Zanzibar

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Zanzibar

Zanzibar

Languishing just off mainland Tanzania in the turquoise-blue Indian Ocean, the island of Zanzibar conjures images of perfect, palm-swayed beaches, white sand, billowing sailing boats and smiling locals.

The jewel of Africa’s 3,500km Swahili Coast, Zanzibar was long a key hub on ancient trade routes: slaves, spices, ivory and more all passed through Zanzibar, bound from the continent for Arabia and beyond. This lead to Zanzibar becoming a cultural melting pot – still in evidence today, in the Omani-style buildings, in the polyglot Kiswahili language and the diverse dishes on the restaurant menus.

So understandably Zanzibar is popular, but away from the busy coastal resorts you can still find quiet coves, dense mangroves and traditional villages to fulfill your shipwreck fantasies.

Zanzibar is a Muslim island so dress appropriately – cover shoulders and upper legs. Ask permission before photographing people and don’t eat or drink in public during Ramadan.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Head out on a walking tour around the bazaars, Omani architecture and atmospheric alleys of Stone Town, the historic heart of Zanzibar
  2. Dive or snorkel the Indian Ocean reefs, looking out for turtles and whale sharks
  3. Interact with the islanders on a Jambiani Village Tour: scale coconut palms and meet the local ‘medicine man’
  4. Take an aromatic walk with a local guide on a spice plantation tour
  5. Delve into JozaniChwaka Bay National Park, Zanzibar’s only national park, to see mangrove swamps and colobus monkeys
  6. Sit back and relax with a Tusker beer on an idyllic Indian Ocean beach
  7. Sail out from Stone Town at sunset on a dhow (traditional sailing boat)

Latest Zanzibar articles

Spices should be bought fresh from the market rather than pre-packed in tourist shops. If diving/snorkelling do not touch or take any coral or creatures.

Capital
Zanzibar Town
Languages
Kiswahili, English
Population
1 million
Int. dial code
+255
Visa
Time zone
GMT+3
Voltage
240 V, 50 Hz
Currency
Tanzanian shilling (Tsh). Many lodges are priced in, and accept payment in, US dollars. Changing money in banks can incur high charges.

When to go

Temperatures on Zanzibar are warm year round, rarely dipping below 22°C, and peaking at around 32°C in January-February.

The dry seasons are late December to February and June to October, though even then afternoon thunderstorms are possible. There are few visitors in the rainy season, which means good deals are available at the places that remain open.

During Ramadan many shops and restaurants are shut. Christmas and Easter are popular with overseas visitors. The Festival of the Dhow Countries is held in Zanzibar Town in late June and early July.

International airports

Julius Nyerere International (DAR) 12km from Dar es Salaam, mainland Tanzania; Zanzibar International (ZNZ) 6km from Stone Town.

Getting around

Cars, dalla-dallas (local buses), motorcycles, bicycles and carts offer easy travel.

Small aircraft are the fastest mode of transport; they fly frequently between the mainland and larger islands. Passenger ferries run between Dar (mainland Tanzania) and Zanzibar.

Authentic dhow travel can be arranged cheaply at most harbours, though these vessels are often uncomfortable, with limited safety equipment. Luxury private yacht charters must be booked in advance.

Accommodation

There is a wide range of accommodation in Zanzibar – from cheap backpacker beach
bungalows to plush boutique hotels. There are no campsites. There are plenty of mid-range guesthouses; the better ones will have air-conditioning and en suite bathrooms. There are also large, mass-market resorts. Most types of accommodation will require payment in US dollars cash.

Food & drink

Zanzibar, the spice island, offers a mixed-culture cuisine, with flavours borrowed from all over the world: expect samoas, Chinese noodles, coconut-milk curries, Arabian specialities. Mangoes, in season, are delicious; other fruits include bananas, papayas and pineapples. Snacks include chapattis, mandazi (doughnuts) and maize cobs.

Seafood is profuse and excellent on Zanzibar – just make sure it’s fresh. Try pweza (octopus) with rice.

Meat, often skewered and grilled, is common but vegetarians should be able to find plenty to fill them, from cheese pizzas to veg curries.

