Malta vs Madeira: Which should you visit?

Malta

A sunrise view of Malta’s capital, Valletta (Dreamstime)

Population: 475,700

Size: 316 sq km

Famous for: Medieval architecture and coastal resorts

Expect: A busy events calendar, Knights Hospitaller relics and outdoor thrills

Madeira

Looking towards the town of Camara de Lobos in Madeira (Dreamstime)

Population: 254,876

Size: 801 sq km

Famous for: Fortified wine and Cristiano Ronaldo

Expect: Island beauty, festivals and an adventurous feel that belies its go-slow reputation

Culture

The Blue Lagoon on Malta’s Camino Island (Shutterstock)

This middle-of-the-Med archipelago is made up of three main islands – lively Malta, laid-back Gozo (pictured) and virtually unpopulated Comino – all of which are layered with cultural influences.

Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs and the British are among those to have held sway here, resulting in a uniquely Maltese mix.

A Portuguese island region that sits almost twice as close to the African coast as it does to Lisbon, Madeira is essentially a subtropical outpost of Europe in the Atlantic.

You’ll therefore find a version of Portuguese culture – great food, old-world architecture, lots of festivals – played through the prism of island life.

Day trips

At the right time of year, you can enjoy dolphin and whale watching trips from Madeira (Shutterstock)

In Malta, the UNESCO-listed city of Valletta, Europe’s smallest capital, is the noble legacy of the medieval Knights Hospitaller and has a Grand Harbour as spectacular as you’ll find anywhere.

Elsewhere, Mdina is a fortified city brimming with its own history, while over on Gozo, the Ġgantija temples date back to megalithic times.

Madeira’s capital city Funchal has bags of charm, although its flower gardens (pictured) and produce markets are perhaps best enjoyed when cruise-ship groups aren’t in town.

Elsewhere, off-road jeep trips are a great way of sampling the scenery, and there’s also dolphin- and whale-watching (at its best between April and October).

Eating

A plate of Maltese seafood (Shutterstock)

The Maltese love their food. Drawing on flavours and traditions from the Med, North Africa and beyond, Malta’s cuisine reflects its crossroads location.

Fresh seafood features heavily, as do island delicacies such as gbejna (sheep’s cheese), pastizzi (savoury stuffed pastry) and imqaret (a sweet date-filled pastry).

Madeira is synonymous with the fortified wine that’s been made here for centuries. It’s stickily lovely stuff – and the food’s pretty good, too.

Classic dishes include espetada (skewered beef prepared with garlic and salt then wood-fired) and grilled tuna, while the local bolo de mel (honey cake; pictured) hits the spot.

Outdoor activities

Hiking in Madeira (Shutterstock)

Malta has 300 annual days of sunshine to shout about, so its al fresco appeal is something of a given.

Cyclists (pictured), rock climbers, kitesurfers, kayakers and hikers all have ample excuse to book a trip here, while the scuba-dive sites are some of the best in Europe, with reefs, wrecks, caves and clear waters.

Madeira’s sumptuous landscape is arguably its top draw.

Covered in lush valleys, volcanic peaks and forested slopes, it’s also laced with some 2,000km of levadas – man-made waterways that double as walking trails.

Mountain biking and canyoning are further draws, while the Atlantic swell also attracts surfers.

The verdict

Both Malta and Madeira have suffered from rather staid reputations in years gone by – well, not any more. If you’re in search of some short-haul island adventure, both now offer superb opportunities for travellers.

True, Malta perhaps has the edge in terms of historical drama and Madeira has an altogether grander, rawer feel to its scenery, but neither of these edge-of-Europe getaways are going to leave you feeling short-changed.

Read more on Malta and Madeira:

9 amazing must-dos when you’re in Madeira

The best things you can do on the island of Gozo

How to spend a 3-day mini break in Madeira

Go now: Madeira

Shake it like a Polaroid picture!” my guide shouted as our Jeep juddered over mountainous off-road terrain on our journey from Madeira’s rural north to the equally hilly but sun-kissed south.

Each jolt from my seat was made easier by the views sweeping dramatically down the mountains to the villages below, towards the unending ocean. So high up that my ears almost pop, it becomes obvious that Madeira is far from a fly-and-flop destination. Almost everything in the island’s rural north is an assault on the senses, smacking you with just about every element.

You’ll emerge with salt-encrusted skin after several invigorating hours of often-fruitful whale- and dolphin-watching on the glowy blue waters off Machico. Hiking along any of the island’s levada trails, which together cover more than 2,000km, is likely to leave you covered calf-down in mud. And thanks to Madeira’s multiple microclimates, you never know what weather you’re going to get – but it’s practically guaranteed you’ll get drenched at some point.

