maheno, a 5,000 ton steamer that served as a hospital ship in World War I and sold to Japan for scrap in the 1930s.
It never made it to Japan. A cyclone washed it ashore on the Fraser island’s famous 75 mile Beach, where it has been sitting rather photogenically ever since.
Read more:
Off the radar: 7 amazing trips to the unlikeliest of destinations
1. Discover the delights of Djibouti
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Afar tents on Ghoubet beach (Shutterstock)
Venture far from the beaten track as you traverse the Djibouti landscape, float on one of the world’s saltiest lakes, and go in search of whale sharks on this extraordinary hiking and snorkelling adventure with Intrepid.
Tucked away on the Horn of Africa, Djibouti is a little-visited treasure – packed with volcanoes, hot springs, salt flats, forests and empty beaches. You’ll sleep overnight in a traditional Afar hut at Campement Touristique d’Asboley, snorkel with whale sharks in the Bay of Ghoubbet, and watch sunrise from the shores of Lac Abbe – a land of mineral chimneys, salt flats, and hot springs.
Who:Intrepid
When: Departures Nov-Feb
How long: 11 days
How much: From £2,450 (exc. flights)
2. An insider’s guide to Kosovo
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Prizren, Kosovo (Shutterstock)
Explore one of Europe’s newest and most diverse countries on this eight-day adventure through Kosovo with Regent Holidays.
Travelling with a local guide and driver, you’ll learn about medieval culture in eastern Kosovo, enjoy the Ottoman architecture of Prizren, and taste amazing wine in Rahoveci. You’ll also visit the stunning monasteries of Gracanica, Decani and Peja, and travel up the spectacular Rugova Gorge. Best of all, your guide will ensure you get to taste the local food which is delicious and largely organic.
Who:Regent Holidays
When: Flexible departures throughout the year
How long: 8 days
How much: £1,725 (inc. flights)
3. Get active in Andorra
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A road through Andorra la Vella (Shutterstock)
Nestled between France and Spain, Andorra’s breathtaking landscape is the perfect setting for thrillseekers looking for some serious adrenalin-fuelled fun. You’ll experience it all on this action-packed week in the Pyrenees with Intrepid.
Each day brings an exciting new activity. You’ll cycle along the scenic trails of Port de Cabus, the mountain pass on the Pyrenees Andorran-Spanish border; zip line across the Cortals Valley, and whitewater raft along some of Europe’s wildest rivers. There’s plenty of opportunity to sample the local culture and food too: a mix of Catalan, Spanish and French.
Trip: Andorra: Hike, Bike & Raft
Who:Intrepid
When: Departures May-Sep
How long: 8 days
How much: From £532 (exc. flights)
4. Go deep in the Caymans
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Diving amongst the corals off Grand Cayman (Shutterstock)
Discover an altogether more fascinating side to the glitzy Cayman Islands on this Caribbean diving holiday with Dive Worldwide.
The Caymans are famous for their wall diving, shipwrecks, and magnificent marine life. The waters are clear and warm,and the diving is suitable for everyone from beginners to technical divers. You’ll enjoy 20 dives over 10 days, spending a week at Sunset House on Grand Cayman and a long weekend at Little Cayman Beach Resort. A truly memorable getaway.
Trip:Discover The Caymans
Who:Dive Worldwide
When: Flexible departures throughout the years
How long: 14 days
How much: £3,245 (inc. flights)
5. Be surprised by Pakistan
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Derawar Fort (Shutterstock)
Follow the Grand Trunk Road and discover a little-travelled part of Pakistan on this Domes and Desert adventure with Oasis Overland.
Starting in Islamabad, you’ll travel to Lahore and then to the Indian border to watch the mind-boggling flag lowering ceremony. Then you’ll head south, visiting the striking Derawar Fort in the Cholistan Desert, before exploring the 5,000-year-old history of the Indus Valley. Finally, you’ll take in the sights, sounds and tastes of Karachi and its bazaars.
Trip: Pakistan – Domes & Deserts Of The Indus
Who:Oasis Overland
When: Departures Oct-Mar
How long: 17 days
How much: From £1,995 (exc. flights)
6. Uncover Uruguay’s charms
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A gaucho in Tacuarembo, Uruguay (Shutterstock)
Cross the River Plate and discover a corner of South America that very few get to see on this extraordinary journey through Uruguay with Journey Latin America.
Visiting the vibrant capital of Montevideo, along with the vineyards of Carmelo, colonial architecture of Colonia, and the trendy beach resort of Punta del Este, this trip is the perfect introduction to the undiscovered charm of Uruguay. Get there now, before the crowds arrive.