Zanzibar is a Muslim island; alcohol is only readily available in Stone Town and tourist areas. Kilimanjaro and Tusker are the most common lagers. Wine is generally South African. Chai (tea) is the local drink of choice.

Health & safety

Malaria is a risk – prophylaxis is essential. Other recommended vaccines are tetanus, hepatitis A, typhoid and meningitis; check with your GP before travelling. Take a basic medical kit for treating insect bites, sun-stroke/dehydration and diarrhoea.

Divers should check scuba activity is covered by their travel insurance. Crime is relatively common in tourist areas. Be aware of opportunist pickpockets. Walking alone at night is not advised.

Nigeria

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Nigeria

Nigeria

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Capital
Abuja
Languages
English, Hausa, Yoruba, Igbo, Fulani
Population
140 million
Int. dial code
+234
Visa
Time zone
GMT+1
Voltage
240V 50Hz
Currency
Nigerian Naira NGN. Travellers cheques are not exchangeable in Nigeria. ATMs are becoming more popular, as are other credit card facilities, but you must take care against fraud.

Namibia

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Namibia

Namibia
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Namibia is vast – yet, at times, it seems as if nobody else is there. This huge nation in southern Africa has sweeping desert, deep canyons and 1,572km of coastline, but only a tiny population to fill it all. You can travel for miles without seeing a single person, but you may glimpse long-horned oryx amid the dunes, springbok sprinting by the roadside and baboons on the kerb.

Namibia is a spectacular conservation success story – it has the world’s largest population of cheetahs and free-roaming black rhinos, and growing numbers of lions. While the famed pans of Etosha National Park are a good bet for wildlife spotting, and accommodate self-drive safaris around its waterholes to spot lion, giraffe, elephant and more, most of the wildlife lies outside the park system and in community conservancies. Such has been the success of these conservancies that rhinos have been translocated out of the national parks and placed in the safekeeping of the communities.

But there’s more to Namibia than wildlife: float above the ancient Namib desert in a hot air balloon, careen down its dunes on a sandboard, visit the ghost town of Kolmanskop or visit community-run ‘Living Museums’ where the traditions, cultures and crafts of the country’s Indigenous Peoples are kept alive in remote rural communities who profit directly from your visit.  

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Climb the dunes and search for oryx amid the mighty dunes of Sossusvlei, in the Namib Desert
  2. Trek with mules into the twisting Fish River Canyon, the world’s second-biggest gorge
  3. Head out into the wilderness with Namibia’s Kalahari Bushmen
  4. Drive Namibia’s highlights – plan a circuit to take in Namibia’s best bits, including Etosha National Park, whale-watching off Swakopmund and the desert elephants of Damaraland
  5. Walk with wildlife in little-known Mundulea Wildlife Reserve
  6. Explore the German colonial town of Lüderitz and nearby Kolmanskop, an eerily deserted diamond-mining ghost town
Capital
Windhoek
Languages
English, Afrikaans, Oshiwambo, German, regional languages
Population
2.5 million
Int. dial code
+264
Visa
Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days
Time zone
UTC+1 (UTC+2 Oct-Apr)
Plug type
Type D and type M
Currency
Namibian Dollar (NAD). It is pegged to the South African rand, and is interchangable with it. Many lodges accept dollars. ATMS are not widespread – make sure you have enough cash on you when leaving a town.
Namibia travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office

When to go

Summer temperatures are high in Namibia, often exceeding 30°C; Namibia is especially hot and humid from December to February. During the Namibian winter, between the months of March and October, days remain warm but nights are cold; this is a pleasant time to visit so long as you bring bring layers for the evening.

Winter is also an ideal time to visit Namibia’s Etosha National Park – low rainfall means animals are easily spotted congregating around waterholes. Namibia’s capital, Windhoek, hosts its own Oktoberfest beer festival in October.

International airports

Windhoek Hosea Kutako International (WDH) lies 45km from Windhoek.

Getting around

Public transport is limited in Namibia. Trains are mostly for freight, buses are slow and don’t necessarily go to the spots popular with travellers. Namibia has a network of internal flights, which are helpful and pretty efficient for long journeys if you are short on time.