It’s an intense reprieve from the monotony of lockdown, and it’s easy to let go and enjoy given that Madeira’s handled the COVID-19 pandemic swiftly. There have been few cases on the island – in part due to its rigorous approach to testing – that if it weren’t for the mandatory mask-wearing, you’d forget there was a virus at all. On arrival, you’ll be swabbed then go off to isolate until your result is emailed to you 12 hours later. At which point, the island is yours…

Madeira does health crises and adventure well, but in the island’s south, things are more relaxed, with the weather more favourable for a warm winter getaway. The underrated capital, Funchal, is known for its art, Gothic cathedral, boutique hotels and a variety of festivities along Avenida Arriaga. Lingering south, you’ll find the pretty village of Ponta do Sol, with plenty of local delicacies – try the black scabbard fish or sweet fortified wine – and tumbling coastal scenery along the way. That Polaroid camera will need more film in it.

Take a hike

Levadas form the backbone of some of the island’s finest hikes (Shutterstock)

Little seems less fascinating than a water supply system, but Madeira’s unique, open-air irrigation channels – called levadas – form the backbone of some of the island’s finest hikes. One of the best is the Levada do Rei: an 11km, four-hour trek through dense forest in the north.

You’ll encounter lily of the valley (among other native flora), tackle tight spots and tunnels (in non-slip walking boots, please), walk directly under a natural waterfall (these, surprisingly, are a fairly common roadside sight in Madeira) and turn back to your starting point after reaching the trickling Ribeiro Bonito stream.

The forest itself is unique, too: Madeira’s subtropical Laurissilva is UNESCO-protected, for it remains the largest area of laurel forest left on planet earth.

The numbers

4

The number of seasons you’ll experience in just one day while you’re in Madeira, as the locals will often warn you, thanks to its 20-plus microclimates. One minute: sun. Next minute: torrential downpour. Layer up!

57

Madeira island’s length (in km) from Ponte de São Lourenço in the east to Ponte do Pargo at its western point.

700

Career goals scored by local pride and joy, Cristiano Ronaldo, as of Aug ’20. Born in Funchal, the footballer went on to play for Man Utd, Real Madrid and Juventus. You’ll see ‘CR7’ all over the island, including in his own museum. Even the airport dons his name and image.

If you only do three things… Enjoy Madeira’s wonders of nature

Watch Whales

Set off from Machico Marina to spot – depending on the season – sperm, fin and pilot whales. Dolphins are also common, as are seabirds, including numerous shearwater and petrel species. madeirawildlife.com

Marvel at natural lava pools

The region of Porto Moniz, in Madeira’s north-west corner, is home to Instagram-worthy saltwater pools formed over thousands of years by volcanic lava. Going for a dip is encouraged.

Look down at Lomdo do Mouro

Lombo do Mouro is perhaps the most spectacular viewpoint on the island. Hiking tours are available, though we recommend driving with a guide on a jeep safari with Adventure Land.

5 reasons to visit Madeira

One of the best (and only) quarantine-free places UK travellers can visit for some autumn or winter heat, Madeira is undoubtedly having a moment in the sun.

An autonomous Atlantic region of Portugal set over 1,000km away from the mainland, its key restriction for travellers is a COVID test on arrival, the results of which are sent to your email 12 hours later. Travel in the late afternoon or evening, take your test, isolate while you sleep, awake to your result. Then, you can set off and explore.

Here are just five reasons to visit…

1. Its unique levada walks

Trail at Levada Do Rei through an ancient laurel forest, Madeira, Portugal (Shutterstock)

Levadas form Madeira’s unique water irrigation system. Though immediately you may not be awestruck by the concept – developed on the island when the drier southern parts of the island required water from the north – they’re actually rather interesting.

These slim, open-air channels have been dug into the ground since the 16th century, with some built as recently as 1940. Each channel carries flowing water around the island. Today, walking alongside one, on a designated trek, is considered a must-do while you’re in Madeira.

Perhaps one of the best-known is the Levada do Rei walk (also known as PR18 – each walk has its own code). The 11km trek takes between three to four hours, and this, unlike others, is a completely linear route, meaning you’ll be turning back on yourself to get back to your starting point. On the Levada do Rei, you’ll reach dizzying heights (watch out for altitude sickness), stand close to clouds, admire endless, rich green laurissilva forest, walk under a waterfall and navigate some tight tunnels.

