How to spend 48 hours in Jersey, Channel Islands

It was the unmistakable sound of metal on metal that confirmed to detectorists Reg Mead and Richard Miles that, after nearly 30 years of exploration, they had uncovered treasure in a field in Jersey: a hoard of nearly 70,000 late Iron Age and Roman coins. As it was removed from the ground, the two men knew they’d found something unique. It’s a feeling that is common to visitors in this corner of the English Channel.

History sits close to the surface on Jersey, a 120 sq km island that lies nearer to France than to England, where German gun placements and 14th-century ruins still glower across the sea and cows graze around Neolithic dolmens. This frontier land has witnessed prehistoric migrations, Napoleonic battles and occupation during the Second World War; it also still has the capacity to surprise. Proof of this lies in a visit to La Hougue Bie, one of the oldest buildings in the world, where you can now glimpse the coin horde uncovered by Reg and Richard in its museum.

It’s not just ancient history that you’ll find here. In capital St Helier, you’ll see nods to the island’s prolific shipbuilding past, an era when more than 800 vessels passed through the shipyards of St Aubin’s Bay. Elsewhere, Gorey’s fishermen once ventured as far as Newfoundland on trips that sometimes lasted years before they saw the village’s looming Mont Orgueil Castle once more.

With such a history of seafaring, it’s no shock that Jersey has a tale or two to tell. In Bouley Bay, for example, a monstrous black dog was reported to have haunted residents for years, although this particular story may be rooted in another aspect of the island’s maritime past, having likely been a cunning ruse by smugglers to avoid prying eyes.

Jersey’s shipbuilding industry may be gone, but one legacy of its seafaring history still present is the mingling of cultures that have filtered through its port down the centuries. While the modern-day equivalent of this is the foreign-accented financiers who spill into the bars of St Helier on Friday nights, pick a more bucolic setting for the evening and you might still catch the odd word of Jèrriais (Jersey’s old Norman dialect) as locals share their own tales of island life.

Here’s how to spend 48 hours in Jersey

Day 1

Start off at Grève de Lecq beach in the north; Colleen’s (01534 481420) is always popular, so get there early for a big breakfast. Next, head to the nearby barracks, which date from 1810; from there you can admire the Napoleonic-era Round Tower in the bay. You can also scan the horizon for dolphins playing off Les Pierres de Lecq from the terrace of the The Prince of Wales.

Now head to the ruined 14th-century Grosnez Castle, and then on to spy puffins (Mar–Aug) and German defences at nearby Plémont. Take a moment to think about the prisoners of war who built the walls and bunkers, then stroll the Five Mile Road to watch surfers and some of the biggest tides in the world. Stop off at the Jersey Wetland Centre for views of La Mare au Seigneur (SSI), a nature reserve home to more than 200 bird species, then follow the coast south to La Corbière lighthouse, first lit 150 years ago to guide sailors away from the wild Atlantic coast. Watch the sun go down from here, or better still, with dinner at the Corbière Phare restaurant and bar.

Day 2

Begin the day with a cuppa at Mad Mary’s (07797 724964) in serene Bouley Bay, near to where the naturalist and writer Gerald Durrell founded Jersey Zoo. In the island’s interior lie the War Tunnels, a Second World War-era underground hospital complex built under German occupation (1940–45) using forced labour; the exhibitions inside bring the lost voices of those who dug these passages to life. Nearby lies Le Moulin de Quétivel, a working mill that was built in the 18th century, although activity on this site traces back to 1309; buy some flour that has been milled onsite and then stroll the surrounding water meadows. Head further back in time at La Hougue Bie, site of a Neolithic passage grave (4,000–3,500 BC) that is one of the oldest buildings in the world and a museum housing the planet’s largest Celtic coin hoard. Above the grave sits a 16th-century Christian chapel. Finish back on the coast at the pastel-hued village of Rozel; the old fort next to the beach is now a beautiful private home. End your day by watching the fishing boats bob by as you tuck into the fare of the Hungry Man café.

Top things to do in Jersey

1. Hike the Jersey Coastal Path, a 77km circular ramble taking in Martello towers, beaches and sea views. If you prefer a shorter stroll, visit Val de la Mare Arboretum, a haven for trees from around the world that has a charming 4.5km circuit, or follow the Railway Walk (6.5km) along a disused line from St Aubin to Corbière. Details of all these routes can be found on jersey.com.

2. Learn about the history of the island. Jersey Heritage offers a Heritage Pass allowing access to four historic sites or museums for the price of three. Visit the towering Mont Orgueil castle, drop by a 15th-century farm estate or witness a 6,000-year-old dolmen while unpicking the story of Jersey.

3. Surf with those who know the tides. Grab a board out in St Ouen’s Bay under the guidance of a seasoned surfer from the Splash Surf Centre. The team offer private coaching as well as group lessons.

4. Drink a glass of wine at La Mare Wine Estate, Jersey’s only vineyard and distillery. If you join a tour (from £16.95), be sure to pick up a jar of black butter at the end to bring home.

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