Trip: Signature Uruguay: Land of Vintage Charm
When: Departures throughout the year
How long: 14 days
How much: From £3,890 (exc. flights)
7. Discover the hidden Guianas
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Kaieteur waterfall, Guyana (Shutterstock)
Explore some of the last untouched rainforests and immerse yourself into one of the most biodiverse wildernesses on the planet on this multi-country adventure through French Guiana, Guyana and Suriname with KE Adventure Travel.
You’ll discover a lost world of river dolphins, spaceports, pristine rainforest, penal colonies and extraordinary wildlife. You’ll fly over the spectacular Kaieteur Falls – five times higher than Niagara Falls – visit Maroon and indigenous communities to learn about their fascinating culture, and savour the rich culinary heritage of the region with an exclusive chef’s tour of bustling markets. A tour for the true explorer.
When: Departures Mar, Sep & Nov
How long: 15 days
How much: From £4,695 (exc. flights)
The Wanderlust guide to diving and snorkelling
Diving and snorkelling immerses you into a floaty, contemplative world filled with mystery and colour – and often heaving with quirky marine life.
Snorkelling is an easy first step to take towards under-water diving. It is best enjoyed with at least one ‘buddy’, although it doesn’t have to be limited to just one other person – whole families can snorkel together.
Once confident snorkellers, many people want to learn to dive. One popular way to become proficient is on a specialised learn-to-dive holiday. Wherever land meets sea, you will find a diving school, which can train you to a high level of competency. Organisations such as the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), Scuba Schools International (SSI), and The British Sub Aqua Club (BSAC) have training schools teaching diving fundamentals.
A whole new world awaits. Dive in and discover it.
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Looking for inspiration?
In many parts of the world there’s an underwater wonderland just off shore. All you have to do is grab a mask and dive in. To help you out, Paul Bloomfield reveals the 10 best places in the world to go snorkelling.
Keen to go a little deeper? Then you need to learn to dive. Our online community clubbed together to list the best places to do just that. Liz Edwards has also written a piece about why she thinks Dominica is the best place to earn your fins.
With your new found skills comes new found responsibilities. The ocean is one of the world’s most fragile habitats. Lauren Arthur suggests her 6 tips on diving sustainably. And Toby Shergold explains how you can combine snorkelling and conservation in the Bay Islands in Honduras.
More information
10 of the best snorkelling destinations – Paul Bloomfield
The best places to learn to dive – Wanderlust community
Learn to dive and dry off in Dominica – Liz Edwards
6 tips on how to dive sustainably – Lauren Arthur
Snorkelling and conservation in the Bay Islands, Honduras – Toby Shergold
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A whole world of options
When it comes to diving destinations, the world is your oyster. The Great Barrier Reef in Australia is obviously an option: Monty Halls has put together a complete guide to diving there. And Ben Southall reveals 10 of its secrets. With the second longest barrier reef in the world, Belize is another firm favourite too.
Looking for somewhere even more exotic to go diving? Sarah Barrell recommends Islas del Rosario off the Colombian coast. Mark Stratton reckons you can’t beat the Philippines – with 7,114 islands you’re spoiled for choice. And how about South Africa? The Wanderlust team have listed the 5 top dive sites there.
More information
Complete guide to the Great Barrier Reef – Monty Halls
Great Barrier Reef: Top 10 secrets – Ben Southall
Discover little-visited Belize – Alex Robinson
Philippines in the sea: 12 watery adventures – Mark Stratton
Islas del Rosario: diving off Colombia’s coast – Sarah Barrell
South Africa’s top 5 diving locations – Wanderlust Team
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Go on an underwater safari
When it comes to wildlife encounters, the world’s oceans are right up there with the plains of Africa and the jungles of Borneo for excitement and variety. The Wanderlust team have put together a list of their favourite underwater wildlife encounters – from the Maldives and the Galapagos islands to the rather chilly East Antarctic Peninsula.
Need more specific suggestions? If you want to swim with turtles, Tim Ecott says you need to head to Sipadan in Malaysian Borneo. Jessica Kleiner prefers Turtle Town in Hawaii.
Whale sharks? Then you need to head to Western Australia says David McGonigal. Basking Sharks? Mark Carwardine suggests Scotland. Great White Sharks? Mark has advice on diving with those too.
William Gray, on the other hand, reckons you can’t beat swimming with rays in Tenerife. While James Stewart recommends popping over to the Cayman Islands and checking out the wildlife both on and off shore.