Other options include the moderately difficult PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes, starting in Ribiero Firo (and perhaps the best-loved of all levadas), or PR10 Levada do Furado, another moderate 11km walk which ends with a dazzling descent into Portela village.

2. Funchal, the underrated capital city

The famous botanical conservatory garden in Funchal, Madeira, Portugal (Shutterstock)

The impossibly picturesque city of Funchal will often be the first port of call: the only airport on the island is near the city centre, the runway seemingly hanging off the edge of a cliff. Surrounding it are towering hills covered completely in orange-roofed houses. It’s quite an overwhelming first-look.

Wandering around (and hopefully, staying in one of its boutique hotels) and you’ll quickly discover plenty of wonderful things to see and do. The first, and most obvious, being Madeira’s premier botanical garden – small in size, but dramatic to view, particularly from a height, where its green-and-purple flora display leads on to a dramatic view over the island. Santa Catarina Park and Monte Palace Madeira also offer the chance to see art, nature and design combine.

Once you’ve paid a visit to Funchal Market, its famous cathedral, ridden the cable car and strolled down the pleasant and colourful Rua de Santa Maria you’ll probably be exhausted. If you’ve time, visit the Cristiano Ronaldo Museum – the island-born footballer may as well be Madeira’s patron saint, at this point. Rest up, and drive 35 minutes or so to Pico de Arieiro, the highest peak on the entire island.

3. The food (particularly, seafood)

Black scabbard (espada) in a fish market (Shutterstock)

With mainland Portugal visits off the cards (unless, of course, you can meet the necessary criteria for visiting), you’ll be pleased to know that the petite custard tarts (pastel de nata) Portugal is so famous for are a dime a dozen in Madeira.

Though don’t just expect a re-hash of your faves from Porto, Lisbon and other parts of the mainland. Madeira has a cuisine all its own. Most famously, it’s known for its seafood. Traditional (and at times a little unexpected) tuna and cod dishes are easy to find in restaurants, though keep your eyes peeled for the regional delight, black scabbardfish (espada preta). See if you can sample the classy Madeiran take on fish and chips using black scabbardfish. Quinta do Furao does it very well.

The ‘national dish’ of Madeira (if an autonomous region can have a ‘national dish’) would be espetada, large chunks of meat cooked on skewers with salt, garlic and bay leaves. For something a tad sweeter, expect to see plenty of banana and purple passionfruit on the menu. Trees for both can be spotted across the island, so you can expect high quality. One dish that might not be to everyone’s taste, though is a thin tomato and onion soup – with a poached egg served in the middle. Certainly worth a try!

4. Northern Madeira’s rural charm

The beautiful northern coast of Madeira (Shutterstock)

Southern areas of Madeira are known for their favourable weather (it tends to be a tad warmer) and picturesque villages. Ponta do Sol immediately springs to mind. In addition, it’s easy to reach Funchal, the capital.

Things feel much more rural in the north, unsurprising given that there are more locals living in the south. That doesn’t mean there isn’t plenty to do – far from it. Porto Moniz and its famous natural swimming pools, formed from lava, can be found in the north – as is some of the best whale watching off the Machico Marina.

Casas Típicas de Santana – traditional, triangle-shaped houses with thatched roofs, often painted in bright colours – can be found in Santana, a region not too far from Pico Ruvio. And tiny Prazeres, home to approximately 700 people, is well worth a visit for its peacefulness and the gorgeous views.

Locals in the north are just as warm and welcoming, though you may want to pick up a few Portuguese phrases to help you get around.

5. The potent poncha (and sweet wine)

Poncha – traditional drink of Madeira (Shutterstock)

Poncha! What a name for the local tipple, to start. Madeira’s must-try drink is mighty strong, made with aguardente de cana, a distilled drink made with sugar cane known for its 50% alcoholic volume. It’s also incredibly tart, with lashings of honey, lemon juice and sugar mixed in.

Its strength and sweetness make it easy to sip it down slowly. Do just that or else it’ll go straight to your head. If you can, try poncha at a traditional bar (look for locals, not tourists), which is often served with nuts.

Of course, if poncha punch sounds a little too intense, consider sampling Madeira’s sweet (but not nearly as strong) fortified wine instead. If you prefer a drier drink, wine from the mainland is readily available in bars and restaurants, too.

The trip

The author travelled with Discover Madeira, flew with easyJet (prices start from £24.99pp), staying at Pestana Quinta do Arco (from 57EUR per night) in the northern part of the island and Quintas das Vinhas (from 83EUR per night) in the south

Over 60s travel: The best trips for those with nothing but time

1. Explore the Galápagos in style

Land iguana on South Plaza Island (Shutterstock)

Explore the incredible Galápagos Islands in depth and in comfort on this 10-day adventure with Sunvil Traveller, eight days of which will be spent aboard the luxurious MV Galaven.

