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A full city guide to Valletta

Valletta may be tiny but its incredible trove of architecture, food and cultural experiences belie its small size…

Dayna Camilleri Clarke
01 January 2024
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The Valletta city skyline (Shutterstock)
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Malta’s capital, Valletta (Il-Belt), is a vivid 1km by 600m peninsula surrounded by the sparkling cobalt Mediterranean Sea and encased in towering bastion walls. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, and former European Capital of Culture, it has undergone a remarkable 21st-century revitalisation over the last decade, blending its baroque heritage with modern luxury, new boutique hotels, and dynamic cultural attractions.

If you only do three things…

  • Upper Barakka Gardens (Visit Malta)
  • St John’s Co-Cathedral (Visit Malta)
  • Grandmaster’s Palace (Visit Malta)

1. Grand Master’s Palace

 

Dominating St. George’s Square, The Grand Master’s Palace, built by the Knights of St John between 1571 and 1580, was the first structure in the new capital. Originally the Grand Master’s residence, it later became the British Governor’s Palace and Malta’s first parliamentary seat. Heavily damaged in the Second World War, it was expertly restored and recently reopened. Today, it houses the Office of the President and boasts one of the world’s best armoury collections, along with Great Siege paintings and 18th-century French Gobelins tapestries.

 

2. St John’s Co-Cathedral

 

Though its exterior may seem austere, St John’s Co-Cathedral, built by the Knights of St John from 1573 to 1578, is a baroque treasure trove. Once inside, look up at Mattia Preti’s frescoes and look down to admire the marble patchwork of 375 Knights’ tombs. Explore the richly decorated walls with heraldic symbols and cherubs, and visit the Oratory to see Caravaggio’s “Beheading of St John the Baptist”, arguably his finest work.

 

3. Upper Barrakka Gardens

 

Don’t overlook this spot when exploring Valletta—especially if you’re arriving from the entrance behind the iconic Triton Fountain. Divided into the Upper and Lower sections, this verdant oasis dates back to 1560 and offers jaw-dropping views of the Grand Harbour. Top insider tip: Time your visit for noon to catch the dramatic gun salute from the battery, then use the tucked-away scenic lift for just 1 euro to glide down to the waterfront. It’s a fantastic shortcut and a must-see!

 

Gastronomic experiences in Valletta

  • Few places embody seafood better than Valletta (Visit Malta)
  • Noni is one of the capital’s best restaurants (Visit Malta)
  • Pastizzi is a classic street food in Valletta (Visit Malta)

Try Valletta’s street food

 

Beyond Malta’s famous pastizzi (savoury cheesecakes), explore Valletta’s street food scene by straying from Republic Street. Follow your nose to kiosks near the bus station, where the aroma of deep-fried imqaret (dates in pastry) beckons. Further in the city, Is-Suq – a lively global food hub – offers a feast of flavours. Stop by ‘Submarine’ on the way over, a tiny shop doorway towards the end of Zachary Street, where you can enjoy the Maltese classic ħobż biż–żejt: toasted ftira bread with tomato paste and tuna. Thirsty? Visit ‘The Pub,’ a historic watering hole where Oliver Reed had his final drink while filming Gladiator on the islands.

 

Experience the seafood

 

Nothing embodies the essence of Mediterranean cuisine more than the combination of sea breeze and freshly grilled seafood. Porticello, located by the waterside, offers this unique experience, along with a menu that includes aljotta (fish soup), pan-fried octopus, and a variety of seafood pasta dishes. Back in the centre, you’ll find Rubino, a culinary institution serving locals since 1906. Renowned for its ability to turn customers into fish enthusiasts, Rubino’s speciality is cooking locally caught fish like lampuki, meagre and seabass into mouth-watering dishes.

 

Sample fine dining in the capital

 

There’s no denying Valletta is flexing its muscles as a top foodie capital in Europe. It’s home to three Michelin-starred restaurants: Ion by Simon Rogan, with two stars; Noni, led by Jonathan Brincat; and Under Grain, helmed by MasterChef judge Victor Borg. Valletta’s dining scene is incredibly diverse, combining local flavours with international influences. Come the weekend, enjoy Friday night sundowners at Gracy’s Supper Club, where local Chef Alan Tabone serves his twist on Maltese cuisine up on the rooftop. Fancy a taste of local history? Make a beeline for afternoon tea at Caffe Cordina, a cherished spot since 1837, right next to the law courts.

 

Where to stay in Valletta

The Phoenicia is one of Valletta’s grandest hotels (Visit Malta)

The Phoenicia

 

From royalty to Hollywood’s elite, The Phoenicia is Malta’s grand dame, just outside the city gates. Constructed in 1939 for Lord and Lady Strickland, this iconic hotel transformed into a luxurious retreat after a multimillion-pound renovation, offering infinity pools and extensive manicured gardens. It blends art-deco elegance with modern comfort, captivating all who visit.

 

Iniala Harbour House

 

Owned by philanthropist Mark Weingard, Iniala offers stunning Grand Harbour views. Its 23 rooms, spread across four honey-hued townhouses, include an indoor pool, gym, spa, and access to a private yacht. The rooftop restaurant ION Harbour by Simon Rogan earned its second Michelin star in 2024. A veritable Tardis of luxury awaits

 

SU29

 

This contemporary boutique hotel offers a stylish retreat from the city’s rich past in the heart of Valletta’s historic bastion walls. With Philippe Starck furniture, art-lined walls, and a chic black-and-white marble reception, it merges forward-thinking design with comfort. Enjoy friendly service, an atmospheric bar, and close proximity to city life.

 

Three Hidden Gems in Valletta

The MUZA Art Museum is a comprehensive showcase of art and history (Visit Malta)

Casa Rocca Piccola

 

This sixteenth-century palace, a living museum and time capsule, offers a remarkable experience with over 50 rooms open for viewing. Built in 1580, it was one of Valletta’s first noble houses and was initially known as ‘Casa del Giardino’ for its garden. Still inhabited by the original owners’ descendants, it showcases exquisite furniture, silver, and paintings. The palace also features intriguing WWII-era tunnels, enhancing its historical allure.

 

MUZA Art Museum

 

MUZA is located in the historic Auberge d’Italie and presents Malta’s National Collection of Fine Arts. This 16th-century building houses a diverse collection of artworks, including Maltese and international pieces from the late medieval period to contemporary times. Highlights include neolithic sculptures, Maltese silverware, and fine furniture. Set in a picturesque area, a stone’s throw away from the Insta-famous St Lucia Street, MUZA offers a rich exploration of art and history.

 

Lascaris War Rooms

 

Hidden 150 feet beneath the Upper Barrakka Gardens, the Lascaris War Rooms are one of Malta’s best-kept WWII secrets. This underground network served as Britain’s War HQ in Malta, directing Mediterranean operations. Key features include the RAF Sector Fighter Control Room and Anti-aircraft Gun Operations Room. Used by Allied commanders during Operation Husky and later by NATO, the rooms are now restored and open to the public by Fondazzjoni Wirt Artna.

 

Feeling inspired?

For more information, head to the official VisitMalta website.
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