One week in winter: An unexpected Edinburgh itinerary

Edinburgh beguiles whatever the season, but winter is particularly fine in Auld Reekie. Snow lightly dusts the top of Calton Hill, an ice rink takes pride of place along George Street, and festive lights are hung all along Princes Street. But there’s much more besides, with unexpected sights and winter experiences to be found across all of the city’s eclectic neighbourhoods, which should tempt you not just to stay, but to stay different – amp up your trip from one or two nights to three or more. Be inspired by Wanderlust’s week-long itinerary, which includes the concept of split stays: Edinburgh is a city of contrasts, meaning you can enjoy different sides of it during your trip, such as historic and modern (visiting the Old Town and the New Town), culture and adventure (taking in galleries and climbing Arthur’s Seat), and calm and buzzing (breathing in the fresh air of the Pentlands by day, and diving into Leith’s nightlife afterwards). Winter in Edinburgh makes for a rich and memorable experience uniquely its own. Here’s how to do it….

Hogmanay and Christmas are glorious, but January to March is a brilliant time to really get under the skin of a capital bathed in smouldering sunrises and sunsets. Think getting coorie (Edinburgh’s own hygge). Think myriad things to do, see, eat and drink across Edinburgh’s eclectic neighbourhoods. It is when Scottish produce including venison and seafood is at its seasonal peak. It’s a time where the streets are less crowded, making for a more peaceful and personal experience. Burns Night beckons on January 25, and until March 2, you can catch the Drawing the Italian Renaissance at The King’s Gallery at Holyroodhouse, a brilliant art exhibition that showcases the likes of Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Titian.

Get up early to photograph the atmospheric haar, or morning mist, as it rolls in from the Firth of Forth to shroud the Old Town’s maze of cobbled streets and closes, and its Gothic and Georgian architecture. Start at the top of the Royal Mile to get the best view of the Castle, and get your steps in by walking all the way down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Take a tour of the King’s official residence in Edinburgh, strolling through rooms which were once home to the likes of Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie. Fortify yourself for a steep walk up Arthur’s Seat at the Palace cafe; at 251m high it’s the highest of Edinburgh’s famous ‘Seven Hills’, bathed in the Netflix romance of One Day. The views from here are peerless: a 360-degree panorama of the city, and out to the Firth, the Pentland Hills, and Duddingston Loch. After a warming butternut squash soup or hearty chicken, leek and Davidstow cheddar pie at the cosy Sheep Heid Inn, make your way up the less challenging Calton Hill to catch the early sunset, which starts from 3.30pm in December and January. Then toast the winter evening with cocktails at Café Calton, served with a view over the city’s historic skyline.

A morning of culture abounds with outstanding visual art. Don’t miss the City Art Centre on the edge of Princes Street Gardens, the National Galleries Scotland on the Mound – home to a huge collection of art from around the world and Scotland, alongside special exhibitions like the Turner exhibition which happens only in January every year – its neighbour the Royal Scottish Academy, which celebrates 50 years of artist and sculptor Andy Goldsworthy until 2 November, and Modern Two, on Belford Road, with an exhibition titled Resistance, a look at how protest shaped Britain, until 4 January 2026.

For lunch, descend to hip Stockbridge, brimming with delis and artisan bakers. On Sundays year-round there’s Stockbridge farmers’ market (cousin of the also excellent Grassmarket Saturday market). While away the afternoon in the bucolic wonderland of the Royal Botanic Gardens, which will be displaying a festive illuminated walking trail between 20 November and 30 December, and is perfect for peaceful winter walks throughout the whole season. Head back to Stockbridge for dinner at acclaimed newcomer The Captain Darling, and Scottish classics such as haggis croquettes, Cumbrae oysters, and braised beef shortrib.

Take a Lothian bus from central Edinburgh – the 29 goes from Princes Street – to Silverknowes Promenade. You’ve arrived at Cramond, an old and postcard-pretty fishing village which lies on the south shore of the River Forth, with a beach, harbour, shops, pubs and cafes. It’s the perfect place for a wintry coastal walk along the causeway to Cramond Island (tides permitting) where you’ll get good views of the Forth Bridges and spot seabirds. The number 47 bus takes you from the beach to Lauriston Castle, a beautifully-preserved Edwardian family home with an award-winning Japanese garden and tranquil woodland walks. Treat yourself to some sumptuous seafood for dinner; Scottish oysters and mussels are great to eat in winter, and arguably no-one does them better than The Ship on the Shore. If you’d rather tour the coastal neighbourhoods in more warmth and comfort, hop on a City Sightseeing bus tour, and go at your own pace.