The MV Galaven is a 27-metre expedition vessel that carries 20 passengers, accommodated in double/twin cabins, all with private bathrooms and air-conditioning. Each day you’ll enjoy two excursions to the various islands and wildlife hot spots in the archipelago.

You’ll be accompanied by a highly qualified naturalist, keen to explain the wonders you will encounter. And, back on board at the end of the day,spacious outdoor seating areas await where you can enjoy alfresco dining as the sun sets.

Trip:Galápagos Adventure

Who:Sunvil Traveller

When: Flexible departures throughout the year

How long: 10 nights

How much: From £5,375 (exc. flights)

2. Experience luxury in South Africa

The vintage dining car on Rovos Rail (Shutterstock)

Wind your way through South Africa’s legendary wine, wildlife and history on this luxury rail journey from Cape Town to Kruger with Audley.

After discovering Cape Town’s history and culture on a private walking tour, you’ll spend a day wine tasting in the Cape Winelands and watching African penguins waddle up glorious sand beaches.

Then you’ll jump aboard the lavishly restored Rovos Rail train to Johannesburg. It’s a grand way to cross the continent of Africa, a step back to a time when the journey was just as enjoyable as the destination. It’s also a chance to visit some of South Africa’s little visited corners.

A one-hour flight from Johannesburg will take you to Sabi Sand Wildtuin, a private reserve bordering Kruger National Park, where luxurious tented accommodation andAfrica’s Big Five await.

Trip:Cape Town to Kruger: Luxury South African Rail Journey

Who:Audley

When: Flexible departures throughout the year

How long: 13 days

How much: From £8,970 (inc. flights)

3. Immerse yourself in Brazil’s wild side

Jaguar in Brazil’s Pantanal (Shutterstock)

Indulge your passion for wildlife on this journey through the tropical forest and vast wetlands of Brazil with Journey Latin America.

This nature-focused holiday concentrates on three places in Brazil where wildlife is most abundant and diverse. First up: Iguazú Falls, where you will step out of your hotel room to a symphony of birdsong and the thunderous roar of water.

Then you’ll head to the Pantanal, where you’ll explore vast wetlands that are home to jaguars, tapirs, alligators, and flocks of thousands of roseate spoonbills and hyacinth macaws.

Finally, explore Amazonia, where you’ll spend a week sailing along the black waters of Rio Negro spotting macaws, sloths and anacondas.

Trip:Brazil Wildlife: Iguazú, Pantanal And Amazon

Who:Journey Latin America

When: Flexible departures throughout the year

How long: 15 days

How much: From £5,440 (exc. flights)

4. Walk the vast Canadian Rockies

Moraine Lake, Banff National Park (Shutterstock)

Get ready to hike amongst some of the most dramatic and soul-stirring scenery in the world, on this moderate grade walking holiday in the Canadian Rockies with Ramblers.

Your holiday starts gently enough with a stroll around Vancouver and a walk along the famous Galloping Goose trail on Vancouver Island, including time for a bit of whalewatching. From here, the Rockies await, with a stop in Kamloops to walk amongst the alpine flowers.

Lastly, you’ll trek to Jasper National Park and a walk into the Valley of the Five Lakes. Expects glaciers, cable cars and mountain scenery renowned the world over for its beauty.

Trip:Walking In The Canadian Rockies

Who:Ramblers Walking Holidays

When: Jul & Sep

How long: 15 days

How much: From £3,899 (exc. flights)

5. Ride the Trans Siberian like a Tsar

Tsar’s Gold running beside Lake Baikal (Shutterstock)

It’s the Trans Sib, but not as you know it – a 16-day rail journey with Cox & Kings Travel that follows the route of the Trans-Siberian Railway, but using luxuriously appointed railways cars instead.

The Tsar’s Gold is most splendid, taking you from the majesty of the Red Square in Moscow to the Chinese capital, Beijing, in unimaginable style.

You’lltravel through the remote Russian steppes to the heart of Siberia and onwards to Mongolia in total comfort. Upgrade to the Bolshoi & Bolshoi Platinum Class cabin for a truly regal experience.