More information
Top 5 underwater wildlife encounters – Wanderlust Team
Your guide to snorkelling Hawaii’s famous Turtle Town – Jessica Kleiner
Underwater safari: snorkel with whale sharks in Western Australia – David McGonigal
Diving with basking sharks – Mark Carwardine
Great white expectations – Mark Carwardine
Catching rays in Tenerife – William Gray
Caymen Islands: Wildlife on and off shore – James Stewart
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Unusual dive experiences
Once you’ve had your fill of technicolour fish swimming in clear tropical waters, a number of more extreme and downright weird dive experiences await. Graihagh Jackson lists five of them, above tectonic plates, below three-metres of sea ice and along what could be the underwater remains of an ancient civilisation.
Monty Halls went in search of the world’s greatest underwater mysteries and explains how you can too. Graeme Green dives Japan’s Atlantis of the East. And we list the world’s 5 coolest underwater hotels and weirdest underwater postboxes.
More information
Top 5 unusual places to dive – Graihagh Jackson
Monty Halls on great underwater mysteries – Peter Moore
Discover Japan’s Atlantis of the East – Graeme Green
The world’s 5 coolest underwater hotels – Wanderlust Team
The world’s weirdest underwater postboxes – Wanderlust Team
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Capturing it all on film
With some of the most stunning dive sites in the world, chances are that at some point you’re going to try and capture the awesome world you’ll encounter under the sea.
There is more to underwater photography than keeping your camera dry. Steve Davey lists all the tricks, from under exposing your shots through to getting the white balance right in his top tips for underwater photography.
If it’s inspiration you’re after, make sure you check out the photos taken by our readers on their diving and snorkelling adventures.
More information
Underwater photography – Steve Davey
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Everything you need to know
Ready to start planning your trip? Our Diving and Snorkelling Guide is the place to start.
If you have a particular question about diving and snorkelling, pop over to the myWanderlust Forum where our knowledgeable community are ready to spring into action and share all that they know. Or check out the questions that have already been asked about diving and snorkelling. The answer to yours might already be there.
More information
Diving and snorkelling guide – Wanderlust Team
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Main image: Couple diving (Shutterstock)
Cayman Islands: wildlife on and off shore
It was a beautiful afternoon in a botanic park made treacly by heat and tropical flowers. A teenager, pointed out to me earlier as Ruth, caught my attention and nodded; she was steely-eyed and exotic. I returned the greeting and she sidled closer. She nodded again. Flattered, I returned the compliment. She studied me, yawned, then sauntered into the vegetation: my first chat in the argot of the Grand Cayman blue iguana and it turns out I am a crushing bore.
Is anywhere in the Caribbean so maligned as the Cayman Islands? Here it is, a tropical destination with wildlife like B-movie monsters and all outsiders want to talk about is taxes. So, let’s deal with the awkward facts first. The Cayman Islands – Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac and Little Cayman, often known collectively as Cayman, never the Caymans – are the world’s fifth-largest banking centre and its leading offshore hedge fund jurisdiction. Six corporations are listed for each of the islands’ 50,000 residents.
George Town – the only town worth the name – harbours the financial centre but its heart isn’t in it. A Florida-lite of mirrored low-rises and clapperboard giftshops, it is built on Caribbean time and warm sea breezes. Feral chickens scratch among the officeblocks. Just across the main road is spectacular Seven Mile Beach, the only tourist resort on the island.
Blue is beautiful
The tax-free status of this British Overseas Territory dates back to Oliver Cromwell’s effort to lure settlers. Yet if history suggests anything, it’s that these islands are more nature haven than the tax haven they became in the mid-1980s. Columbus wrote about seas so full of turtles he could practically walk ashore, and the islands took their name from caiman crocodiles.
Nowadays Cayman has more species of flora than the Galápagos, including three orchids found nowhere else. New species are found regularly, botanist Ann Stafford explained as we walked through one of the Caribbean’s last undisturbed subtropical forests. We were on the Mastic Trail, which cuts across the east of the island, an empty green space on my map. Ann pointed out flora such as bloody head-raw bones and red birch, whose peeling bark leads Caymanians to nickname it the ‘tourist tree’. We paused at a spindly shrub: Casearia staffordiae, one Ann had discovered herself.
The fascination of Cayman is its interplay of nature and culture, Ann told me. “Plants are part of the identity of these islands; they make them unique. We don’t have large animals but because of these plants we have an interesting diversity of wildlife.”
The world’s smallest butterfly, the pygmy blue, was presumed extinct until it turned up in Grand Cayman in 2002. Over 180 bird species make merry carnival in the canopy. And then there are those iguanas. A decade ago, all but a dozen blue iguanas had been swept away by bush clearances, cars, feral cats and local farmers who resented their taste for mangos. The species would probably have become extinct were it not for an expat National Trust officer who founded the Blue Iguana Recovery Program two decades ago.
