Salla: An enchanted snowscape in the Arctic Circle

Beat the Winter Blues by diving into the polar night

With typical Finnish humour Salla turns the phrase ‘in the middle of nowhere’ on its head: its vast frozen wilderness, polar nights and electric skies combined with adventure is pure enchantment.

Almost 67° North, Salla is tucked just inside the Arctic Circle on the Russian border. Its ice and snow-bound forests and fells offer not just solitude, pure winter air and frozen Doctor Zhivago-esque landscapes, but also thrilling excursions beneath night skies alive with meteor showers and the aurora. No wonder Salla, with its old-growth forests, rocky ravines, swamps, lakes and empty uplands, has just been awarded national park status. With less than one inhabitant per square kilometre, you’re more likely to meet reindeer than humans. Leave the noise of city life behind and discover why Finns love silence and barely suffer from Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) – even on dark days – as the snow reflects light.

Drive your own reindeer sleigh (Timo Tuuha / Salla)

Snowshowing in Salla (Eeva Mäkinen / Salla)

Get close to nature at Salla ski resort (Jonne Vaahtera / Salla)

Fatbiking in the snow (Daniel Taipale / Salla)

Snowmobile adventure in Salla (Arctic Circle Safaris / Salla)

Restaurant Kiela (Salla)

Sallatunturin Tuvat (Salla)

Drive your own reindeer sleigh (Timo Tuuha / Salla)

Snowshowing in Salla (Eeva Mäkinen / Salla)

Get close to nature at Salla ski resort (Jonne Vaahtera / Salla)

Fatbiking in the snow (Daniel Taipale / Salla)

Snowmobile adventure in Salla (Arctic Circle Safaris / Salla)

Restaurant Kiela (Salla)

Sallatunturin Tuvat (Salla)

Reindeer adventures in pastel snowscapes

Reindeers grunting with bells ringing

Drive your own reindeer sleigh through Salla Wilderness Park. Follow your guide through forest, the sun spilling liquid-gold on the horizon, snow-laden trees tipped pink. Stop to feed the reindeer and their young, and warm up by an outdoor firepit.

On full-day trips, you can enjoy lunch in a kota, a traditional Lappish hut, and learn how to lasso a reindeer. For a truly magical experience, take a reindeer ride at night when the northern lights dance across the sky, weather conditions permitting.

Take a reindeer ride at night under the northern lights (Salla Reindeer Park / Salla)

Take a reindeer ride at night under the northern lights (Salla Reindeer Park / Salla)

Other ways to explore the 200 hectares of Salla Wilderness Park are to forest ski, snow-shoe or take a husky ride.

Hiking in the twilight zone

As the sun hovers on the horizon of Salla either side of mid-day, sunrise and sunset almost seem to merge. The softened light, pastel-streaked skies and light-giving snowscapes are surprisingly bright and invigorating. The ‘winter blues’ (purples and pinks) are something to embrace. 

A hike up the north Sallatunturi fell (Iso-Pyhätunturi) is a meditation in nature. Meander through forest, boardwalk and the rock-strewn heights. The branches of tapered ‘candle spruces’ and Christmas firs bend under the weight of snow. Birches shimmer silver. Forest gives way to dwarfed vegetation and heath on the upper slopes. On top, an observation tower looks more like an ice-palace. Look out across the newly appointed national park, empty taiga dipping and rising to the Russian border and beyond. Wildlife is all around but mostly out of sight as animals and insects seek warmth under a layer of snow. You may spot a snow-white mountain hare, pale willow grouse or Salla’s emblem, the capercaillie. If extremely lucky, you might glimpse the elusive elk.

Winter walking trails in Salla (Daniel Taipale / Salla)

Winter walking trails in Salla (Daniel Taipale / Salla)

From prepared winter paths (easily walked in normal winter boots) to off-piste snow-shoe hikes and forest skiing, there are hundreds of kilometres of marked winter trails in Salla. Guides and equipment are available for rent.

Downhill skiing on the fell

With accommodation and restaurants right at the bottom of the ski slope, excellent ski facilities, 15 slopes and seven lifts, Salla was awarded Ski Resort of the Year 2021 in Finland. You can’t help but feel close to nature in Salla’s small and carefully managed eco-friendly resort.