Trip:Trans-Siberian Railway Aboard The Tsar’s Gold: Moscow To Beijing

Who:Cox & Kings Travel

When: Flexible departures throughout the year

How long: 16 days

How much: From £6,890 (exc. flights)

6. Learn new skills in traditional Japan

Preparing green tea in Japan (Shutterstock)

Immerse yourself in Japan’s rural heart – and learn a few new skills as well – on this 17-day journey through Tokyo, Hakone and the Japanese Alps with Wexas Travel.

It’s a trip that will take the bright neon lights of Tokyo to the ancient towns and rural beauty of central Japan. You’ll stay in timber ryokan inns, complete with hot spring onsen and traditional meals, and explore lacquered shrines and forested national parks.

There’s much to learn. During the trip, you’ll study wooden castles in alpine towns, samurai quarters in historic cities, learn to cook soba noodles, and how to conduct a tea ceremony.

Trip:Tokyo, Hakone And The Japanese Alps

Who:Wexas Travel

When: Flexible departures throughout the year

How long: 17 days

How much: From £5,510 (inc. flights)

7. Cruise the Antarctica Peninsula in luxury

Gentoo penguin colony in Antartica (Shutterstock)

A cruise to Antarctica has long topped your bucket list, and now you have the time to do it – on this 16-day luxury cruise to the Great White Continent with Audley.

It’s the perfect way to experience Antarctica’s unique wildlife and scenery. You’ll travel in luxury on board, with a high proportion of staff to passengers, but still enjoy expedition-style landings.

From towering icebergs and vast penguin colonies to onboard spa facilities, this Antarctic cruise has it all.

Trip:Luxury Antarctica Peninsula cruise

Who:Audley

When: Departures Oct to Mar

How long: 16 days

How much: £12,495 (inc. flights)

8. Enjoy a gentle introduction to Oman

An old Omani man steering a boat in Wadi Shab (Shutterstock)

Fulfil your dreams of an Arabian Nights adventure without the bone-shaking 4WD expeditions, on this decidedly gentle introduction to the timeless charms of Oman with Holiday Architects.

Luckily, most of Oman can be seen from the comfort of a saloon car, including all of the capital, Muscat, the towns of the interior, and even the viewpoint over Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’, Wadi Ghul.

On this trip, you only need go off-road to explore the Wahiba Sands, a smooth, gentle off-roading experience with rewards as vast as the desert lying before you.

Trip:Gentle Oman

Who:Holiday Architects

When: Flexible departures Oct to Apr

How long: Eight days

How much: £1,845 (inc. flights)

9. Discover the gardens of Madeira

Botanical Garden Monte, Funchal, Madeira (Shutterstock)

Enjoy seven nights in the floral wonderland of Madeira on this delightful nature-focused holiday with Artisan Travel.

It’s a trip designed to take in the most colourful and interesting sights of Madeira. From its beautiful gardens and terraces to its winding walks and jagged mountains, you’ll explore by foot, boat and road to really experience the island’s sheer beauty.

A trip to Madeira wouldn’t be complete without walking along a levada, the small irrigation channels that transport water from the mountains. You walk two, each revealing spectacular views of the mountains, ravines and luscious forests.

Trip:Madeira – Portugal’s Garden Island

Who:Artisan Travel

When: Departures May to Oct

How long: Seven nights

How much: From £1,245 (exc. flights)

More amazing trips to explore:

24 spectacular expedition cruises around the world

9 of the world’s best wildlife tours

Luxury adventure travel: The 9 best tours and trips revealed

9 of the best things to do in Madeira

1. Make a splash with whales and dolphins

Dolphins swimming off the coast of Madeira (Dreamstime)

Head out on a RIB off the coast of Madeira, at any time of year, for almost guaranteed sightings of whales and dolphins.

There’s a good chance you’ll see the largest animal in the world, the sperm whale, diving nearby. Also on display is the fin whale, the second largest animal in the world, most likely to appear boat side during spring (March to May). Other species to look out for are groups of easily-spotted pilot whale and the high-spirited Bryde’s whale, most often seen splashing around with the dolphins during Spring.

Pull on a snorkel and jump overboard to swim with the smaller cetaceans. Along with playful spotted dolphins and wrongly-named common dolphins (arguably the most beautiful), if you’re lucky you may also be able to swim alongside the rarer rough toothed and Risso’s dolphins.

2. Be charmed by the leafy capital, Funchal

The famous Botanical Garden in Funchal (Dreamstime)

Backed by verdant mountains with its pockets of sculpted gardens and wild forests, leafy Funchal is enough to turn concrete capitals around the world green with envy.

The hillside Madeira Botanical Garden’s neat rows of primary-coloured plants stretch like an infinity pool above the blue ocean below. The nearby Palace Tropical Garden offers three layers of exotic plants entwined with art from all over the world. Thousands of Zimbabwean sculptures are housed here, along with a very special tile collection lined up along the walkways.