By far the best way to explore Namibia is to hire a car. In the main, Namibia’s roads are good – a few are tarmacked, most are packed gravel; unless you are going off the beaten track, a 2WD is sufficient. For any off-road desert explorations you must have a 4WD, and know how to drive it. Bear in mind that distances in Namibia are vast and petrol stations sparse – when you see one, fill up.

Accommodation

There is a wide range of accommodation in Namibia – you can pay peanuts to camp in the wilderness, several hundred dollars a night for the lap of luxury or somewhere in between for a government restcamp. Many farms offer a few guest rooms, too.

Health & safety

No specific jabs are required for Namibia, but a certificate proving vaccination from yellow fever is needed if you are arriving from an area where the disease is widespread.

The biggest danger comes from the sun, which remains strong throughout the year. Drink plenty of water and take a high-factor sunscreen.

The towns and cities are generally pretty safe, so long as you take the usual precautions.

Niger

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Niger

Niger

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Capital
Niamey
Languages
French, Huasa, Djerma
Population
15.8 million
Int. dial code
+227
Visa
Time zone
GMT+1
Voltage
220V 50Hz
Currency
West African Franc (CFA). There are no ATMs in Niger, and credit card facilities are very limited. It is best to use cash and travellers cheques only.
Niger travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office

Mozambique

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Mozambique

Mozambique

Mozambique is back. Once one of Africa’s most-visited destinations until civil war wiped the country off the tourist map, Mozambique is slowly resurrecting its costal resorts and game reserves.

Essentially two countries, Mozambique’s southern coastline is already popular with a few African holidaymakers while the north’s lack of infrastructure makes it an ideal choice for intrepid travellers keen to beat their own trail.

Southern Mozambique’s beautiful palm-lined beaches are wonderfully crowd-free and offer great snorkeling, diving and game fishing. Many are within a day’s drive of Johannesburg and are close to Mozambique’s national parks. The little-visited north has fewer highlights but Ilha do Moçambique and the island town of Ibo is definitely worth a look.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Go back in time on delightfully crumbling Ibo island, in the Quirimbas Archipelago
  2. Walk with lions (before everyone else does) in resurging Gorongosa National Park
  3. Go north to the marula-thatched huts, Makonde carvers and beautiful beaches around Pemba
  4. Go diving at unspoilt Two Mile Reef which teems which tiny coral fish and manta rays

Marrabenta is Mozambican dance music: try Soul Marrabenta by Mabulu.

Capital
Maputo
Languages
Portuguese plus more than 10 African languages
Population
21 million
Int. dial code
+258
Visa
Time zone
GMT+2
Voltage
220 AC, 50 Hz
Currency
Mozambique Metical (MTC). US dollars are widely accepted. There are ATMs and banks in all major cities; there are no banks in rural areas and on the islands.
Mozambique travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Mozambique tourism board
Mozambique tourism

When to go

The best time to visit is May to October, when it’s dry and temperatures are at their lowest. You can travel from November to January, but temperatures and humidity are considerably higher.

Avoid the height of the rainy season – February to April – as many roads become impassable. Also, resorts in the south are often overcrowded around Easter, Christmas and South African school holidays.

International airports

Maputo (MPM) 3km from the city; Beira (BEW) 13km from the city; Nampula (APL) 4km from the city.

Getting around

Distances are huge, so flying is the best option unless you have unlimited time. Frequent flights connect the major cities. Machibombo (coaches) run between major towns at least daily. Away from main routes, use chapa (converted lorries or minibuses) to get around. Both leave early in the morning and stop frequently. Cars can be hired in Maputo, Nampula and Beira.

Accommodation

Tourism in Mozambique is still developing and there are few Western-style hotels, particularly outside the established tourist destinations on the coast. Standards are not high but the prices can be. Look for signs that say pens?o (guesthouse), pousada (inn) complexo turistico (tourist compound), boma (camping pitch) and barraca (bivouac you can camp under).

Food & drink

Staples such as rice, cassava-based bread and chicken are often spiced with piri-piri (hot chilli sauce). Seafood is excellent – especially prawns and fresh fish. The local beers are 2M and Laurentina.

Health & safety

Ensure you’re immunised against typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria, polio and hepatitis A and B. Malaria is endemic; consult your doctor about the recommended prophylaxis. Drink purified water.