Skiiing on the fell (Joonas Linkola / Salla)

Skiiing on the fell (Joonas Linkola / Salla)

 Fatbike adventures in the dark

By mid-afternoon twilight turns to pitch-black in the polar night.  Laplanders, happiest outdoors in nature, simply embrace the dark. Rent an e-fatbike and book a guide. Ascending the forest track, the cold air is still. Snow muffles the snowbound trees and forest floor, the silence absorbing. Everything feels bright and light under the night sky.  You concentrate on your breathing and keeping the handlebars straight in the narrow tracks while feeling your way through the snow by the narrow beam of light cast by your bike. On top of the fell, the ski slope lights twinkle on the other side of the valley. On clear nights, the aurora borealis shimmers green, sometimes electric blue, purple and pink. Glass-cut stars sprinkle the heavens and meteor showers shoot across the Earth. Dropping off the fell, it’s even harder to keep your fatbike in the groove. You focus on the moment, worries forgotten. There’s just the here and now, ethereal and otherworldly.

Helen went fatbiking under the night sky (Helen Moat)

Helen went fatbiking under the night sky (Helen Moat)

There are three winter biking trails to choose from: Kaunisharju and Ruuhitunturi tracks are both 12 km long; Pahakuru, 16 km.

Moonlight safari by snowmobile

Snowmobile making noise as it passes

Head out into the descending darkness of the Lappish day on an Arctic Circle Safari. This is not a silent adventure; the snow mobiles whine and groan as they labour around curves and negotiate the rise and dip of forest. Eerie white trees loom out of shadows, the forest trail bathed in electric white from the machines’ lights. It’s an adrenalin-filled trip to an ice-encrusted observation post at a high point with Ruuhitunturin Café below it. The quiet, dimly-lit hut contrasts the noise and thrills of the snowmobile ride. Enjoy a munkki, a buttery deep-fried doughnut with coffee or hot chocolate in the wood-encased cabin. You can also hike to the off-grid cabin next door for an immersive overnight wilderness experience. Bring a sleeping bag.

Snowmobile adventure in Salla (@Kea Creutz / Salla)

Snowmobile adventure in Salla (@Kea Creutz / Salla)

Tasting the Arctic

Salla prides itself in its organic, locally produced fare, continuing its centuries-old hunter-gatherer existence. Autumn days are filled with berry picking: lingonberry, bilberry, cloudberry, cranberry, raspberry and Arctic bramble. Locally pick herbs such as wild thyme to add flavour to Salla dishes. Laplanders know where to find the tastiest forest-floor mushrooms from chanterelles to milkcaps. Lapland’s bountiful lakes and rivers yield pike, perch, whitefish, rainbow trout and salmon. The preserved wild foods of summer and autumn are enjoyed throughout winter. The farmed but semi-wild reindeer, cooked every way imaginable, is on the menu year-round. Moose (the European elk) and bear is a Lappish speciality.

If transferring from Rovaniemi Airport, drop into Mestarin Kievarin in Kemijärvi for some of the best locally sourced food in the region. Try smoked and salted pike with rye bread as a starter, reindeer fillet with thyme sauce and white fish with morel sauce as a main. Lappish cheese sautéed in cream with Arctic cloudberries is the food of the gods.

Right on the ski slope, Keloravintola offers delicious comfort food including reindeer or smoked salmon pizza and triple-smoked moose burger.

Close by, Kiela Restaurant serves up the Arctic with all its tangy flavour. Wild herbs, mushrooms, fresh fish and reindeer – from tongue to blood cakes (black pudding) – are all on the menu. Try the winter apple stewed in red wine and cinnamon.

Sallatunturin Tuvat, Restaurant Kiela (Salla)

Sallatunturin Tuvat, Restaurant Kiela (Salla)

Cosying indoors

Like all Scandinavians, Finnish Laplanders know how to create hygge in winter. From the forest cabins to the Holiday Club apartments right by the ski slopes, comfortable contemporary accommodation offers soft lighting, a sauna and log burner – especially welcoming after days out in sub-zero temperatures. Take advantage of the Revonturi à la carte restaurant for dinner (and breakfast) and the spa with its ceiling-to-floor windows overlooking the fells.

Living room in Sallatunturin Tuvat (Kari Koskimaa / Salla)

Living room in Sallatunturin Tuvat (Kari Koskimaa / Salla)

Now go there…

Finnair flies from London Heathrow to Helsinki with connecting flights to Rovaniemi and Kuusamo airports. Rent a car or travel by bus to the ski resort.

Find out more with Visit Salla and Visit Finland.

Helen Moat was a guest of Finnair, Visit Finland and Visit Salla.