Get your culture fix at the sky-dominating Sé cathedral. It’s part brick-exposed, part white-washed exterior gives a modest first impression, but the bright gilded ceiling on the inside paints a much more magnificent picture.

Soak up the atmosphere of the island at the Farmer’s Market. Don’t be fooled by the name. Just as eye-catching as the bright fruit and vegetables on display is the architecture. Designed by João Rodrigues, Madeiran blue tiles decorate the stands and punters are shaded by the leafy plants above.

3. Follow a levada through a forest

Follow the Levada do Rei through the UNESCO-listed Laurissilva forest (Shutterstock)

Carving their way through the whole island are the historical levadas. These irrigation systems-turned-walking paths are a great way to explore all corners of the island by foot. There’s many to choose from, which will take you through a variety of landscapes, show off stunning sea views, and leave you at the foot of jaw-dropping waterfalls and on the edge of azure lagoons.

Waterfall lovers should opt for Levada das 25 Fontes, which will take you 1000 metres above sea level to a 100 metre-high Risco waterfall, merging and splitting into various streams as it works its way down the rock paths it’s etched out for itself.

If you only have time for one levada make it the Levada do Rei, winding its way through the UNESCO-listed Laurissilva forest. Dubbed Kings Levada, this is definitely a path fit for royalty. You’ll pass rugged cliff faces, a variety of plant life and will enjoy many species of birds, all under the shady green canopy of the largest surviving area of laurel forest in the world.

4. Step over the edge of Europe’s highest cliff

Dare to look down on Cabo Girão Skywalk (Shutterstock)

As if Europe’s highest cliff (and the second highest in the world) isn’t scary enough at 580 metres tall, Cabo Girão has been made even more thrilling than nature intended with the construction of the Skywalk.

After a steep 6km climb to the top you can step over the edge and onto the glass-bottomed platform, where the Atlantic ocean spits and froths far below your feet. Those brave enough to trust this vertigo-inducing floor will be rewarded with some of the most beautiful views on the island. The surrounding house-dotted cliffs cut a jagged line through the skyline before plunging into the sea below.

Once you’ve finished drinking in this view, catch the cable car back down to where you can feel the earth beneath your feet.

5. Experience an alternative angle by canyoning

Abseil down waterfalls and jump into lagoons on a canyoning adventure in Maderia (Shutterstock)

The rugged landscape of Madeira sets it up perfectly for a thrilling canyon adventure. Head to Paul de Serra and scramble over the bed walls of the Lageado river, to tackle abseils of up to 40 metres and daring jumps from 30 metres high.

Don’t forget to appreciate the beauty on your way down. With numerous waterfalls sparkling in the sun and crystal-clear lagoons reflecting the green of the rocks around them, with the turquoise of the sky up above, this is a unique way to see a different side to the natural world surrounding you.

6. Witness a cloud inversion from one of Madeira’s three peaks

The clouds falling below the peaks of Madeira’s highest peaks – Pico Ruivo, Pico do Areeiro and Pico das Torres (Shutterstock)

The highest peaks of Madeira – Pico Ruivo, Pico do Areeiro and Pico das Torres – offer unparalleled views of the island, and beyond.

Start with the smallest and easiest of the three, Pico do Areeiro. Right at the top viewpoint, you’ll see Curral das Freiras (Nun’s Valley) dwarfed by height, looking almost like a toy town. On a clear day, your eye will stretch as far as the nearby island of Porto Santo.

Take the rock-carved path that connects the third highest peak to the first, stopping in the middle to appreciate the view from the second highest, Pico das Torres. Dare to look down into the cauldrons lying between the surrounding mountains.

Continue along the heather-clad path to the most challenging, Pico Ruivo. Not only is it Madeira’s highest, but it’s the third highest peak in Portugal at 1862 metres tall. The difficult climb will be worth it when you realise the clouds are below you, covering the base of the mountains in a magical white mist, their jagged tops poking above, rising and dipping like castle turrets.

7. Enjoy a wine-themed picnic

The rolling vineyards of Madeira (Shutterstock)

You can’t go to Madeira without trying its famous fortified wine. Combine a wine tasting tour with an idyllic picnic in the vineyards, trying wine both traditional and more modern.

With vineyards rolling down the volcanic slopes, stopping just short of the sea, wherever you choose to set down your blanket and hamper, you’ll be surrounded by stunning scenery.