In the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park, head warden John Marotta showed me the breeding pens like a proud father: there was 25-year-old Vegas with his teenage bride, Forrest; there was Billy and Deborah – she was about to lay. Some reptiles are aloof, others are sociable. He caught himself: “I don’t usually anthropomorphise but each animal really has a personality, more so than a dog. Never would have thought I’d say that when I came here five years ago.”
The iguanas’ party trick is to change from dirty grey to powder-blue according to body temperature and mating season. They also have baby-fat folds over clumpy feet and slow movements. If anything, they resemble clockwork dinosaurs. I was smitten. Ruth – my first encounter – is one of the breeding programme’s successes. Around 600 iguanas have been released since 2009; bred from a gene pool structured for diversity, the reptiles are nurtured in captivity for two years until old enough to be safe from predators. Today, 50 blue iguanas potter around the park grounds; 600 more stalk two reserves in east Grand Cayman. No one is celebrating just yet – scientists suggest over 1,000 wild animals are needed to be on the safe side of genetic diversity – but there is steady progress. If only more people cared about Cayman wildlife, John sighs.
Shooting fish
Visitors are not entirely ignorant of local fauna. Teetering on the edge of a 7.5km void where the Caribbean and North American tectonic plates meet, these islands are loved by divers. Reefs are a carnival of neon-lit shrimps and molluscs frilled like Regency dandies. Carousels of fish whirl around coralheads and turtles scull in the shallows.
There are over 100 wrecks to explore, from 18th-century merchant barques to the 80m USS Kittiwake scuttled last year off Seven Mile Beach. A dream-like swim through cabins bathed in slippery light as barracuda cruise past portholes, it is already the Caribbean’s premier wreck dive. You don’t even have to swim to have a close encounter of the aquatic kind. There’s a sandbar a mile offshore called Stingray City.
Fishermen once cleaned their nets in its waist-deep shallows. Now all it takes is the sound of a boat’s engine to attract stingrays the size of kitchen tables. Like being smothered in fishy wet lino, it is the weirdest wildlife encounter in the Caribbean.
Given that Cayman’s biblical motto – ‘He hath founded it upon the sea’ – sums up its tourism strategy, it was a fright when a red lionfish was discovered here in May 2008. Six breeding pairs capable of producing 500,000 young a year each were accidentally released from a Miami aquarium in 1994, and the Indo-Pacific super-predator had chomped its way along the Caribbean chain, guzzling native fry and the grazers that checked algae on coral. Marine biologists speculate lionfish may be more catastrophic than climate change for the region’s reefs.
At the fish market in George Town (actually, just a few stalls on the beach) there was no doubt about the scale of the invasion. “I been fishing ’ere for 43 years and even five years ago, nothing,” said one fisherman. “Now every coralhead, they’re there, man. Charles” – he gesticulates to a guy in salt-bleached shorts – “he got one that were 14in; about 4lb.”
Charles shrugged: “Every one I catch is one I stop my son seein’.”
“Yeah man, but that’s a big fish – ’im proper dangerous.”
Ah yes, danger. Pterois volitans is not just one of the most adaptable fish in the world, it is also one of most venomous. The poison from its 18 feathery spines can induce delirium, breathing issues, even paralysis.
Every satisfying wildlife adventure should provide a remote possibility of death or injury, I told myself as I signed the waiver to join a lionfish cull with dive operator Divetech. To combat the threat of lionfish, the Cayman government repealed an outright ban on spear-fishing for trained divers. Now dive centres run weekly hunts and anyone with a PADI licence can tag along as a spotter.
For a novice diver like me, the hour-long dive is a bargain at US$10. And when sold in Foster’s Food Fair supermarket, our catch will fund future hunts. It’s a win-win for everyone – except the lionfish, of course.
At Parson’s Reef I dropped overboard with Divetech’s Jeni Chapman, who held a spear in one hand. Flanked by armed divers, I felt like an extra in a James Bond movie. Jeni finned off so, spying a narrow channel, I kicked towards it, scouting beneath the coralheads where lionfish lurk. The trouble was, distractions were everywhere. Blue angelfish drifted among the seafans. Under ledges there were scarlet squirrelfish and lobsters, groupers and gobies. I turned to see Jeni stab beneath an overhang then thrust her spear into a cylindrical fish-tank, depositing a large lionfish. I could have sworn it looked furious.
No thanks to me, we surfaced an hour later with 26 fish for the deli counter. Once over the quiet elation at getting away scratch-free, what surprised me was how protective I felt toward the reefs. “I am the most placid person you could meet,” Jeni agreed, “and now I’m an expert at slaughtering fish. But these culls really work – we see tangible results.” She adds sotto voce: “They’re also a little bit fun.”