Guinea-Bissau

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Guinea-Bissau

Guinea Bissau

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Capital
Bissau
Languages
Portuguese, Crioulo
Population
1.5 million
Int. dial code
+245
Visa
if you’re travelling on a British Citizen passport you do not need a visa to enter Indonesia for visits of up to 30 days
Time zone
GMT
Voltage
220V 50Hz
Currency
Western African Franc (CFA). There are no ATMs in the country and credit cards are not accepted.
Guinea-Bissau travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office

Gambia

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Gambia

Gambia

It’s no wonder that The Gambia is so popular with winter holidaymakers. Friendly, tropical and peaceful, The Gambia is a short flight from Northern Europe and its costal resorts around Banjul are perfect for a lazy poolside break.

More intrepid travellers can head inland to find more classic West African landscapes. Cruise along the River Gambia to spot playful chimpanzees or basking hippos and trace the history of the slave trade at James Island.

Birders will be in seventh heaven at the Bao Bolon Wetland Reserve, a protected area of salt flats, marshland and wetland that is home to a huge number of species.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Stay at a bush lodge on the edge of the Makasutu Culture Forest
  2. Say hello to the chimps at the Chimpanzee Reserve
  3. Enjoy a Robinson Crusoe moment at Jinack Island – an unspoilt beach cut off from the mainland
  4. Munch on local produce at a lumo (country market)
  5. Get your money’s worth out of those binoculars at the Abuko Nature Reserve – home to wild birds, reptiles and monkeys
Capital
Banjul
Languages
Mandingo, Fula & English
Population
2.5 million
Int. dial code
+220
Visa
For visits of less than a month, you don’t need to get a visa before you travel
Time zone
GMT
Voltage
230 V
Currency
Gambian Dalasi GMD

When to go

Daytime temperatures average around 30°C year round. The dry season is mid-October to early June; this is also the main tourist season.

Manatees are found in the River Gambia National Park between February and June. They are frequently heard and sometimes seen. The best time for birdwatching is early in the dry season and early in the rainy season, when migrants arrive.

International airports

Banjul (BJL), 24km from the city.

Getting around

The Gambia has no trains and no internal flights. Most local people get around using the bush taxi, which can be a converted minibus, estate car, van or even cart in rural areas.

Hiring a Land Rover or bike is a fine way of getting around in your own sweet time and allows you to get off the beaten track.

Accommodation

Most travellers to The Gambia will have pre-arranged hotels booked as part of a package. However, it is possible to travel independently, providing you stay away from the resort hotels used by the tour operators.

There are a growing number of riverside ecolodges up country. At the budget end, there are a few tourist guesthouses and homestays. You’ll also find a YMCA hostel in Kanifing, near Serrekunda and an official campsite in Sukuta.

Food & drink

Tourist restaurants tend to be mediocre. For a more authentic experience, head to ‘chop shops’, street stalls or beach bars for some good honest grub. Look for anywhere busy with locals.

Gambian dishes to try include chicken yassa (chicken marinated with onion, lime, garlic and chilli), M’bahal rice (rice mixed with dried fish, groundnuts and peppers) and pate made from bonga, a local bony fish. Gambians also love afra – a local street-style version of the barbecue where you pick the raw meat and watch it be seasoned and sizzled over a hot grill while you wait.

Strict vegetarians will suffer as often even the rice is cooked in meat stock.

Health & safety

Malaria is prevalent; take prophylaxis, especially if visiting in the summer. Get medical advice on inoculations. You may need a yellow fever certificate – check before you go. Don’t drink the tap water.

Gabon

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Gabon

Gabon

Set on the equator, in western Central Africa, Gabon is stunningly beautiful and has the potential to be one of the world’s top destinations for ecotourism.

Currently, its oil and mineral reserves, combined with a small population, have helped Gabon become one of Africa’s wealthiest countries. But the late President Bongo realised his country was too dependent on its oil, so gave more than 10% of the country over to national parks in 2002, acknowledging that Gabon’s other natural resources could be key to its economic future.