Sit between the rows of neatly growing grapes, enjoying a lunch made all the sweeter by the wines laid out for you. Learn more about the history, importance, production, and complexities of the most famous drink on the island from an expert as you sip.

8. Take a trip to Porto Santo

It’s easy to see why Porto Santo is nicknamed the golden island (Dreamstime)

Jump on a ferry and in just two and a half hours you’ll be looking back at Madeira from its smaller, quieter neighbour Porto Santo. This beautiful outpost isn’t nicknamed the golden island for nothing. With a 9km stretch of sun-kissed sand, Santo Porto offers the perfect place to relax after adventuring on Madeira.

If you’re not a beach lover, then this one isn’t for you. The coastline is really the only reason to come here. However, beach junkies will be in paradise. Warm your back on the golden sand or go for a swim in the warm waters, all in the shelter of the tree-speckled mountains.

For those that are seeking something more active, Santo Porto is a great jumping off point for diving. The warm waters draw a myriad of marine life, so keep your eyes peeled for cuttlefish, starfish and even octopus.

9. Relax in the natural volcanic swimming pools

The natural rock pools of Porto Moniz, Madeira (Dreamstime)

These are the rock pools of your childhood dreams. Formed by the very eruptions that created Madeira, the volcanic rock craters of Porto Moniz sit conveniently in the shallows of the sea, so you can easily clamber into the mineral-rich waters to cool off.

Lay back in the sun-heated pools, appreciating the view of the darker, deeper ocean just beyond the wall. Watch out for the waves, which will every so often send fresher, colder water crashing over the edge and into your own natural bath.

Explore more of Madeira…

Short break: Madeira, Portugal

Where: Atlantic Ocean, 1,000km south-west of mainland Portugal
Why: Dramatic scenery, good walking, mild climate
When: Year round

The cloud was both below and before me, laying like a thick fluffy rug. Roberto, my guide, was disappointed: “The view is normally amazing. That’s why I suggested we come so early.”

We started to drive on, but then the rug shifted a little, as if someone had tugged a corner, and a sliver of land and sea was revealed. Then, within a few minutes, we could see down to Funchal and the sparkling Atlantic Ocean beyond.

My initial impression of Madeira was that it was more developed than I’d expected. Yes, Funchal is charming, but scanning the city’s skyline for the Reid’s Palace Hotel – a local icon – I’d had to search among a sea of ugly developments. Outside the capital, I’d been startled by all the new tunnels and motorways; they may have speeded up travel across the island, but they also help explain why Madeira is millions of euros in debt.

However, after we left the main highway, things changed. We climbed through different stages of vegetation, from the lush and exotic, through forests of pine and eucalypt, to a rugged moorland plateau; up here the temperature was at least 10°C lower than by the sea. And all this in less than an hour.

I was starting to see how people could fall in love with Madeira. With its equable climate and genteel reputation, Madeira is often viewed as a rather staid destination; somewhere to go when you’re retired maybe. Meanwhile, despite a shortage of good beaches, it has also become a package-holiday choice. But there is much more to Madeira. The island is lush and fertile – nearly anything can grow here, and it is renowned for its botanical gardens. Yet rugged volcanic peaks rise out of all this fecundity, criss-crossed with ingenious irrigation channels known as levadas. Hiking trails follow the aqueducts, making Madeira great for walking, whatever your level of fitness and ability.

If walking isn’t your bag, there are plenty of other options. Madeira’s offshore waters are so deep that whales are often seen, while dolphins are spotted almost daily. On land, there are many villages and valleys to visit. Hire a car or taxi, or jump on a bus, though don’t try to see too much – Madeira may not be big (just 740 sq km) but its rugged topography means it can take a long time to get anywhere.

I continued my own explorations on horseback, following mountain trails from the Quinta do Riacho. Co-owner Paula is originally from mainland Portugal but has fallen for the home of her husband. And, as we sat on a hillside, looking out to the east coast, I could see why. “Every day is different here, the clouds and mist can change everything in minutes,” she said. “I just never get tired of these views.”

Top tip: top tipple

Try a glass of poncha: this local’s favourite cocktail is made with white rum, lemon juice
and honey.

Madeira day by day

Work up an appetite exploring historic Funchal, hiking the interior or taking to the water

Day 1: Explore Funchal

Explore the capital. Start in the centre, with a visit to the 15th-century Sé (cathedral). Then learn about Madeira’s famed fortified wine. Take the one-hour tour, with tastings, of Old Blandy’s Wine Lodge (Avda Arriaga 28) and drop in on the island’s smallest producer, Artur de Barros e Sousa (Rua dos Ferreiros 109), started in 1890 and now run by fourth-generation brothers.