The island before time
The next day I soar over those seas – palest aqua then azure, royal blue and blue-black – on a Twin Otter bound for Cayman Brac. With a population of just 2,000, it makes George Town feel like Miami. Return the car anywhere outside the airport and leave the keys inside, the hire company manager instructed me. Locked? I asked. “Nah, man; open’s fine. This is the Brac.”
I barely used the car. Every visitor to Cayman Brac receives a free personal tour with a government nature guide; mine,Keino, was happy to show me the sights for as long as I liked.
‘Brac’ in Gaelic refers to the ‘bluff’ of limestone that gives this 19km-long island its unusually rugged good looks. We circuit its impressive slab, peering at bats in caves and pottering on lanes while Keino chats about island culture. He mentions the birdlife, and adds that no species is more prized among spotters than the Cayman Brac parrot. And so began our wild parrot chase. With a sprightly septuagenarian birder called Wallace, we followed old fishermen’s footpaths in the National Trust-owned Brac Parrot Reserve.
Wallace happily recounted past exploits in search of the 350 remaining birds and stared intently at the mango trees where parrots feed. There was a flicker of excitement in the Christopher Columbus Park when a rasp in the canopy answered Wallace’s call but our parrot was shy.
I was disappointed – until we drove to the 80m cliffs of the eastern tip. Silver-thatch palms, the national tree of Cayman, burst above thick wild jasmine and the sky and sea busted the horizon on every side. Hundreds of brown boobies nursed puffball chicks on cliff-edge nests while frigate birds hovered on bent wings like pterodactyls.
“This part has probably changed least since Columbus came,” Wallace said. Only 500 years? It felt like the dawn of time.
Unprotected idyll
Little Cayman is wilder still. Ten minutes away on the Twin Otter, it is the same size as Brac but has just 150 inhabitants. Its airport is a large shed whose sign reads ‘Terminal A, Gate 1’; ‘Town’ is barely a hamlet.
Elsewhere all is swathes of undisturbed spiky green. I spent most of my time barefoot on a bike, zigzagging one-handed along empty roads. What Little Cayman has in abundance is wildlife. Around 20,000 red-footed boobies squawk in and around Booby Pond and Jamaican whistling ducks flute in lagoons.
Hawksbill turtles nest on dazzling-white beaches and there’s astonishing diving where Bloody Bay Wall drops into inky depths.
The island has its own iguana, too: the Sister Isles rock iguana, virtually extinct on Brac. The 1,000-odd reptiles have the right of way on roads I learned on another free tour.
My guide, Mike, a dreadlocked Floridian, came on an iguana conservation programme and never left. “Only 4% of this island is developed,” he told me. “That’s incredible so close to the US. Yet it’s also worrying: there’s no protection for the other 96%.”
I was surprised a destination so protective of its marine environment seemed so indifferent to land use. But then I realised it may be because us outsiders also have a blind spot. Marine parks are created because people want to visit them. No one sees these islands as a place to experience tropical forests or wild beaches where turtles breed.
Mike turned down a dirt-track. There was nothing around us but silvery palms, wild jasmine and orchids that exploded like popcorn. An iguana dozed nearby. Not quite no one, I thought.
Local views
Alberto, Blue Iguana Reserve warden
“The east is authentic Grand Cayman. Walk, take your time and you’ll see parrots, nature, proper Caribbean stuff you’ll see nowhere else. And you have to come and see us, of course.”
Mike, iguana guide, Little Cayman
“Many people visit and only dive or think they have everything in a resort. Take a bike and see the island for what it really is: see its nature, its wild orchids and its tranquillity.”
Keino, wildlife guide, Cayman Brac
“Get to know the locals. It takes no effort cos everyone is really eager to help – I sometimes think they love tourists more than islanders. They’ll help you, take care of you, bring you a fish. It’s a Brac thing.”
5 animals back from the brink of extinction
Having heard plenty of horror stories about wildlife recently, we’ve decided to inject some positive news with a list of animals making a comeback. From cute and fluffy to colossal and majestic, these animals are no longer on the brink of extinction and are great examples of how successful conservation efforts can be.
Blue iguana
The Grand Cayman Islands’ blue iguana was only recently downgraded from Critically Endangered to Endangered on the IUCN’s Red List.
A decade ago, there were only 10 to 25 of these remarkable turquoise reptiles left on the planet. Thanks to the efforts of the Blue Iguana Recovery Program, coordinated by the National Trust for the Cayman Islands, more than 500 captive-bred adults have been released into the wild since 2002.
The recovery programme involves captive breeding, habitat protection, research and monitoring. With so few numbers, many were sceptical that the island’s namesake iguana would survive, so this is a great success story for conservation.