This is a land of astonishing wildlife, including lowland gorillas and chimpanzees, while endangered turtles and whales ply its unspoilt Atlantic coast. It has fantastic potential for ecotourism and adventure travel, but still has a long way to go in terms of infrastructure.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Visit Loango National Park for its mix of coast and rainforest: humpback whales and turtles can be seen in season; elephants and hippos patrol the beaches; gorillas and chimps are sometimes seen.
  2. Lopé National Park has thousands of gorillas, with a research station, Mikongo, where you can stay. It is also famous for its huge troops of mandrills, with several hundred sometimes seen together, particularly in July and August.
  3. Bais are forest clearings where wildlife congregate. One of the best known, especially for its gorilla sightings, is Langoue Bai in Ivindo National Park. The park also has the stunning Mingouli waterfalls.
Capital
Libreville
Languages
French
Population
2.3 million
Int. dial code
+241
Visa
You will need a visa to visit Gabon. For full information on the visa application process, visit the website of the Gabonese Embassy in the UK.
Time zone
GMT+1
Voltage
220V
Currency
Central African CFA franc

When to go

Gabon is a year-round destination. Climate-wise it is hot and humid all year. The dry season is May to September, while December and January tend to be a mini dry season with very little rain. The wet seasons are February to April and October/November. Roads can become impassable during this time, however the parks remain open and offer good viewing.

Gorillas and chimps are most often seen from October to March when there is more food around and they don’t need to travel so far.

Four species of turtle, including leatherbacks, lay their eggs on the beaches from November to March. Humpback whales are seen off the coast from July to September/October.

International airports

Libreville Leon M’ba International (LBV), 12km from the city.

Getting around

There are very few sealed roads, so the most comfortable and quick option is to take internal flights or the Trans-Gabon train.

Buses do run between major centres and are very cheap. Car hire is available but you’ll need a 4WD if venturing out of town. Roads can be completely impassable in the rains.

Accommodation

International hotels can be found in Libreville and in Port Gentil, the centre for the oil and timber industries and so full of expats.

Accommodation in the national parks is rustic and comfortable but not yet anywhere near the standard you would get in East or Southern Africa.

Food & drink

The food has a strong French influence, with baguettes being the nearest thing to a national dish. Main meals tend to be barbecued/grilled meat or fish served with rice, potatoes, plantain or manioc. Bushmeat is widely eaten.

There is a range of international cuisine available in Libreville and Port Gentil, as well as imported French wines. Prices tend to be on the high side, even by European standards.

Vegetarians won’t find it the most interesting place to eat, with omelette being the usual dish offered. Fortunately there is plenty of fresh fruit.

Health & safety

A yellow fever certificate is mandatory, and spot checks take place at immigration. Take advice from a specialist travel clinic or your GP regarding antimalarials and immunisations. Drink bottled mineral water.

Ghana

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Ghana

Ghana

Once the hub of the West African slave trade, Ghana has shrugged off its shady past and now garners praise for being one of the continent’s friendliest and most stable countries.

What it lacks in natural wonders it makes up for with a rich history and an infectious joie de vivre – chaotic cities throb with colour, beaming locals dish out marriage proposals and life takes place against a backdrop of Afro-jazz rhythms.

While it can’t claim to have Africa’s best mountains, waterfalls or game viewing, it does have some noteworthy natural attractions. Battered castles overlook a raw coastline, elephants and monkeys roam the national parks, and twitchers will be in seventh heaven tracking some of the 750 bird species.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Come face to face with throngs of elephants at Mole National Park. With 90 species of mammal wandering its savannas, this is Ghana’s biggest and best wildlife hotspot.
  2. Experience the sensory overload that is Accra: whether you deem it scruffy and chaotic or lively and vibrant, you’ll be sure to have a strong reaction.
  3. Head to the beaches at Busua or Dixicove to partake in a spot of surfing or kick back with a coconut juice.
  4. Pay a visit to the castles and forts at Cape Coast and Elmina for a taste of the county’s slave heritage.
  5. Make sweet music with an African drumming lesson or get to grips with the local music scene and take in some highlife.
Capital
Accra
Languages
English, Asante, Ewe, others
Population
23.8 million
Int. dial code
+233
Visa
Time zone
GMT
Voltage
220 AC, 50 Hz
Currency
Ghana Cedi (GHS). British pounds, euros and US dollars are useful. ATMs are available in most towns and cities but aren’t always reliable. Guides should receive a tip. It’s not customary to leave tips in bars and restaurants but a small donation is always welcome.
Ghana travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Ghana tourism board
Ghana tourism

