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Culture & Heritage

Short break: Newcastle, Northern Ireland

Lapped by the Irish Sea, shadowed by the Mourne Mountains and sprinkled with a little magic, Newcastle is the gem of County Down…

Alexandra Gregg
12 January 2015
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Essential info

Day 1: Explore the dunes

Catch an early flight to get to Belfast by brunchtime. Pick up a rental car and drive to Newcastle; it takes about 45 minutes, and for half of that time your periphery will be filled with mountain and sea views along the Mourne Coastal Route.

In Newcastle, stop in Donard car park and head onto Main Street to admire the peaks above, colourful buildings below. Head for the Annesley Building to see the town’s war memorial: a proud lion, with the Mournes behind. Just opposite the monument is Seasalt Deli, a great stop for an early lunch – try the chicken, ham, brie, stuffing and garlic-mayo sandwich.

From here it’s a 7km drive to Murlough – Ireland’s first nature reserve. This expanse of sand dunes, heather, bracken and fields is home to 23 species of butterfly – including the marsh fritillary – wild ponies and one of the most beautiful beaches in County Down. Follow the waymarked south end trail for a taster, then head off-piste – instead of turning back onto the trail from the beach, walk along a little further for the chance to spot hundreds of seals basking on Dundrum Bay.

For dinner, tuck into hearty, locally sourced grub at the Victorian-inspired Brunel’s.

Day 2: Hike the mountains

Fill up on breakfast, pack snacks and water, and head for the Mournes. While most walkers make a beeline for Slieve Donard or the Brandy Pad – a smugglers’ route from the sea through the mountains – instead do as the locals do. Head for Meelmore Lodge car park and make your way to the 586m peak of Slievenaglogh. Known as the ‘mountain of the stones’ you’ll cross heaps of hand-cut rock, all carefully quarried in the 19th century.

At the summit you’ll get your first glimpse of the Mourne Wall, a manmade stone barricade, running for 35km across 12 of the Mournes’ highest peaks. From here descend to the smugglers’ route, follow the ridge up Corragh and Commedagh, or tackle the distinctive Bearnagh. For an even more secluded trek, try rocky Doan via the Ott Track. From this peak you can see the Silent Valley and Ben Crom Dam; you can also venture down to Lough Shannagh, an untouched stretch of water with a peaceful, sandy beach. If you want a guide, try Loretto Coyle.

End a day with dinner at the Slieve Donard Resort. The restaurant isn’t cheap, but the food’s good and the hotel offers grand views of its namesake mountain.

Day 3: Hit the water

Use your last day to stay at sea-level. A former Victorian bathing town, Newcastle is home to the only seaweed bathhouse in the UK; at Soak you can take to a tub of slimy seaweed, which is collected fresh from the town’s shores daily. It may feel like sitting in salty gunge, but your skin will love it – especially if you suffer from eczema or psoriasis.

After lunch, take a RIB boat trip from Newcastle harbour with Clearsky Adventure Centre. You can spot seal colonies, stop off at pretty lighthouses and get great views of the Mournes merging into the water. Alternatively, Clearsky will also take you out on a RIB boat in Strangford Loch (40min drive) to spot common and grey seals, witness the low-tide whirlpools and hear the ‘gurgle gurgle’ of the sea caves at Ballyhornan Cliffs.

For dinner, sample the local catch at Mourne Seafood Bar. It sells fresh fish from day boats, as well as mussels, oysters and cockles from shellfish beds in Carlingford Lough. It’s the perfect way to end an action-packed short break.


Main image: View of the Mourne Mountains, Ireland (Shutterstock)

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