Discovering Guyana, the Land of Six Peoples, through Georgetown’s culinary melting pot

Primarily known for its unspoilt rainforest, you’d be forgiven if Guyana was only on your radar for its exceptional natural experiences, from the unique birding scene to the jaw-dropping Kaiteur Falls. But in recent years, the foodie scene of Guyana’s capital, Georgetown, has been gaining increased recognition, drawing in visitors looking to discover more about the Land of Six Peoples through their stomachs.

The unique flavours of Guyanese cuisine are a reflection of the country’s rich cultural and racial diversity, born out of a complicated and problematic past. Indigenous Amerindians laid the foundations with staples like cassava and a heavy reliance on of the country’s bountiful seafood stocks, while African influences, brought by enslaved peoples, introduced techniques like slow cooking and ingredients such as okra. With the abolition of slavery and the arrival of Indian indentured labourers came vibrant spices and dishes such as curry and roti and Guyanese seven curry. Later, Chinese immigrants contributed fried rice and lo mein, while European colonisers left their mark with pastries, breads and European cooking techniques.

When tasting some of the country’s signature dishes, these seemingly disparate influences blend to create a culinary identity that is globally inspired but distinctly Guyanese. Wondering what to order and where to try it for yourself? Let’s dive right in…

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Traditional Guyanese dishes to try

Guyana’s culinary melting pot is perhaps epitomised by its national dish pepperpot, a rich and moreish dish slow-cooked with cassareep, a syrupy black condiment made from cassava. Also known as yuca, this starchy root is bitter and poisonous in its natural state and so must be grated and then stuffed into a flexible, cylindrical woven basket called a matapee, which the Amerindians have been using to strain the cassava (thus removing the prussic acid from the pulp) for centuries. The juice is then boiled and reduced until it becomes a syrup that both flavours and preserves the pepperpot (traditionally it would be left out and reheated over multiple days, getting tastier with each reheating). Mixed cow foot and oxtails traditionally used, delivering explosions of umami in the mouth. It is seasoned with wiri wiri chili for heat, as well as cinnamon, cloves and brown sugar for depth and richness. It’s often reserved for special occasions such as Christmas Day morning, but you’ll be tempted to declare every day a holiday after trying it.

Curry roti, influenced by Indian culinary traditions, is another must-try. This flatbread filled with spiced meats or vegetables is satisfying and flavourful. Seafood lovers will also find plenty to enjoy, from garlic crab to fresh-grilled snapper and grilled prawns the size of dinner plates. Indian influences can also be found in seven curry; another stalwart of the Guyanese culinary scene, traditionally served in a giant water lily leaf and consisting of seven different vegetarian curries.

The staples of the country like cassava and plantains are transformed into dishes like metemgee, a hearty coconut-based stew that’s both comforting and filling, and cook-up rice; a comforting one-pot meal of rice, vegetables and pigeon peas, cooked with coconut milk. For those with a sweet tooth, there’s also plenty on offer, with dishes such cassava pone, where the yuca or cassava root is as grated and mixed with coconut, spices, milk, and sugar then baked until golden-dark brown. Tropical fruits that are as much a feast for the eyes as the stomach, such as sapodilla, passion fruit, and star apple provide a fresh and healthier sweet alternative.

In a quiet Georgetown neighbourhood, the Backyard Café offers a unique and personal dining experience. Chef Delven Adams runs this welcoming spot, where meals are tailored to guests’ tastes and created with fresh, local ingredients. The menu changes frequently based on what’s available at the market, with a farm-to-table approach using only locally sourced ingredients. It’s the quality of those ingredients that really sings in Delven’s cooking, letting the flavours speak for themselves in unpretentious and utterly delicious dishes.

The beautiful garden setting, with only a few covers shrouded by tropical plants and festoon lighting feels like dining in a friend’s backyard, and Delven and his family soon make you feel right at home. Signature dishes include salt fish and bake, a simple yet flavourful breakfast staple, and metemgee, a hearty mix of root vegetables. As the menu changes daily to use the best produce in the market, you never know what you’re going to get, but you can be certain it will be appealing.

To go deeper on the historical and cultural context behind these plates, book in for a culinary tour with Eon John, locally known as the Singing Chef. He and his partner Jessica offer the chance to visit historic sites, learn how traditional foods like cassava bread are made, shop at local markets before making their supper and hear stories about the influences that shaped Guyana’s unique food scene (all with a side of singing).

We joined the Taste of Freedom tour, which gave fascinating insights into the slave rebellions through the 18th and 19th Centuries through to the abolition of slavery in 1938. Other tours led by Eon and Jessica include the Seven Curry Tour, which delves into the origins of this iconic dish and the East Indian heritage of Guyana.