1. Gharial crocodiles
The only surviving members of an ancient group of crocodiles, the Gharial is predominantly found in India’s deep rivers. These unique looking crocodiles have much narrower jaws than their cousins, with an elongated snout and needle-like teeth.
There are thought to have been between five and ten thousand individuals in the wild in the 1940s. Hunted for their skin and eggs, numbers quickly dwindled. In 2008, the number of adult gharials in the wild dropped to 100.
The lack of rain throughout India this year has been a significant turning point for the gharial. Unhindered by the floods that usually wipe out a large number of their eggs, more than 2,000 young have reportedly hatched. Thanks to the conservation efforts of India’s National Chambal Sanctuary, there are now thought to be 1,500 adults and juveniles in the wild; not including this year’s hatchlings.
2. Black-footed ferret
Thought to be globally extinct, the black-footed ferret was rediscovered near Meeteetse in Wyoming when a dog brought his owners a ‘gift’ in 1981. The only ferret native to North America, their main prey are prairie dogs who they hunt in their burrows before adopting their homes.
Following an intensive search, researchers discovered just under 130 black-footed ferrets in Meeteetse. With a break-out of sylvatic plague in 1985, biologists decided to capture some of the ferrets in order to ensure their survival. Following reintroduction, it is believed that there are now well over 1,000 black-footed ferrets in the wild today.
3. Humpback whale
The whaling industry led to a massive decline in all species of whale, although thankfully none were hunted to extinction.
The humpback whales’ numbers recovered rapidly when a global ban was placed on whaling. Humpbacks are many traveller’s favourite whale to watch. They are the most easily identifiable and aside from their mysterious songs, they frequently jump, breach and displaying their vast tail fin (fluke). They migrate epic distances every year from summer feeding grounds near the poles to warmer winter breeding waters.
Their numbers have recovered to such an extent that they are now a ‘least concern’ on the IUCN’s Red List of endangered species.
4. Kakapo parrot
The world’s heaviest parrot, the Kakapo, faced extinction when in 1995 there were only 50 known surviving birds on a handful of small island sanctuaries off the coast of New Zealand. Human colonisation and the introduction of foreign predators such as stoats, cats and rats caused the numbers of Kakpo to plummet.
This ground-dwelling, flightless parrot has a subsonic mating boom that can travel several kilometres. Although they now number over 126 in the wild, they are not yet out of the woods. By isolating these slow moving birds on smaller islands away from speedy predators, conservationists have ensured their continued survival.
5. Golden lion tamarin
In the running as Brazil’s mascot for the 2016 Olympics, the recovery of the golden lion tamarin, also known as the golden marmoset, is a success story of international collaboration. It is the only primate to have been declared extinct in the wild and then successfully reintroduced.
With a large proportion of their habitat destroyed, landowners and farmworkers learned how to make a living from the trees that the squirrel-sized monkeys depend on to survive. Consequently, the population has grown to 1,700 in Rio de Janeiro state, the only place that they can be found in the wild.
The Olympics could go even further to help this strikingly coloured primate as the city has promised to plant 24 million trees in an attempt to carbon-offset the games.
And one more success… bald eagle
In 1967, there were fewer than 450 nesting pairs of bald eagles in the United States. The use of DDT (an insecticide) following World War II was largely responsible for their decline; poisoning the fish that are their main food source. Having to resort to livestock for prey, many were shot by farmers.
Completely wiped out in some areas, a captive breeding programme worked to repopulate the endangered bird that is the symbol of the United States. The eagle has now been de-listed and is no longer classified as endangered.
Bald eagles remain protected and cannot be killed, captured or harassed. Laws in the US also protect the trees and key waterways that the eagles rely on for nesting and hunting.
Caribbean Travel Blueprint: the alternative guide
There are many clichés to turn an independent traveller off the Caribbean. The migratory flocks of package holidaymakers settling on beaches, barely knowing which country they’re in. Factory-style hotels muscling in on any section of beachfront. All-inclusive compounds that actually tell their guests ‘it’s dangerous out there’.
But clichés are a tired shorthand, and often the facts are worth examining afresh. Certainly you should in the Caribbean, because beyond the shoreside screen of coconut oil and palms, you will find a region packed with unexpected interest and variety. Neighbouring islands speak French, Dutch and English, drive on the right and the left, use the euro, the florin and the East Caribbean (and usually the US) dollar. They drink Guinness, champagne, rum and Heineken.
Feel the rhythm
The region is perhaps best known for its music. Like harmonics, different rhythms resonate along the island string. Reggae and soca, zouk and salsa. Others emanate wistfully from the past – ska, biguine and calypso. All are underpinned by African drums and are compulsively danceable – and burst forth at carnivals and countless other events.