Take a sheet to sleep under as most places won’t provide you with one. Take your own toilet paper. Bear in mind that penalties for drug related crime are very harsh. Be aware: scams are commonplace

When to go

Tropical Ghana is hot year round with temperatures of around 30-35ºC. The drier north has one rainy season running from April to October whereas the more humid south gets rain from April to June and September to October.

The dry season between October and April is a good time to visit with lower humidity, less mosquitoes and easier travelling conditions. You’re also more likely to spot game and birds at this time of year although the Saharan winds in December and March bring poor visibility – bad news for hikers and bird watchers.

International airports

Kokota International Airport (ACC) in Accra.

Getting around

This is taxi country; in fact, the majority of Ghana’s vehicles seem to be cabs. There are both private and shared taxis, with private taxis charging a negotiable rate and shared cabs operating on an inexpensive fixed-fee basis. Buses are a safe, cheap and relatively reliable option. Tro-tros abound but they’re slow and nowhere near as safe as hopping on a bus.

Cycling is possible given the flat landscape but the far north and the far south offer the best terrain. Car hire is available and most of the country is now accessible by road. It’s worth noting that some rural roads are poor, there is barely any lighting and Ghanaian drivers are rather carefree. Driving after dark is not a great idea due to the risk of robbery and accidents.

Accommodation

If you’re looking to stay in Accra, Kumasi or one of the coastal resorts then you will be able to take your pick from a range of options – modern skyscrapers,  church hostels and friendly resthouses to name but a few. In the rest of the country hotels are generally simple but decent. Most, unless you pay rock-bottom prices, will offer air conditioning and en suites. Camping facilities are limited although sleeping under canvas may be a good option for those moving between remote parks.

Food & drink

Ghanaian food means spice. Lots of it. The adventurous cuisine evolved from tribal nosh and usually consists of something starchy and a spicy sauce or soup strewn with snails, meat, fish or wild mushrooms. Starchy staples include rice, fufu (mashed cassava, plantain or yam), banku (fermented corn/cassava dough) or kenkey (balls of fermented maize cooked in plantain leaves). Even the dessert sugar kenkey is eaten with a fiery pepper sauce. Red red (bean stew cooked in red palm oil) is another popular dish.

Snack-wise you’ll be spoiled for choice: fried plantain and fried yam is sold on the street, exotic fruits abound and the local chocolate is really quite good. Vegetarians can find it a struggle to eat well. Ice water, coconut juice and lager beer are widespread.

Health & safety

Ghana is relatively safe, especially compared to many other African countries. Armed robbery does sometimes occur in Accra and other urban areas – take the usual precautions and try to avoid travelling in taxis after dark. Tourists have fallen prey to theft and unwanted sexual advances on beaches, especially women. Swimming can be risky due to tides and undertows. Road travel can be dangerous.

Outside the main urban areas medical facilities leave a lot to be desired. Malaria and some water-borne diseases such as cholera are common. You should also guard against meningitis, tetanus, bilharzia and tickbite fever. About half of all visitors will suffer from some form of travellers’ diarrhoea.

Ethiopia

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Ethiopia

Ethiopia

Ethiopia is as colourful as it is diverse. While camels might stroll into town in Dire Dawa, Ethiopian wolves roam the countryside at Bale Mountains national park. Rock-hewn churches at Lalibela, underground tombs at Aksum and well-preserved castles in Gondar give testimony to Ethiopia’s heritage on the aptly named ‘historical circuit”.

The Danakil Depression is one of the most other-worldly sights in Ethiopia, with its lava lakes and colourful sulphurous pools, but high temperatures and a drop to -116m below sea level, make it one of the most strenuous places to visit. The wilderness of the Awash national park gives way to bustling market towns, while cars still haven’t replaced horse-drawn carts in the cities.

It is believed that coffee originated in Ethiopia, and to this day the preparation and consumption of coffee is an integral part of Ethiopian society.

