More than anywhere else in Austria, Salzburg in winter is genuinely deserving of the words fairytale city – and its Unesco-listed old town centre is one of the most atmospheric settings for a Christmas market imaginable. The city of Mozart and gateway to stunning mountains and ski slopes, Salzburg is just the place to experience Austrian Lebensgefühl this winter – or at any time of year for that matter.
Visit the charming Christmas markets
There are several Christmas markets in Salzburg – but none match the Salzburg Christkindlmarkt. Held on the large Domplatz and Residenzplatz next to the cathedral, the Salzburg Christkindlmarkt includes around 100 stalls, selling everything from traditional Christmas decorations and handicrafts, to tasty cakes and biscuits, mulled wine and punch. There are choral performances on the squares themselves, recitals from the surrounding towers, readings for children, and boisterous Krampus parades. Salzburg Christkindlmarkt celebrated its 50th anniversary in 2024 – although the market’s origins go back to the 15th century. There are also several other Christmas markets in Salzburg, including the Hellbrunner Adventzauber in Hellbrunn Palace, and another one up in the Hohensalzburg Fortress. The St Leonhard Advent Market has stalls selling handicrafts from Austria, Bavaria and South Tyrol, along with carved wooden nativity figurines, glass and other Christmas decorations. All the proceeds from the St Leonhard Advent Market – over 90,000 euros annually – go to charity.
Listen to the music
Salzburg is a city of music – and no composer is linked more closely to its musical heritage than Mozart. Born in Salzburg in 1756, Mozart spent the early part of his life here (at least, when not touring Europe as a child prodigy with his father), and his birth house on Getreidegasse has been transformed into a museum. Towards the end of January (coinciding with the date of Mozart’s birth), the annual Mozart Week festival is one of the greatest celebrations of Mozart’s life and music, with superb concerts and recitals.
An essential part of Advent in Salzburg, is Salzburg Advent Singing, a programme of folk music and Alpine melodies sung by small vocal ensembles. The tradition began back in 1946, and has grown into one of the city’s most popular musical events. Finally, if you think of what is perhaps the best-known of all Christmas songs, ‘Silent Night’ – you’re also thinking of Salzburg. First performed on Christmas Eve in 1818, ‘Silent Night’ was written by the young Salzburg-born priest Joseph Mohr, with a melody composed by Franz Xaver Gruber. In 2011 it was inscribed on the Unesco list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Experience movie magic
60 years after the film’s original release, Salzburg is still very much alive with the Sound of Music. The film’s legacy in and around the city is still huge, and many of its iconic and still very recognisable filming locations are easily visited, either under your own steam or as part of a tour. Visit the Mirabell Palace and Gardens – one of the key locations of the iconic ‘Do-Re-Mi’ song. Domplatz, as well as the Pferdeschwemme (Horse’s Trough) and its fountains, appear during ‘My Favourite Things’, while the Residenzplatz features in ‘I Have Confidence in Me’. The gazebo at Hellbrunn Palace was the location for ‘Sixteen Going on Seventeen’, and the Felsenreitschule was the setting for the ‘Edelweiss’ performance. Outside the city, the slopes above Werfen were another ‘Do-Re-Mi’ location – equally beautiful when snow-dusted in winter, as they are when lush green – the Basilica in Mondsee is where the wedding scene was filmed, and the dramatic mountain scenery appearing in the film includes the Untersberg.
Cosy up inside traditional restaurants and cultural sites
Salzburg’s Unesco-listed old town centre is one of the best-preserved ensembles of Baroque architecture anywhere in the world, an unforgettable place which even after multiple visits, never loses its charm. In the DomQuartier, step away from the vibrant Christkindlmarkt with its carol singing and the scent of roasting chestnuts and mulled wine – and enter the hushed interior of its magnificent 17th century cathedral. Join a tour of the Residenz (home for centuries to Salzburg’s powerful Prince-Archbishops), with its lavishly decorated State Rooms, and explore the breathtaking art collection of the Residenzgalerie. Visit the Museum of Modern Art on the Mönchsberg, with its collection of 55,000 works from the 20th century to the present day. And discover the life and immense musical legacy of Mozart, at the outstanding museum in his birth house (Mozarts Geburtshaus). Last but very much not least, stop in at some of the many cosy restaurants dotted throughout the old town and beyond, not to mention a whole slew of landmark coffee houses, for delicious local cuisine and an authentic taste of Austria’s legendary hospitalty.
Head up in the snowy mountains
Salzburg in summer might just be Austria’s greatest place for a swim – but Salzburg in winter is the gateway to the great, snowy paradise of the Austrian Alps. Stunning snowshoe hikes, fabulous skiing, and relaxing winter walks all await in the surrounding mountains. The closest mountain to the city is Untersberg, with a cable car running up to 1,776m. However the best, and certainly the most extensive mountain area to escape the city for a winter hike, is Salzkammergut – a gorgeous sprawl of mountains with over 70 picturesque lakes, powdery snow and crystal clear mountain air. Salzkammergut lies just a short distance east of the city, and is easily reached by public transport (bus 150). Head for Schafberg above Wolfgangsee, with its mountain railway, and Zwölferhorn above pretty St Gilgen. Looking south, it’s just 90 minutes by train from Salzburg to the fantastic ski resort of Zell am See – and there are plenty of smaller resorts including the very family-friendly Lofer, in the Saalachtal. All of which goes to show that in Salzburg, culture and nature go hand in hand – whatever the season.