Fancy an adrenalin rush to keep you warm if the temperature’s dropped? Head out west by number 70 bus from the Gyle Centre to Ratho, where you’ll find the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena. It’s Europe’s largest indoor climbing arena, featuring world-class climbing walls and boulders, competition-certified speed walls, and two separate bouldering rooms. For families, start gently with Clip ’n’ Climb, essentially a vertical playground with 15 different elements and 19 climbing routes, where an auto-belay lowers you gently to the ground if you lose your balance. Those seeking more of a thrill can do a climbing or bouldering session, with some walls reaching up to 30m high. For more adventure, head to the nearby Lost Shore Surf Resort to hit the waves at the largest inland surfing experience in Europe.

If you’d rather get your thrills from the endless reaches of the cosmos, take a trip to the Royal Observatory on Blackford Hill. They run public events throughout winter, from astronomy talks to stargazing.

Lothian’s excellent bus service will take you straight from the centre to the Pentland Hills, an iconic part of Edinburgh which looms over the southwest of the city. Take your pick from a network of hiking trails, and on a crisp, refreshing winter’s day you’ll see more birds and deer than people as you soar closer to nature. At Hillend, you can even pretend you’re on a skiing holiday, as this part of the Pentlands is home to the Midlothian Snowsports Centre, which features Britain’s longest artificial ski slopes and the first Alpine Coaster in Scotland. And yes, the Alpine Coaster is just as electrifying as it sounds; you’ll hurtle around a 980m-long track, with a vertical drop of 74m, at speeds of up to 28mph.

Head to the charming, residential neighbourhood of Bruntsfield, crammed with cafes and restaurants, for lunch or dinner; Hoi An does authentic Vietnamese, serving up steaming bowls of pho, while Tempo Perso is a friendly, family-run Italian known for their huge portions of handmade pasta. For the freshest fish and seafood, paired with an extensive list of wines, try Fin and Grape. Round off your evening with a good movie at one of Edinburgh’s brilliant and cosy independent cinemas, such as the Dominion in Morningside (best for blockbusters), or the Cameo in Tollcross (best for arthouse).

In less than an hour, you can swap Edinburgh’s city streets for castles, coastlines or country parks and have three different adventures in three different Lothians – the historic Scottish counties that surround Edinburgh – all without a car. East Lothian can be reached by the X7 from Princes Street as well as regular trains, and offers a mix of culture and nature; start at the National Museum of Flight, in North Berwick, located on the site of one of the UK’s best preserved WW2 airfields, with a collection of over 50 aircraft. At nearby Dirleton Castle, you can visit the remains of the 12^th century structure and its magnificent gardens, which feature the world’s longest herbaceous border.

Once you’re on North Berwicks windswept shore, head to the Scottish Seabird Centre, where you might spot anything from gannets to puffins. West Lothian is all about Linlithgow Palace (the medieval ruins of the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots) and lochside walks, as well as the family-friendly Almond Valley Heritage Centre, featuring farm animals, play areas and an interactive museum.

In Midlothian, visit the beautiful and enigmatic Rosslyn Chapel – which featured in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code – and spend a few hours at Dalkeith Country Park, brimming with hiking and cycling trails, the Fort Douglas Adventure Park, and the Restoration Yard Store, Restaurant and Wellbeing Studio.

There’s nothing better on a cold day than a leisurely session in a steamy sauna; head north to Granton, via the number 9 or 22 bus from Princes Street, to Soul Water, where you’ll find two handsome Siberian cedar saunas, set by the sea next to Granton Beach. Worked up an appetite? Stroll to The Pitt, a lively, year-round street food market, with stalls serving up everything from buttermilk chicken burgers to Nepalese momos, Lebanese flatbreads and Korean neep kimchi. Constrast this with a trip to fashionable Leith, which once functioned as Scotland’s main port, and is now home to organic wine bars (try Spry), Michelin-starred restaurants (such as Tom Kitchin’s The Kitchin), gin distilleries (like Lind and Lime) and creative hubs such as The Biscuit Factory. While it may be gentrified now, its edgy past still remains, which you can see on a Trainspotting walking tour, which takes in locations from Irvine Welsh’s novel, as well as the area’s street art and murals. And due to its position by the North Sea, you’ll find plenty of fish and seafood restaurants around here too, such as Fishers, The Lighthouse, and, closer to the city centre, Ondine – all great places to find seasonal oysters, mussels, langoustines.

So what are you waiting for? Stay different, this winter….