In eastern Funchal, visit the Mercado dos Lavradores, the vibrant main market. Stroll down narrow Rua de Santa Maria, the oldest street in town, where many of the doors have been painted by artists as part of the Arte de Portas Abertas project. The street also has numerous cafés and restaurants; have lunch at Tasca Literária Dona Joana Rabo-de-Peixe (no 77) or return later for a beer.

Next, ride the cable-car over the rooftops to the suburb of Monte, once the summer retreat of Funchal’s wealthier residents. Today, most visitors come for the fine Monte Palace Tropical Gardens, with their historic tile panels and museum of African sculptures.

Nearby, the pretty white church of Nossa Senhora do Monte is a pilgrimage site, home to a statue of the Virgin Mary that is believed to work miracles. Deposed Austrian Emperor Karl I is buried here.

Take the cable-car back down or, for more of a thrill, opt for a ‘toboggan’ ride: drivers will steer you downhill in a wicker basket on wooden runners, their goat-skin boots the only brakes.

Day 2: Stroll the levadas

Get up early to head into the island’s rugged interior. Drive to the top of Pico do Arieiro (1,818m), the island’s third- highest point. From there, you’ll get splendid views of Madeira’s highest peak, Pico Ruivo (1,861m); it’s a 12km walk if you’re feeling energetic.

There are over 2,000km of levada paths so whatever your level of fitness and mobility there will be a walk for you. Invest in Landscapes of Madeira (Sunflower Books, £14), which features 100 walks. Take water, waterproofs and warm clothing, and tell someone where you’re going as conditions can change very quickly. Arrange taxis to pick you up and drop you off.

All that walking will have made you hungry. Take afternoon tea in the genteel surroundings of Reid’s Palace (book ahead) or save yourself for a slap-up meal back in Funchal. Popular dishes are espada (black scabbard fish served with banana), espetada (marinated beef served on skewers) and pão caseiro (sweet potato bread served with garlic). Wash it all down with local wine or a Coral beer.

Day 3: Dolphin swims and horse rides

Madeira is the largest island in an archipelago. If you’re hankering after sand, take a ferry to Porto Santo (2.5hrs) to spend the day on this quiet isle’s 9km-long beach.

Alternatively, take a boat trip around the Ilhas Desertas, three uninhabited islands, home to colonies of sea birds, monk seals and an array of marine life.

There’s a good chance of seeing dolphins, or possibly a whale, if you take any of the boat or catamaran trips from Funchal’s picturesque harbour. Standard boat trips offer
the chance to swim in beautiful bays (or even among dolphins); dedicated whale- and dolphin-watching trips have onboard naturalists. The best time of year to see sperm and Bryde’s whales is May-October; humpbacks are more common during the winter months.

If you do a morning boat trip, spend the afternoon seeing more of Madeira. The new roads mean it’s much easier to get to the small villages that dot the island. Try Santana, in the north – it’s touristy but has some fine traditional triangular houses.

Whether you’re an experienced horserider or not, you can take to the hills on the beautiful but gentle steeds of Quinta do Riacho. It’s run by a friendly English-speaking couple who will pick you up from your hotel if you have no transport. Rides follow levadas, wend through ancient laurel woodland and up hilltop trails, offering incredible views. And better still – you’re unlikely to see another soul.

Essential info

When to go: Mild year-round. Snow can fall in the mountains in winter; rain can fall any time. June is good: fine weather, fewer tourists.

Getting there: TAP Portugal flies Funchal-Gatwick direct from £115 one way. easyJet flies from Gatwick and Bristol. Flight time is 3hrs 45mins.
Getting around: Buses are plentiful, cheap and slow. Taxis with multi-lingual drivers cost around €100 a day. Tour companies offer guided trips. Or you can hire a car.
Where to stay: Reid’s Palace Hotel (Funchal) is an island icon; doubles from €315. Charming Quinta da Penha de França (Funchal) is built around an old manor, and has a newer sister hotel attached; doubles from €56.50. Quinta Mirabela (Funchal) is a boutique hotel; doubles from €60.
Where to eat: Restaurante do Forte (Funchal) is set in a 17th-century fortress. A Bica (Rua do Hospital, Funchal) is great value. Quinta do Furão, in the north-east, has superb local cuisine.
Further info: www.visitmadeira.pt.

Top Tip: Shopping

Good souvenirs to look out for include bottles of Madeira wine, embroidery, wickerwork, flowers and bolo de mel (honey cake).

Find out more about Madeira…