Many of the Caribbean islands are exceptionally attractive, both for well-known reasons – the beaches – but also for less-known landscapes of tropical forests and mountains, rich in flora and birdlife. British West Indian history is tortured but desperately romantic. Wooden plantation estate houses and vast fortresses stand in tropical greenery, near stone parish churches that would look at home in Dorset. Combine this with a visit to a French island, say, where shoppers wave baguettes in the street and postmen ride Mobylettes, and you have an unexpectedly lively mix.
It is enlightening to tease out the strains of a colonial past, but there is more than this. There is creole. This evocative word, originally applied to a native West Indian of European and African descent, has come to signify something more than the sum of its constituent parts, something specifically Caribbean. Faces, food, languages and religions are all creole. It is the spirit of the Caribbean.
Backyards of the famous
Jamaica is simply one of the coolest places in the world, and among the Caribbean’s most attractive islands. Switch on Irie FM, the culture reggae station, and drive up through the Blue Mountains (from Kingston), where you will find a gracious, gentle life, with botanical gardens, superb birdlife and excellent hiking. You will come to Portland parish and its capital Port Antonio in the north-east, which is lovely, unbelievably fertile and quiet. Rafting the Rio Grande might seem touristy, but it really is magical. Or head south from resort-heavy Montego Bay to Treasure Beach, which has a trusty Jamaican vibe. On the west coast there are the charming clifftop hotels of Negril, and inland the historic wilderness of Cockpit Country.
Barbados is the stalwart holiday destination for many Britons, who tend to head for the west coast if they are wealthy and the south coast on a package. The east coast is where the Barbadians themselves once went on holiday and it retains an unpretentious charm. Inland you will find riffling fields of sugar cane and some classic plantation houses. You may not go to watch the stars, but the restaurants and bars where they spend their time offer good food. Somewhat unexpectedly for the Caribbean, Barbados is one of a handful of islands (Anguilla, St Barths and St Martin) where you can really expect to eat well.
The Dominican Republic is Latin Caribbean life taken to a higher degree. Santo Domingo contains the oldest buildings in the Western hemisphere, and has a great attitude and a traditional feel. Avoid touristy Puerto Plata and Sosua. Instead head for Cabarete, famous for its windsurfing, or the beaches of the Samana peninsula, with their handful of stylish small hotels.
St Lucia has grown popular over the past decade. If its superstructure is British, at core it is French creole. It is an immensely beautiful island, so touring independently is worthwhile: the hiking (up the Pitons if you like; see right) is good and the fetes (as parties are known) are excellent. Don’t miss ‘Fish Fridays’ at the ramshackle village of Gros Islet – a weekly jump-up of food and festivity.
Unvisited islands
Hardly anyone goes here – which is why you should be the exception
The truculent Soufrière Hills volcano has muscled Montserrat off the tourist radar for the past decade, but flights and yacht excursions continue to this sweet, quiet spot from neighbouring Antigua. Sadly Plymouth, the pretty capital, has been destroyed, but there are tours of the volcano observatory and the old Air recording studios (Dire Straits, The Police, Rolling Stones). The island also offers great value accommodation in a handful of guesthouses and villas: groups of 4+ can pay US$175 (£104) or less per person per week off-season.
Redonda, a lump of rock next door, is the stuff of mystical and literary legend. It was claimed in 1865 by a Matthew Shiell, a poet, who appointed himself king. Later courtiers included JB Priestley and Rebecca West. The royal line, often sold for a bottle of wine, is hotly disputed and exercises all sorts of adults in a delightfully childish way.
British travellers have never known the Dutch Caribbean well, which makes the ABCs (Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao, just off Venezuela) and SSS islands (Saba, Statia and St Maarten, in the north-eastern Caribbean) interesting in their own right. Bonaire is excellent for its diving and Curaçao has an exceptionally strong island culture. Aruba has superb sand, but it has gone for Miami Beach high-rise style and volume tourism. Similarly, half-Dutch, half-French St Maarten is a tourist and gambling den, though there are some good independent spots to escape to (eg Simpson Bay) and you can certainly eat well. Once so wealthy that it was called the Golden Rock, St Eustatius (Statia) is small and uninspiring nowadays, but Saba, which also has excellent diving, is unfeasibly pretty – nearly every house is gingerbread and they all have a red roof.
Haiti is simply the most extraordinary, most extreme Caribbean island. It takes familiar strains from around the islands and amplifies them to a blare – at moments a screech, at others a melody. The poverty is more extreme here, but out of it comes more explosive joy than you can imagine. Haitian primitive art is exceptional. The French roots are evident, in food and Catholicism, but in language the local creole (Kweyol) tongue is harder baked, as is their local religion, voodoo.
