A guide to Malta’s Three Cities

On the southern side of Malta’s Grand Harbour, the often-overlooked towns of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua rival Valletta’s romance with their rugged charm. Recent tourist-friendly facelifts have turned them into a superyacht haven, where rapid redevelopment juxtaposes trendy eateries with ancient fishing shacks and shrapnel-scarred buildings, all while preserving the essence of everyday local life.

Three iconic experiences

If these walls could talk, they’d whisper tales of a chilling past. Built-in the 1530s, the Inquisitor’s Palace reveals a dark chapter of Malta’s history, where the Catholic Church enforced strict beliefs through confessions and torture. Local lore even hints at a mythical well of knives hidden within. Today, as a rare historical house museum housing Malta’s Museum of Ethnography, it uncovers the secrets of its grim legacy, including prison cells etched with desperate carvings, a poignant reminder of a bygone era.

The Rolling Geeks offer an unparalleled tour of the Three Cities, starting in Vittoriosa. This self-drive electric car adventure packs in top sights like Smart City, Malta Film Studios, Grand Harbour Marina, forts, churches, and impressive viewpoints. Experience Maltese culture firsthand with the freedom to explore at your own pace. Enjoy the fun and eco-friendly ride, complete with pre-programmed GPS narration in multiple languages. This is the ultimate way to discover the impressive Three Cities – an activity not to be missed!

Calling all seafarers, experience the charm of the Three Cities from a traditional dgħajsa (a boat akin to a Maltese gondola). Glide through the stunning Grand Harbour to Valletta, taking in the forts and historic architecture of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua. This serene journey offers picture-postcard views of Malta’s rich maritime history, perfect for an authentic, leisurely adventure. Embark at the marina in front of Birgu’s Maritime Museum or the waterside below Valletta’s Barrakka Gardens.

If the dgħajsa isn’t to your taste, you can easily reach the Three Cities by taking bus number 1 from Valletta’s main terminus. The journey takes approximately 25 minutes.

Take a deeper dive…

In Malta’s Grand Harbour, Vittoriosa (Birgu) is a city where ancient history and contemporary life coexist seamlessly. As the oldest of the Three Cities, its narrow streets burst to life in the mornings, when locals gather to chat over hot, flaky pastizzi ( savoury cheesecakes) that are as fresh as they are affordable, all washed down with a “te fit-tazza” (tea in a glass). Venture beyond the glossy marina into labyrinth-like streets to discover a community rich in tradition, where façades are adorned with small religious tableaux reflecting deep-rooted devotion.

The Church of St. Lawrence, a Baroque masterpiece, highlights the city’s artistic and religious heritage. Admire works by Stefano Erardi and Mattia Preti, including the dramatic altarpiece depicting the martyrdom of St. Lawrence. The church’s museum also showcases the Knights’ influential role in Malta’s history. Further down, Fort St. Angelo, perched on the harbour’s edge, offers a profound dive into the city’s military past. This fortress was crucial during the Knights of St. John’s defence against the Ottoman siege in 1565, with its ramparts providing panoramic views and tales of valour.

Never still, March brings Freedom Day with lively regattas and historical reenactments, while October’s Birgufest transforms the city into a glowing candle-lit wonderland. Whether enjoying fresh seafood at the waterfront or browsing the popular flea market on Sundays, Birgu reveals surprises and memorable moments at every corner.

The painterly light in Senglea’s streets makes a photographer out of everyone. To truly experience this charming city, head out early and meander through its narrow, winding alleys. As the city wakes and coffee pots start bubbling, the soft morning light transforms the streets into a photographer’s dream. Situated on a peninsula jutting into the Grand Harbour and facing Valletta, Senglea (or L-Isla) is the smallest of the Three Cities in Cottonera. This 16th-century marvel is encircled by impressive bastions that continue to guard the Grand Harbour as they did centuries ago.

Originally believed to be an island, Senglea was settled in the 14th century, and a church dedicated to St Julian was established in 1310. Renamed in honour of Grand Master Claude la Sengle, its fortifications played a crucial role in the 1565 Great Siege, earning it the title ‘Civitas Invicta’—the unconquered city. Explore Senglea’s ochre-stone streets, luxury boutique hotels, and cobbled alleys cascading down to the sea. Stroll past townhouses adorned with brightly coloured “gallariji” (ornate wooden balconies) and visit the Basilica of the Marija Bambina, known for its miraculous statue.

At the peninsula’s tip, you can revel in breathtaking views of the harbour from Gardjola Gardens and the iconic Gardjola watchtower. This beloved Maltese landmark, often referred to as the eyes and ears of the harbour, offers a perfect vantage point for watching the sunset. As the sun dips below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the waters, you’ll find it hard to imagine a more enchanting spot.

Cospicua, also known as Bormla, is a history lover’s paradise and offers a deeper dive into Malta’s layered past. As one of the Three Cities, it’s distinguished by its formidable fortifications: the Santa Margherita and Cottonera Lines. Built by the Order of Saint John in the 17th and 18th centuries, these monumental defences showcase military ingenuity and frame the city’s landscape.

Flanking the waterfront, the American University of Malta occupies historic dockyard buildings like the British Building (1840s) and the Knights’ Building (late 17th century). This fusion of contemporary education and centuries-old architecture exemplifies Cospicua’s medley of historical legacy and modern advancements. Situated in revitalized Dock 1, this area is linked to Senglea by a 40-metre steel bridge, inviting further exploration of the interconnected Three Cities.

With approximately 365 churches, Malta boasts (almost) one for every day of the year. Just a stone’s throw away, follow the harbour around, and you’ll find  Cospicua’s rich heritage further epitomised by the spectacular Collegiate Church of the Immaculate Conception (completed around 1730). Hungry? Before you leave, epicureans shouldn’t miss Le Poisson fish shop, tucked away in the backstreets. Here, fresh fish is displayed and cooked right before your eyes. Be warned: long queues of locals form early, and once the fish of the day is gone, you’ll have to “tipprova għada” (try tomorrow)!