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Wanderlust recommends

  1. Visit Aksum with its palace ruins, underground tombs and stelae; the city houses Ethiopia’s holiest shrine
  2. Get trekking in the Simien Mountains national park, which offers routes for casual strolls and weeks-long hiking. The park has a large variety of wildlife, and is the access to Africa’s forth-highest peak Ras Dashen (4620m).
  3. Wander among the 11 churches of Lalibela, which were cut straight from the rock at an altitude of 2630m.
  4. Harar’s walled old town invites travellers to get lost in its maze of 362 alleyways. At night, the last remaining hyena men feed the animals just outside the city walls, and brave visitors can have a go too.
  5. Delve into the Danakil Depression, the lowest place in Africa (-116m) and among the most inhospitable places on earth.
  6. Take a bath in the hot spring pools at Wondo Genet or hike through the forest for a glimpse of the Rift Valley and spotting various bids as well as baboons and hyenas.
  7. Stroll around the city of Gondar, nicknamed ‘Africa’s Camelot’ with its slightly surreal cluster of African castles and Italian cafés

Head towards the city of Bahar Dar and Lake Tana. It is Ethiopia’s largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile. There are 20 centuries-old monasteries on Lake Tana’s islands, and some such as Ura Kidane Meret, allow female visitors.

Capital
Addis Ababa
Languages
Amharic plus 70 other local dialects, but English is the most taught foreign language in schools
Population
85.2 million
Int. dial code
+251
Visa
Time zone
GMT+3. Note: Ethiopians use the 12-hour clock. Sunrise is at 12 o’clock (6am our time) and an hour later it’s 1 o’clock (7am).
Voltage
220V 50Hz AC
Currency
Ethiopian Birr (ETB). Credit cards are not widely accepted and banks difficult to locate outside of major towns. Take small dollar bills and change these into one birr notes.
Ethiopia travel advice
Foreign and Commonwealth Office
Ethiopia tourism board
Ethiopia tourism

Just a few kilometres down the road, the river plunges down the impressive Tis Isat waterfall, which is a particularly captivating sight during the wet season. Both the lake, and the walk around the waterfall make for good bird-watching excursions.

When to go

Ethiopia’s rainy season lasts from mid-June to mid-September. The best trekking weather is the dry season between October and March, with the country turning lush green just after the rains.

Consider coinciding your trip with one of Ethiopia’s colourful festivals such as Timkat (Epiphany, 19 January) or Meskel (the Finding of the True Cross, 27 September).

International airports

Bole International airport (ADD) in Addis Ababa.

Getting around

There is a regular domestic air service from Addis Ababa to other cities such as Aksum, Arba Minch, Bahar Dar, Dire Dawa, Gondar and Lalibela. The “historical circuit” is linked by the flight equivalent of a hop-on and off service.

Buses operate between all the major towns, but they are slow. For shorter routes and access to small villages, consider minibuses, shared taxis and truck services. Take a garis (horse-drawn cart) to get around town.

The Addis Ababa-Djibouti train stops at Dire Dawa and travels overnight, but the bus is swifter, and the scenery more varied.

Accommodation

Ethiopia offers many small but clean pensions and large mid-range hotels for travellers to stay at. Some hotels also allow camping on their grounds.

Food & drink

Ethiopia’s cuisine is generally spicy. Injera (a slightly bitter, pale pancake or wrap) is the base for most meals, and goes well with spicy food. The best known dishes include wat (stew) with either bege (lamb), bure (beef), figal (goat) or doroalicha wat is the slightly milder version. Kifto (lean mince) is a treat in Ethiopia, and comes either warm or cooked with lots of sauce.

Wednesday and Friday are traditional fasting days, and vegetarian meals such as messer (lentil curry) and shiro (chickpea purée) are easily prepared.

Health & safety

Altitude acclimatisation is essential. Travellers are also required to have a yellow fever certificate. The risk of catching malaria is high below 2,000m and HIV/Aids is widespread in Ethiopia. Swimming in Lake Tana is not recommended due to waterborne diseases.

Although Ethiopia is relatively safe, scams and “sob stories” are commonplace.