How to discover the Flip Side of Florida in Jacksonville

When it comes to the city of Jacksonville, think about all you think you know about Florida, and then think again. Yes, it has the long stretches of white sand you’d expect to find in the Sunshine State, but it has wild barrier-island beaches and tranquil bays, too. It has an incredible food scene, but beyond casual oceanfront dining, you’ll find diverse neighbourhood tasting tours and farm-to-fork eateries fronted by award-winning chefs. And sure, it may be the perfect city for browsing Downtown galleries and upscale boutiques, but when you’re done, you’ll find parklands, waterways and ecological preserves to explore, too. Welcome to Jacksonville: the Flip Side of Florida.

It’s been proven that being in nature can lift our spirits and the phytoncides (organic compounds) released by trees can lower our levels of stress, which could explain why Jacksonville has a feel-good vibe you’ll notice as soon as you set foot in the city.

Located on Florida’s northeastern or First Coast, “Jax” has the most extensive urban park system in the USA, so you’re never far from green space and those mood-boosting miracles.

Around the city, there are 80,000 acres to explore, including the 46,000-acre Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve, one of the remaining unspoilt wetlands on the Atlantic Coast. Here, you can kayak or paddle board on the St. Johns River and bird spot on the salt marshes, or follow the paths once used by the Timucua, Native Americans who lived in northern Florida for thousands of years before the arrival of European explorers.

Visitors can also learn about the region’s colonial history with immersive exhibits and live reenactments at the Preserve’s Fort Caroline National Memorial or hike the eight kilometres of trails in the Theodore Roosevelt Area, a 600-acre forest and wetland sanctuary which is home to water birds, armadillos, gopher tortoises and racoons.

All within easy reach of Downtown, Jacksonville’s 35km of dazzling white sand are made for pleasure: you just need to decide if you’re looking for fun of the adventurous or relaxing kind. Along the public Atlantic-coast beaches of Neptune, Atlantic and Jacksonville, you’ll find kayaks and paddle boards for hire, and beach volleyball if you’re in the mood for making friends. Offshore, more than 100 artificial reefs wait to be explored, with summer the best time to dive among the wrecks and meet the marine life.

In Jax, surfing is a way of life and the city has a vibrant surf scene dating from the 1960s. Along the boardwalks you’ll find buzzy surf shops, board builders and laid-back cafés where you’ll be welcomed like a local, and when you’re ready to hit the waves, rent a board or sign up for a lesson from a pro.

With 1,770km of navigable water, Jacksonville has more shoreline than any other city in the nation, including 64km of the Intracoastal Waterway, a sheltered inland route which runs parallel to the Atlantic and offers relaxed boating and access to the St. Johns River.

And north of the city, unspoiled barrier island, Little Talbot Island State Park, offers dreamy, castaway days on the wonderfully wild Black Rock and Boneyard beaches.

After a day of watersports or hiking the reserves, you’ll need to restore your energy, so try Jacksonville’s “Trail Mix”, three self-guided trails on the Visit Jax app. The Jax Ale Trail takes you on a spin around the city’s incredible craft breweries, including Intuition Ale Works and the Aardwolf Brewing Co. If you prefer a sweet treat, hit the Jax Coffee & Donuts Trail and grab a cup of Joe at Bold Bean Coffee Roasters on Jacksonville Beach or try one of the artisan donuts at neighbourhood café, Good Dough, in historic San Marco. There’s a Mayport Shrimp Trail, too, and if you collect stamps as you go on each of the trails, you’ll win prizes for your check-ins.

The city’s foodie scene is thriving and whether you’re looking for a casual waterfront eatery for lunch, or an upscale dining experience for dinner, Jacksonville has you covered. The range of neighbourhood restaurants and international flavours on offer reflects the city’s proudly diverse community. You may be in the birthplace of the all-American classic, Burger King, but today you can dine around the world enjoying everything from Oaxacan tacos to French tarte flambée and Ecuadorian empanadas to Southern soul food.

In many cities in the USA, you’ll still need a car to see the sights, but one of the beauties of Jacksonville is that it’s wonderfully walkable. The city’s diverse neighbourhoods offer visitors the chance to mix it up and there’s never a dull day as you discover the easy-going surf towns of Atlantic, Neptune and Jacksonville Beach, or historic riverfront communities like San Marco and Ortega: each different, but all infused with Southern-style hospitality and charm.

Head to Southside to do a little boutique browsing and dining at one of the area’s exciting family-run multicultural eateries and take the free Skyway monorail to wander the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) in the vibrant Downtown hub of Laura Street.

In Mandarin, historically known for its orange groves, you’ll find ancient oak trees cloaked in swaying Spanish moss, restored mansions and riverside parks, perfect for a picnic or bicycle ride. Visit Brooklyn for the Saturday Riverside Arts Market (RAM) on the St. Johns River where you can meet more than 100 local farmers, makers and artists. And explore the neighbourhood’s Northbank Riverwalk walking and running trail before supporting the city’s arts scene and catching a live performance at the historic Friday Musicale.