Island-hopping itineraries
Why stick to one Caribbean island when you can skip between several? Here’s our pick of the hops
St Vincent through the Grenadines to Grenada by ferry
The Grenadines are a chain of small island gems anchored by the ‘large’ Windwards of St Vincent and Grenada. With ten days and a bit of patience you can make the whole journey by boat. Fly via Barbados into Kingstown on St Vincent, then take an hour-long ferry ride to Bequia (‘beck-way’), as picture-perfect as a Cornish village transported to the tropics. Bequia is a popular sailing stopover, so has good bars and restaurants. Next catch the twice-weekly MV Barracuda mailboat to Canouan or to tiny Mayreau for classic Caribbean small-island life. Then to Union Island – dubbed the ‘train station of the Grenadines’ – to fix your onward journey to Carriacou and, vitally, for a side trip to the Tobago Cays, five uninhabited islands with superb snorkelling and sand. A twice-weekly boat crosses (if you can’t hitch a ride on a yacht) to Carriacou, Grenada’s sand-rimmed, laid-back alter-ego. When you just have to leave, end your journey in the Caribbean’s prettiest harbour, the amphitheatrical St George’s, Grenada.
The islands around Guadeloupe
Guadeloupe and its islands are a geographical confusion: the westerly Basse-Terre (‘low ground’) region actually rises to 1,500m, while easterly Grande-Terre (‘tall ground’) is basically flat – and the neighbouring ‘Saints’ are far too pretty to be saintly. But together they offer a great ferry-driven ten-day French creole tour. There is all the coquetry, cuisine and nonchalance of the French, but in the tropics. Fly into functional Pointe-à-Pitre and head straight for verdant Basse-Terre, with its excellent small independent hotels, isolated coves with beach bars, diving and lovely plantations. Next visit Les Saintes, best for their quiet, vertiginous prettiness, then Marie-Galante, the island named after Columbus’s flagship, which is flat and sandy – with, reputedly, the finest rum and parties in the Caribbean. Finish up on the southern coast of Grande-Terre, where a handful of smaller beach hotels compete with the big chains.
Trinidad & Tobago
Like sisters, Trinidad and Tobago are visibly of the same stock, but have different characters, though both are lively and relaxed in equal parts. Take ten days between them, hopping on the short flight or the Port of Spain-Scarborough ferry. In Port of Spain (Trinidad) visit a panyard to see a steel band practise, a calypso tent for satirical story-singing, or party at Mardi Gras. Trinidad’s birdlife is exceptional: over 400 species – visit Mt St Benedict or Asa Wright Nature Centre. Grand Rivière in the north-east, with its handful of independent inns, is a quiet, cool stopover. On Tobago, head first for the easy eastern end, with its spectacular diving and rainforest trips. Then spend your final days at the livelier west, where there is good independent accommodation on classic beaches.
French Creole
Guadeloupe, Dominica and Martinique form a line of forested titans linked by hydrofoil (www.express-des-iles.com), meaning you can mix and match, taking your pick and spending a few days in each. They were all French once – Dominica and St Lucia were subsequently taken by the British – but you still hear creole. They also exchange music – mainly zouk and soca. Start in Guadeloupe, then catch the catamaran to Dominica, simple and undeveloped by comparison, with pretty ‘skirt and shirt’ (stone and wood) buildings in Roseau and some of the most extreme greenery man can witness (though only a few beaches). Martinique is suddenly developed by comparison, all autoroutes and sophistication – and history in Gauguin and Napoleon’s Josephine. For quieter spots, seek out Les Anses-d’Arlet and the Caravelle peninsula. St Lucia is the next island in line, and makes a good final flourish – or an alternative starting point thanks to good air services.
Puerto Rico, Vieques & Culebra
Puerto Rico is a boggling mix of Anglo and Latino, modernity and simple West Indies, busy city and easy island life – and ideal for exploration. Old colonial San Juan has streets of pretty restored buildings, and offers museum and cultural interest by day (this is the oldest corner of the US) and buzzing nightlife. Then set off, driving (of course – this is the States) to explore. Not far from the city you will find coffee factories, restored Arawak settlements and Arecibo, the largest satellite dish in the world – it sought out quasars and pulsars. Lastly the beach. Oddly, the finest are actually offshore, a short flight or ferry ride away, on Puerto Rico’s tiny islands, Vieques (the fallback home of the Royal Navy in the Second World War) and Culebra, which has good sailing. Both have a small-island air, Latin-style. Vieques boasts a spectacular phosphorescent lagoon.