5 culinary experiences to try in Malta

Over the centuries, tiny Malta has been invaded and occupied many times, coveted for its strategic Mediterranean location and suitability as a hub for trade. Each of these incomers has left an indelible mark on the country’s cultural identity. Thus, its foodie traditions and signature dishes reflect the enduring influences of places such as Sicily, the Middle East, Spain, France and Britain. Get to know Malta’s unsung and diverse cuisine with these irresistible culinary experiences.

Viticulture in Malta has a long history; archaeological excavations provide evidence that it dates back to ancient times. Today, two indigenous cultivars Ġellewża (red) and Girgentina (white) grow alongside imported grape varieties. During a visit to a winery, learn about the processes involved in creating the wine and participate in a tasting. The family-run Marsovin Winery has been bottling wine made from cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc grapes for more than a century, while the vineyards of Ta’ Betta of Girgenti produce fine wines with the backdrop of medieval Mdina. Arrange a tour of the Marsovin cellars in Marsa to learn how its single-estate wines are made and aged in oak barrels. Delicata, founded in 1907, is a successful fourth-generation winemaker. Occasional tasting sessions are hosted at its base on the waterfront in Valletta’s Grand Harbour. These offer the chance to try a flight of award-winning wines from an extensive range that includes chardonnay, shiraz, merlot and syrah. Delicata also hosts an annual wine festival in the Upper Barrakka Gardens each August. On Gozo, visit the island’s two vineyards, Ta’Mena and Tal-Massar, to find out how suited its terroir is to wine production.

Unpick the secrets of Malta’s cuisine from some of its most passionate chefs. Taking a cooking class provides the ideal opportunity to learn a new skill and make new friends. The Mediterranean Culinary Academy, based within easy reach of Valletta and the north coast resorts in Naxxar, runs a programme of events aimed at promoting the country’s cuisine. Secure a place for “A Taste of Malta” and learn to make ravjul (Maltese ravioli filled with sheep’s cheese and tomato sauce) from scratch, covering every step from making the dough to plating up like a pro. Over on Gozo, Maldonado Bistro hosts weekly cooking classes every Tuesday from March to November. Participants first shop in Victoria, picking up provisions from a butcher or fishmonger, greengrocer and cheesemonger. Under expert tuition they transform these ingredients into a dish typical of the island. For those with a sweet tooth, book a workshop with an artisan chocolatier. Malta Chocolate Factory, based in Buġibba, offer a variety of classes in chocolate and truffle making, suitable for both adults and children.

In Valletta, visit Is-Suq tal-Belt on Triq il-Merkanti. This historic food market dates from 1861 and is an architectural beauty thanks to its interior ironwork and limestone façade. Heavily bombed during World War Two, it has recently undergone an extensive renovation. Today, market stalls selling fresh produce share the space with eateries serving up food from around the world. Inland, seek out the foodie-friendly Ta’Qali farmers’ market, which is held on Tuesdays and Saturdays. It’s a good place to pick up Maltese specialities directly from the makers. Sniff out bigilla (a dip made from mashed broad beans), Ġbejniet cheese, honey and freshly-baked bread. On Sundays, the fish market on Marsaxlokk’s charming quayside is a treat for early risers. The day’s catch is quickly snapped up by local buyers – often from nearby restaurants – who snap up moray eel, squid, octopus, tuna, swordfish and lampuki. The best of the fish is sold by mid-morning, though you can still browse for other items such as fig rolls and cannoli, bagged capers and spices, jams, honey and Gozitan salt.

Gozo’s mild climate and fertile soil have allowed agriculture to flourish. Figs, carob, almonds, artichokes, beans, capers and prickly pears represent a handful of the many crops harvested by Gozitan growers. Farm produce abounds: cheese, honey and olive oil are all made here, the processes intertwined with the island’s cultural heritage. Olives were introduced to Malta in Phoenician times; though Gozo doesn’t boast the country’s oldest groves, oil has been pressed here throughout its settled history. Gozitan salt has been harvested for a similar length of time. Traditional methods of production that date back centuries still exist today at the salt pans found along the coast. The island’s cheesemakers source sheep or goats’ milk to make small rounds of Ġbejniet, following family recipes passed down from generation to generation. Fresh tomatoes are the ideal accompaniment to create a simple yet delicious meal, particularly when heaped on ftira, Gozo’s answer to pizza. Alternatively, spread it thick with jam made with local fruits or honey scented with the thyme, eucalyptus or wildflowers that thrive in the Gozitan countryside.

Pastizzi are Malta’s most popular street food, diamond-shaped pastries that are buttery and indulgently calorific. No one is exactly sure of their origin, though they are likely to have their roots in the Middle East or North Africa. In Malta, pastizzi are documented at least as far back as 1603, when an unfortunate individual was prosecuted for consuming one filled with rabbit meat on a day when consumption of animal products was forbidden. Today, they’re typically stuffed with a ricotta-like cheese (pastizzi tal-irkotta) or peas (pastizzi tal-piżelli); chicken pastizzi are increasingly common. To ensure they are light and flaky, the dough is stretched and layered using copious amounts of fat so they puff up. The position of the fold in the pastry, whether down the middle or along the side, traditionally determines their contents. It’s possible to buy pastizzi all over the country at pastizzerijas, bakeries and market stalls. Among the most authentic are those made at Roger’s Bakery in Żejtun and Is-Serkin (Crystal Palace Bar) in Rabat; both establishments have been around for decades.